I'm getting ready to do a oil change to my 1995 Hardbody extended cab. ( Has the VG30E engine in it)(oil type is SAE-30) The truck has 63001 miles. What are some good brands/type of oil to get? I was thinking of the high peak or high milage. The thing that confused me was, arnt you supposed to use high milage at like 75000 miles? I didnt know if it would be better to put it in early or what.
I like synthetic oil and have been happy with Mobile One. Walmart has it in a 5 quart jug at a decent price. It's probably more important to change frequently than the brand you use. Get a decent filter, like a Purolator. Fram sucks...
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2001 Pathfinder SE - Frankencar Intake, Dynomax Muffler, Transmission Cooler, Air Lifts, Rancho RSX17000 1976 Porsche 914 - My Mid-Engine Crisis Libertarian Party
If it was between these brands which should i get? Castrol, Havoline, Mobil Oil, Pennzoil, Quakersteak, Valvoline?
You only have a 3.5 qt sump on that motor so choice could be important here. Personally I have Syntec 0w-30 (German) in mine right now but that oil is getting harder to find. If you want dino juice and change every 3k the I would run 10w-30 in the following order (tailored to my tastes): Havoline, Castrol, Pennzoil. If it is a synthetic blend (not a bad idea mind you): Syntec Blend, Mobil 7500, Quaker State 4x4 blend. The high mileage oils are a great idea (better base oils and more additives) even if you are shy of the 75k milestone. I would use the following: maxlife, castrol, pennzoil. In a synthetic I would stay away from Mobil 1. I use it in my Trooper but it is on the thin side (10.0 cst) for a vehicle that old. The Maxlife Synthetic (5w or 10w) will work very well as will German Castrol 0w-30. Just my 2 cents here. Check out bobistheoilguy.com for more info about oil than you would ever want to know.
Agreed. bobistheoilguy.com Is a great site. Theoretically alternating oil brands every few changes will keep sludge from forming inside the motor because different oils have different detergent packages.
95Hardbody4x4, I'm a BITOG member and oil is one of my "things."
For moderate oil drain intervals of 4,000 or fewer miles, I like Chevron Supreme, Havoline and Pennzoil. All have top notch additive packages and you won't see lower wear from any other oil ... not Mobil 1, not Red Line, etc ...
OK, maybe Schaeffer.
Also, try using the search feature of this forum to find lots of good oil threads. Use words like "synthetic," "Pennzoil" and "Mobil."
I ended up just getting a 5 quart jug of Pennzoil 5w-30, and two one quart's of it also. So i can keep one in my cab just incase. The total was $15 and i also got a drip pan and a drink. So i'm guessing i got them at a good price
i dont believe in the brands making a big difference. i have always used the cheapest 5w-30 i can find usually at walmart for like $.89 per quart on my honda civic...and i got 193,000 miles on it, i just have always done oil changes at 2,500 mile intervals.
i mean all oil basically comes from the same plants
Jeremy102579: "I don't believe in the brands making a big difference. I have always used the cheapest 5w-30 I can find, usually at Walmart for like $.89 per quart on my honda Civic...and i got 193,000 miles on it, i just have always done oil changes at 2,500 mile intervals. I mean all oil basically comes from the same plants."
There IS a difference (lab-proven) between some brands of oils. Their base oil can be Group I, II or II+ (or a blend of these) and the additive packages are very different and can contain ZDDP, boron, antimony and/or molybdenum.
Valvoline All-Climate, for example, has had the skimpiest additive package of all the major brands for the past decade or more.
SuperTech is not a bad oil, actually. No SL or SM oil is "bad."
Chevron Supreme is one of the best ... despite the low, low cost ... because they don't advertise much. Using a spectro analysis, it appears the same as Pennzoil ... having a good dose of both moly and boron.
Depending on climate, 0-30 is a little thin for summer. 10-40 is what I use for FL summers or when I go on major highway commutes. I've had burnoff using 5-30, so that only goes in during the dead of MI winters. Most importantly: Buy a quality filter. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT buy an orange Fram filter. Of all the oil-filter studies I've read, Fram is consistently the worst. Purolator and Mobil 1 filters consistently get great ratings. I buy purolator because it's much cheaper than M1, and they're available at all Advance Autoparts stores.
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Mr. Pete
1997 Hardbody 4x4
1989 Prelude 2.0 Si
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