Gas milage? - Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old May 10th, 2005, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Gas milage?

Just was wondering what kind of gas mileage everyone is getting on the 2.4L 4x4 5-speed nissan pickups? Im getting around 20 mpg mixed city/hwy driving.Would thought this would have better.
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post #2 of 17 Old May 10th, 2005, 11:36 PM
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Nope. You're lucky you don't have the V6, they get even less.

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post #3 of 17 Old Jun 1st, 2005, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Question improving gas milage?

What things can be dont to improve gas mileage? Ive already put on a K&N filter and going to synthetic fluids also. Whats the most someone has got out of the 2.4L 4x4 five-speed pick-ups?
post #4 of 17 Old Jun 1st, 2005, 09:54 PM
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i got a 95 6cyc auto and i get 15/18

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post #5 of 17 Old Jun 1st, 2005, 11:04 PM
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I put smaller tires on mine for the country road / highway driving i do to school and work. You'll trade MPH for RPM's and i run 3500-3700 at 75-80 on the freeway. went from the stock 235/75/15 to 205/60/15 and gained 2 mpg. Speedo is damn close and i got 24.975 MPG last week when i went to cleveland. 22.3-23.5 MPG mixed driving with a 600LB mower in the back. Use synthetic oils. I just changed to amsoil 600 miles ago and the KA24E loves it. If you use an oil filter with a drainback valve that startup rattle will go away. Synthetic oil in the tranny made a larger difference in mileage for me though. I live out in the country and still don't need or use the 4x4 except to keep the mechanism lubed up about once a month in the summer.

I'll photo the gas receipt and odomiter when i go on a trip this weekend.
post #6 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79kz400
I put smaller tires on mine for the country road / highway driving i do to school and work. You'll trade MPH for RPM's and i run 3500-3700 at 75-80 on the freeway. went from the stock 235/75/15 to 205/60/15 and gained 2 mpg. Speedo is damn close and i got 24.975 MPG last week when i went to cleveland.
Are you compensating for the increased miles on your odometer with the smaller tires? Your old tires turned 698 revs/mile and you new tires turn 817 revs/mile. If you're not compensating for tire size your 24.975 miles per gallon is really 21.34 miles per gallon.
post #7 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 09:45 AM
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Y'a know this occured to me about a week after i put the tires on and so i checked it by repeatedly driving past those police radar things that display your speed and i was perhaps 1MPH slow. The old tires were way off for some reason. My door jam calls for 235/75/15 and at 55 MPH the speedo read 50 MPH. So i flew out of columbus 2 weeks ago and got a yahoo map to the airport. One way my Odomiter read 85.2 miles and the map listed it as 80.6 miles. This does not account for the detour i took to avoid a closed road and the stop for fuel. I am filling up and driving to/from a destination and returning to the exact same pump for consistency. None of my friends have a GPS to calculate this exactly but that would be the only way to say for sure. Untill then i'm using the yahoo maps to get a general estimate of distance. i'll do it again when i drive to Ravenna this weekend.

My error the tires are 205/65/15 not 205/60/15
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.j...le+%231+NASCAR
Good math though. I wonder what percentage the Kumho 30x9.5 MT's will set my odomiter off when they come in.
post #8 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 11:11 AM
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Check out http://www.discountpartcenter.com/tirecalc.html to compare tire sizes.
post #9 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79kz400
I wonder what percentage the Kumho 30x9.5 MT's will set my odomiter off when they come in.
235/75-15 diameter = 28.9" so you should read 4% low on your odometer if when you go to 30" diameter tires.
post #10 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Was thinking that going to a taller tire would help get the rpms down. Id like to get 25mpg or little more if possible would be nice. Going to synthetic trans oil soon. Motor has 135k and ive heard not to change over to synthetic with that many miles. When I get time I will go ahead and put synthetic in rear differential also. What about changing the timing?

(Off subject question do the 4x4 2.4L pick-ups have the posi differential?)

