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post #1 of 18 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Light on

I have 97 Nissan Altima, it has engine light on when I went to Auto Zone for diagnosis they gave me OBDII Code P0141. I searched the web and found out it is for "Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1"
What exactly it means? Is it for O2 sensor? If I replace O2 sensor will the light be reset automatically? Please help.
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post #2 of 18 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bocondo
I have 97 Nissan Altima, it has engine light on when I went to Auto Zone for diagnosis they gave me OBDII Code P0141. I searched the web and found out it is for "Rear H02S Heater, Bank 1"
What exactly it means? Is it for O2 sensor? If I replace O2 sensor will the light be reset automatically? Please help.
Yup its the O2 sensor that needs replacing. You'll have to clear out the codes. If you don't have it eyt, purchase the haynes manual and it xplains on how to replace the O2 sensor and clear out the codes.

Frank
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post #3 of 18 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 04:00 PM
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P0141 is a malfunction in the rear oxygen sensor heater. The causes are either a poor connection or the oxygen sensor is defective.

Replacing the rear oxygen sensor is not difficult. It is located behind the catalytic converter, so the car must be put on jack stands. Disconnect the cable, unscrew the sensor using a socket made for the job, wipe anti-seize paste on the threads of the new sensor, screw it in and tighten it, replace the cable, done!
You can take it back to where you got the codes pulled and have them clear it out.

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post #4 of 18 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 04:30 PM
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Also, most aftermarket O2 sensor companies actually put the anti-seize compound on their for you. And please don't forget to not touch the "head" of the sensor, it normally messes it up a little. When taking the sensor out a wrench will work just fine, the O2 sensor socket isn't needed, (and if you want to make you own socket just use a proper sized socket and cut a strip down the side for the wire to go). I normally just use vice grips and a hammer :-D its normally stuck in their really good, you may want to pick up a can of PB BLaster and soak it the day before you do the job and then 5 minutes before the job and whack it with a hammer gently to loosen it. It should help you out a little. Good luck with it.
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post #5 of 18 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 04:54 PM
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so on the o2 sensor ,the braided steel cable thats connected to the sensor,mine is cut in half due to salt rust etc.do i replace the whole sensor?
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post #6 of 18 Old Dec 8th, 2005, 06:25 PM
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If the sensor is good just connect the wires back together. It'll save ya $100+
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post #7 of 18 Old Dec 9th, 2005, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jovanni
so on the o2 sensor ,the braided steel cable thats connected to the sensor,mine is cut in half due to salt rust etc.do i replace the whole sensor?

You can reattatch the connections if you want. I don't know how long that will last.
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post #8 of 18 Old Dec 11th, 2005, 03:21 PM
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If the connection is corroded it is time for a new one anyway. I recommend replacing the O2 sensor every 5 years or 60K miles to keep the car running at its optimum.

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post #9 of 18 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WATSON1
P0141 is a malfunction in the rear oxygen sensor heater. The causes are either a poor connection or the oxygen sensor is defective.

Replacing the rear oxygen sensor is not difficult. It is located behind the catalytic converter, so the car must be put on jack stands. Disconnect the cable, unscrew the sensor using a socket made for the job, wipe anti-seize paste on the threads of the new sensor, screw it in and tighten it, replace the cable, done!
You can take it back to where you got the codes pulled and have them clear it out.
Thanks for your reply, I did some more research and I don't think I can change the O2 sensor myself. Can someone recommend me good auto repair shop in North East Philadelphia, who can do good job?
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post #10 of 18 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 05:32 PM
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That's not the attitude to have... ask anyone on the forum... you can do it. Its really not too hard. That sensor in particular is easier than the front O2 sensor. Just pick up a pair of car ramps. Drive it up, toss down a tarp and give it a whirl... what do you honestly have to lose? And just remember.... if its snowing... its actually warmer outside than most days :-) that's the day I chose to take the engine out of my trans am last year... it was a nice blizzard... but I got it out :-D
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post #11 of 18 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 06:01 PM
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And just remember.... if its snowing... its actually warmer outside than most days :-) that's the day I chose to take the engine out of my trans am last year... it was a nice blizzard... but I got it out :-D
Spoken like a true denizen of the northland... well done
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post #12 of 18 Old Dec 21st, 2005, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darktide
That's not the attitude to have... ask anyone on the forum... you can do it. Its really not too hard. That sensor in particular is easier than the front O2 sensor. Just pick up a pair of car ramps. Drive it up, toss down a tarp and give it a whirl... what do you honestly have to lose? And just remember.... if its snowing... its actually warmer outside than most days :-) that's the day I chose to take the engine out of my trans am last year... it was a nice blizzard... but I got it out :-D
Thanks for word of advice, I was able to do it myself with the help of a friend, but the engine light is still on. How can I reset it? Will Autozone people will do it?
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post #13 of 18 Old Dec 21st, 2005, 06:16 PM
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Thanks for word of advice, I was able to do it myself with the help of a friend, but the engine light is still on. How can I reset it? Will Autozone people will do it?
Way to go boco!!

I think it's against policy for Autozone to clear codes but you can ask. Otherwise there are 3 ways you can do it. 1) Unplug your battery negative terminal overnight; 2) with the key on (engine not running) turn the diagnostic switch on the ECM full clockwise wait 2 secs then full counterclockwise wait a few seconds then repeat. 3) Just drive the car - it will clear on its own eventually if the problem is gone.
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post #14 of 18 Old Dec 21st, 2005, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gfriedman
Way to go boco!!

I think it's against policy for Autozone to clear codes but you can ask. Otherwise there are 3 ways you can do it. 1) Unplug your battery negative terminal overnight; 2) with the key on (engine not running) turn the diagnostic switch on the ECM full clockwise wait 2 secs then full counterclockwise wait a few seconds then repeat. 3) Just drive the car - it will clear on its own eventually if the problem is gone.
Cool... I am going to try the first thing to unplug the battery nagative for tonight and see what happens. I hope there is no more problems. Thanks a lot for your advice.
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post #15 of 18 Old Dec 22nd, 2005, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bocondo
Cool... I am going to try the first thing to unplug the battery nagative for tonight and see what happens. I hope there is no more problems. Thanks a lot for your advice.

Personally, I would reset the ECU using the screw on the side. In doing so you'll learn how to read the codes the next time something comes up, as to depend on someone doing it for you. Plus its much easier that disconnecting a battery terminal. If you have the Haynes book it demostrates on how to do this. If not, go out and buy it, its worth having, trust me.

happy holidays
Frank
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