VG30E timing belt tension

95sev6 · May 17th, 2005, 06:01 PM

Hi all. Another newbie with more timing belt questions. This all concerns a '95 King Cab P/U with the VG30E engine. Bought it new and to this point, it's been rock solid and always dependable. I've always done most of my own work with no problem, but it recently passed the magical 105k mark and needed a timing belt so I went for it. Replaced the belt, tensioner, water pump and a bunch of hoses while I was at it. Got it all back together and running, but now the engines' got a low rumble from the front that is noticable from the cab when cold. Said noise almost goes away when the thing warms up and sounds to me like its timing belt/tension/tensioner related.

My question(s) concern the procedure for setting the belt tension listed in my POC Chilton's manual. Most of which I also found online at the Autozone website.

First they tell you to swing the tensioner fully clockwise and tighten it down, then install the new belt and align all the marks on the pulleys. No problem to this point! Then they tell you to swing the tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten it down. WTF? It was already "fully clockwise"!

After a few more gyrations they tell you to push the middle of the timing belt between the R. cam sprocket and tensioner with a force of 22 lbs. Got it, I used a spring scale for this. My question is how long are you supposed to hold the 22 lb. tension on the belt?

Now you loosen the tensioner nut, holding the tensioner steady. Next you run the .0138 x .500 in. feeler gauge between the belt and tensioner. While you're still holding 22 lb. tension on the belt?

Then finally tighten the tensioner locknut, and turn the crank to remove the feeler gauge.

Guess I don't have a good handle on what you're supposed to end up with here, but if all you want is the tensioner tight on the belt with a .0138 feeler gauge between them while holding 22 lbs. tension on the belt, why not just do that without all the gyrations listed in the procedure. Or am I just being dumb (I come by it naturally).

And last, Chilton's says that the rocker arms shafts MUST be loosened so the correct tension can be obtained. Any substance to that?

Sorry if this got a little long winded, just frustrated I guess. Hopefully some of you guru's that have done this a few times can help me out.

TIA!

95sev6 · May 17th, 2005, 09:02 PM

Latest on the timing belt...

I just pulled the front end back off the motor to check the tension. Seems loose; I could depress the belt about an inch between the two cam pulleys.

Checked the condition of all the pulleys, the new belt and new tensioner. All OK. I could slide a .0138 feeler gauge between the tensioner and the belt; also could easily turn the tensioner pulley by hand if all the slack was pulled to that side of the belt.

Think the noise was caused by a loose belt, but just exactly what is too loose or too tight? I want to get it right this time!

Your comments please...

**88pathoffroad** · May 18th, 2005, 01:21 AM

After everything's tightened down, you should have between 13-15 mm of deflection with 22 lbs of pressure pulling downward between the cam gears. That's about as simple as it gets.

lewisnc100 · May 18th, 2005, 08:30 AM

The steps you list would have left it pretty loose.

You don't keep 22lb. of tension on the belt, that is just a one time thing to remove any slack in the belt. After that when you insert the feeler gauge just keep pressure on the tensioner counter-clockwise against the feeler gauge and tighten the tensioner nut. Then you turn it at least 2 times and check the tension. If its off try again.

95sev6 · May 18th, 2005, 12:28 PM

Thanks guys, that tells me what I need to know. Sounds pretty simple as compared to what the book says.

**88pathoffroad** · May 18th, 2005, 12:58 PM

No. Putting the tension on the belt is NOT to remove slack, it is a standard of measure to make sure it's tensioned properly. I can post a scan from the FSM if you want.

lewisnc100 · May 18th, 2005, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88pathoffroad

No. Putting the tension on the belt is NOT to remove slack, it is a standard of measure to make sure it's tensioned properly. I can post a scan from the FSM if you want.

I'm reading directly from the FSM, you're talking about the belt deflection which is:

"Measure deflection of timing belt midway between camshaft pulleys while pushing with 98 N (10kg, 22lb) force. Belt deflection when engine is cold 13-15mm."

Reread his original post, what he asked about is this step:

"Push middle of timing belt between RH camshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley with a force of 98 N (10kg, 22lb)."

Testing deflection is between the camshaft pulleys, that last step is to remove slack from the belt right before setting final tension.

95sev6 · May 18th, 2005, 07:41 PM

Just got the engine back together and did a test drive. Everything's good and NO more funny noises! I set the tension by getting all the slack between the pass. side cam and the crank, then held the tensioner against the belt with the .0138 (I cheated and used a .014) feeler gauge in between. Tightened up the tensioner bolt and that's it. Guess I was reading too much between the lines in the Chilton's manual. Also replaced the cam seals and thermostat bypass hose while I had it apart.

One last question, which mark on the front pulley corresponds with 15 degrees BTDC? My engine has seven marks on the pulley and the POC Chilton's only shows the timing marks for the 4-banger, which only has 6 marks.

Again, thanks for all the help!

**88pathoffroad** · May 24th, 2005, 09:39 PM

The leftmost mark is TDC. Each mark to the right after that are increments of 5 degrees BTDC.

95sev6 · May 25th, 2005, 11:38 PM

I figured it was something like that; similiar to the ones on the 4-banger, but different. I set the timing between the fourth and fifth mark, so it's going to be advanced a couple of degrees. No pinging, I'll just leave it alone.

Again, thanks for everyones help!