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post #11 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nissan4x4
Was thinking that going to a taller tire would help get the rpms down.
True, a larger tire will keep your engine RPM down, but not help and may be actually hinder fuel mileage. The tires put the engine a greater mechanical disadvantage so even though the RPM are lower, the amount of fuel required to maintain that RPM is equal to or possibly greater than a higher RPM with stock tires.
post #12 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 09:04 PM
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i'll second that. In theory one would want the tallest, thinnest tire possible for the best fuel economyand lower engine revs. Reality shows us otherwise. only thing i don't like about the smaller tire is keeping up with traffic only to look down to find that i am at 4000 RPM's doing 90. My SE has posi and there's a sticker that calls for "LSD" oil only. I can't find anything suitable and should replace the pinion seal before i go to the synthetic because it leaks a little. Synthetic oil is very slippery and gets past seals that were holding back the old dino oil. i didn't get a new drain plug when i went to AMSoil and tiny ammounts are now seeping past the worn rubber washer. My motor dosn't leak any and so i'm hoping to get a year out of the oil. Just change the filter every 3K.
BTW: 107,xxx on mine and counting.

Oh and thanks 96r50 for the help with the math. I never bothered to calculate anything other than the fuel economy after i realized my speedo was reading properly. Could you please post the formula you used to calculate this?
post #13 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79kz400
Could you please post the formula you used to calculate this?
Tire circumference is Pi x D. A 31Ē tire is 31Ē x 3.14 = 97.34Ē.

12Ē = 1í so 97.34Ē/12Ē = 8.11í. For every revolution the car moves 8.11í.

5,280í = 1 mile so 5,280í/8.11í = 651 revolutions per mile.

For your stockers, 235 is the section width in mm. 75 is the percentage of the section width that is the side wall and 15 is the rim diameter in inches.

235mm x (75% x 2) = 235mm x 150% = 352.5 mm Remember that the diameter is side wall-rim-side wall. That is why the 75% is multiplied by 2.

1mm = 0.03937Ē so 352.55 x 0.03937Ē = 13.88Ē + 15Ē (rim) = 28.88Ē for the stock tire diameter. Following the formulas for the 31Ē tire the calculation is:

28.88Ē x 3.14 = 90.68Ē/12Ē = 7.56í per revolution. 5,280í/7.56í = 698.4 revolutions per mile.

698.4 (stock) / 651 (31Ē tire) = 1.07

For every mile clocked on the odometer you actually drove 1.07 miles. If you change your oil every 3,000 miles by the odometer the actual mileage is 3,000 miles x 1.07 = 3,210 miles.

Keep in mind that a 31Ē tire doesnít actually measure 31Ē and I suspect that a 235/75-15 isnít really 28.88Ē.
post #14 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 10:36 PM
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Nissan4x4:"What things can be dont to improve gas mileage?"

I wrote this essay a while back and post it from time to time:

Iíve always gotten better-than average mileage with my cars. I like the following tips pulled from my own driving experience:

1) Anticipating traffic is probably the biggest thing you can do to save gas, save wear and tear on your vehicle and be kindler to your passengers. If you find yourself tapping the brakes a lot in heavy traffic, you are following too close and/or driving too fast. Slow down, relax a little and pay more attention! That impenetrable pack of idiots ahead of you isnít going anywhere fast either. When things start to move again, take your time accelerating. Instead of going from zero to 45mph and then back to zero again a couple of seconds later, try leaving more space in front of you and pacing yourself better. Try to average a 25-30mph in that situation instead by leaving braking and accelerating space ahead of you. When driving a standard, try to maintain a pace that allows you to idle in first or second gear rather than constant starts and stops that waste gas, raise your blood pressure and heat up your brakes and clutch. People WILL jump into that space ahead of you once in a while. Thatís OK. DONíT let it upset you! Maintaining that cushion of space, youíve lost maybe 20 feet which is an insignificant amount of distance in 10-20+ mile trips. Remind yourself: Itís no big deal!

2) Tire pressures. I run my right at or near maximum and in 20+ years of driving, Iíve never had a problem doing this. Check and fill them when perfectly cold (first thing in the morning before the sun hit them) and adjust them as the seasons change. You just need to know that you will have a little less grip in most situations with the inflation this high. Running on a severely underinflated tire can feel like your parking brake is stuck on. Itís also very dangerous as the vehicle is more prone to blowing a tire. Also, skinnier rims and tires get better mileage than fatter ones because of less rolling resistance. Taller (greater circumference) rim and tire combos will effectively increase your final drive ratio and may boost fuel economy but this will throw off your speedometer by the same amount and might rub on the inside of your wheel wells. Experiment gradually and with caution.

