My check engine light came on after putting in my new reverse glow guages, so I went about resetting my ecu and getting rid of the codes as I read on other forums. Then the light came on again after the tranny had a weird problem and got first gear mixed up with neutral somehow??? I went to autozone to get it read, but they could not do it because its OBD-I they only had OBD-II. When I got home I got the code off the ECU after having the issue with the tranny earlier. This is the code that I got when reseted my ecu.
Check engine light blinked: 3 times slow... 4 times fast... 10 slow... 5 fast.
Someone on the other forums said that it was knock sensor and EGR solenoid valve, is this true?
I told my mom that I would use my tax money to get the tranny rebuilt instead of buying a tsudo exhaust and other goodies, but she was like "no,no... if it ain't broke don't fix it."
How long to do you think it will last until completely going out?
My check engine light came on after putting in my new reverse glow guages, so I went about resetting my ecu and getting rid of the codes as I read on other forums. Then the light came on again after the tranny had a weird problem and got first gear mixed up with neutral somehow??? I went to autozone to get it read, but they could not do it because its OBD-I they only had OBD-II. When I got home I got the code off the ECU after having the issue with the tranny earlier. This is the code that I got when reseted my ecu.
Check engine light blinked: 3 times slow... 4 times fast... 10 slow... 5 fast.
Someone on the other forums said that it was knock sensor and EGR solenoid valve, is this true?
I told my mom that I would use my tax money to get the tranny rebuilt instead of buying a tsudo exhaust and other goodies, but she was like "no,no... if it ain't broke don't fix it."
How long to do you think it will last until completely going out?
Yup its the EGR sol. and knock sensor. Replace the solenoid, then reset the codes and see what happens before you replace the knock sensor. The EGR sol. is pretty easy to replace and great access to the component.
So you don't think this could be caused from me messing around with the guages? Or the tranny acting up?
Also... could the gas smell coming from the engine be related to the EGR solenoid?
I don't think you putting in reverse glow plugs in will cause the EGR sol. to act up. However, the EGR might cause a knock sensor issue. thats why I suggest you replace the EGR sol. first then reset the ECU and see if the egine light comes back on.
For diagnostic code 105, the ECU tests for electrical current flow through the EGR solenoid valve. That means that the problem is electrical in nature; you are missing power to the EGR solenoid valve harness, there is an open in the harness, the solenoid coil itself is electrically open, or the ECU isn't providing a control voltage.
You should first check for power at the EGR solenoid harness. You can also test the EGR solenoid valve by providing direct battery power to the electrical terminals while listening for solenoid clicks while connecting and disconnecting power.
Replacing the EGR solenoid is cheap and easy. So a shotgun approach isn't costly. But ultimately, you should try locating the source of the problem.
For diagnostic code 105, the ECU tests for electrical current flow through the EGR solenoid valve. That means that the problem is electrical in nature; you are missing power to the EGR solenoid valve harness, there is an open in the harness, the solenoid coil itself is electrically open, or the ECU isn't providing a control voltage.
You should first check for power at the EGR solenoid harness. You can also test the EGR solenoid valve by providing direct battery power to the electrical terminals while listening for solenoid clicks while connecting and disconnecting power.
Replacing the EGR solenoid is cheap and easy. So a shotgun approach isn't costly. But ultimately, you should try locating the source of the problem.
Ok... So I can use one of those power testers, and hook it to the positive leading to the solenoid? Iam confused.
It might help if I knew what the solenoid and the knock sensor looked like, anyone have any pics, or can tell me where it is at. Also can you tell me where I can pick up a solenoid for pretty cheap, I looked on Autozone's site, and couldnt find one.
Ok... So I can use one of those power testers, and hook it to the positive leading to the solenoid? Iam confused.
It might help if I knew what the solenoid and the knock sensor looked like, anyone have any pics, or can tell me where it is at. Also can you tell me where I can pick up a solenoid for pretty cheap, I looked on Autozone's site, and couldnt find one.
It's described in the Haynes manual - might even be a repair guide on Autozones site for it - check there in the repair guides.
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Replacing the EGR solenoid is cheap and easy. So a shotgun approach isn't costly.
I looked at Autozone, and could'nt find the Solenoid, just the EGR valve which is $103. Where can I buy the solenoid, or do I have to buy the whole valve?
????? I went out to test the power on the EGR, but I coulnt find where to test it. I seen a plastic clip connector with some wires going into it, looked like a solenoid, and I wiggled it around a bit and couldnt get it off, so I started the car up, and the check engine light was out, so I turned the car off after letting it run and started it up again and the check engine light still didnt come on, so I took it for a test drive down the road and back, and shut it off and turned it back on, the light never did come back on!? Maybe the wires came loose, and I put them back in place or something?
Looking from the front of the engine, to the right of the EGR valve is the control valve and the black plastic thing on top is the EGR and Canister control solenoid valve. It has a round cap sticking out toward the front, several vacuum hoses and a connector with Green/Yellow and Light Green wires. Try clearing the codes and watch for any further CEL. It is possible that the connector was loose.
Troy
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SHIFT_Happiness
1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
I recommend getting a couple of feet of silicone hose to replace all the rubber hose in that area. It resists heat better and will never crack.
Troy
__________________
SHIFT_Happiness
1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
will do! Also, my dad thinks he saw a split vacuum line. So we will check on that tomorrow.
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