Altima (SE, GXE, GX, I dont now the car is repaint)
2.4 L 4 Cyl. 206000Km
When I start, I hear the starter and the motor turning but it never start.
try to boost nothing better
I change gaz filter
Use test light check a lot of fuse all OK
I dont hear the 2 secondes prime gas pump
take out gaz pump relay. (the blue relay under the hood) I test it working
Got fire in coil and Sparkplug cable
I clean the distributor for oil leak, the rotor and cap.
After that I hear the Gaz pump and the car start.
the car start two time and next day dont want to start.
All electrical are fonctionnal (radio, blower, light, miror...)
I by the Haynes book but I dont now where to start now ?
The Knock Sensor is a secondary sensor which indicates there is something else going on with your car. So bascially don't replace the knock sensor its working fine.
Sounds like your starter is giving you the problems.
I had what sounds like exactly the same problem with my Bluebird (Japanese Altima) one morning. I too noticed the fuel pump was not priming which I thought was very strange, and in addition to this, it's kind of hard to explain, but although it definitely seemed to be cranking, it just didn't quite sound/felt right... like something wasn't quite engaging properly (it was cranking too easily or something). With my reasonably limited mechanical experience (and already running late for work at this stage) I tried all manner of things to get it started. After a couple hours of tinkering with everything I could think of I had almost given up but on a whim I finally managed to get it started, although I still don't know exactly what caused the problem.
It was after I noticed the strange nature of the cranking I just tried repeated flicking the ignition from off to start briefly to see if I could get a more normal crank. After about 10 short bursts on the starter it cranked distinctively differently, much more like normal, and then with my foot on the thottle I kept the starter turning over for about 15 seconds until the engine finally fired up with a cough and a splutter. It was obviously running quite rich for whatever reason and I had to keep the revs up quite high to keep it from stalling, and I noticed a rather large cloud of smoke had belched from the exhaust. After a minute or so I slowly eased off the throttle and the engine smoothed out to a normal idle, and it was like nothing had ever happened.
A similar problem cropped up a few months later, but I've made a habit of listening for the fuel pump and making sure it primes completely before attempting to start and as it stands the problem hasn't occurred since.
So I don't know if this is of any use to you at all, but I thought it's worth a mention.
nah, a knock sensor is just telling you that your motor is giving off too much vibration (knock). Its mainly there to let you know something is amiss.
Check your distributor, take the cap off, then remove the rotor and check the distributor thoroughly for any presence of oil. Its very common for the oil seals to let go and cover the sensor inside. It could be your problem.
Other than that I'd do some common maintenance items
Cap
Rotor
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Plugs (if you're over 70K miles)
Wires (if you're over 70k miles)
They're always a good idea. They might not help the "no start" condition but they could be worn down. Do the plugs especially if there is oil in the distributor. You'll have to replace the distributor if there is oil and the plugs will undoubtedly be fouled up.
I have the distributor, I get off the rotor and the plastic cap under the rotor and there is no oil. Is it possible fuel pmp working intermittent ?
I recharge the battery car.
I found on the net there is sometime problem with relay harness blue and green.
I know my relay is okay butis it possible the connector under the hood is defect ?
Do as Darktide said..
Remove the pastic cap on the distributor inside you'll see and encoder wheel and sensor. DON'T TOUCH IT. If there is oil present in that area you found the source of your problems.
I had to do this twice before, unplug wire, take distributor cap and rotor out, unclip the other plastic cap. I could see the wheel and sensor, I cleaned that place even if there was no oil.
Its done and there is no oil.
This just happened to me..Where the enigine would turn and what ever and it happend to be the whole ignition distributor had to be replaced...the whole distributor cost about 250 to 350 dollars.
I'm gone a do that and see if it start.
Somebody teel that I have to do the timing after I change the distributor. Really ?
With -5 C° outside it will be very fun
I'm gone a do that and see if it start.
Somebody teel that I have to do the timing after I change the distributor. Really ?
With -5 C° outside it will be very fun
Hang on, before you replace the distributor, I'd absolutley make sure that the problem, because of the cost.
I discover someting new with my problem, I plug my test light directly to the gas pump conector and there electricity when i turn the key to ON position. Even if something else could stop the pump, I think I got my problem
altima 1995 wont start
Linear Mode