3) Use thin (and/or synthetic) oils in your engine and tranny. These reduce drag which will save fuel. If you are concerned about wear, replace them a little more often than you normally would. This change alone can save around 3% or more. Donít go below the recommended weight for your engine Ö but donít go above it either unless you are willing to accept the penalty in lost mileage and power.

4) Replace your ignition components (spark plugs, wires, cap. etc Ö) using the shortest intervals recommended. Use good quality, high-performance (but not racing) brands. Use Platinum plugs only if your car calls for them. Iíve found a good, copper V- cut plugs (NGKs) to provide the best mileage, better than platinums. Donít waste your money on Splitfire plugs or other, similar gimmicks.

5) I get MUCH better mileage during heat waves (80-90F+) than I do during temperate weather (70F and cooler). The car runs leaner and develops less power but uses less fuel as well. My Honda Civic DX went from 38-40 mpg in the winter to 45+mpg during the August heat in MIXED driving, even with the air conditioning on. My SpecV can top 31mpg in the summer but will probably average around 28 in the winter. Expect this and factor the seasonal changes into your mileage expectations.

6) Using the A/C puts a load on the engine and reduces miles per gallon. Roll the window down at low speeds or use the vents and electric fan at highway speeds. Just donít drive with the window rolled down at high speed. This causes so much aerodynamic drag that you are usually better off using the A/C. This brings me to aerodynamics Ö

7) A clean car (freshly washed and waxed) is more aerodynamic than a dirty car and this might make a difference on extended highway-speed trips. Minimize any roof-racking, etc Ö and forget about the do-nothing spoilers on the back of most cars. They do nothing but add weight and drag.

8) Be sure to change your air filter regularly. Dirty, restrictive air filters cause your engine to run richer (use more fuel). I used to use a K&N cone-style filter which tend to flow more and require less maintenance. Running a dirty air filter kills your mileage and running around in a rich condition can foul up your entire motor, its crankcase oil, the emissions equipment, etc Ö With my Nissan, I just make sure I change the filter element every spring once the salt is off the roads.

9) I donít carry around a lot of junk in my car. This saves weight and less weight saves gas by putting less load on the motor. A lot of engines will richen-up a bit when the load reaches a certain point and this decreases fuel economy. You can go wacky and anal with this idea trying to strip your car down but between insanity and animal house is a clean vehicle without hundreds of pounds of superfluous junk in the backseat and trunk. Another way to reduce weight in your vehicle: stay single, donít have kids and donít date fat chicks.

10) Drive a vehicle with a standard transmission (not an automatic). They and their fluids weigh less, donít lose any power through a fluid coupling, sometimes feature a higher final drive ratio and make you a better driver overall. Better drivers, all things being equal, get better fuel economy.

11) Use a good fuel injector cleaner regularly (2-3 times per year). Clean injectors fire a spray that is well atomized, burns more completely giving you greater power and economy as well as cleaner emissions. If you donít believe in the bottled stuff (some are better than others), get it done professionally every 3 years or so.

12) Plan routes well minimizing backtracking while running errands. Unnecessary miles use unnecessary fuel.

13) Never use the drive-thru window at banks and fast-food places unless there are only 1 or 2 cars ahead of you. Itís better (and faster) to park and quickly run in.

--- Bror Jace
post #15 of 17 Old Jun 2nd, 2005, 11:03 PM
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Well stated Jace! always wisdom in your posts. My tires will take 44 psi
but are a lot smoother ride at 40. And i coast! Driving to/from a lawn care job with that heavy mower i can coast up to around 75 going downhill. Always coast in traffic to. Coasted almost 4 miles of a 16 mile drive today (big hills). Don't overrev your motor. I try to shift between 2000 and 3000 RPM's. You won't gain anything by dogging it. I might go to 3400 RPM's once a tank unless i get on the freeway. Its a 4 or 6 cylinder truck. Not a sports car. Smaller tires will reduce your launch time and time to get to speed and they changed my shift points dramatically. I can start from a california style stop in second without overreving the motor or slipping the clutch at all. I hit 5th gear around 50 MPH and 2800 RPM's. At 65 it runs about 3000 RPM's in 5th.

While dropping the tailgate is theoretically viable fuel saver someone at Texas A&M claimed that it increased resistance in their wind tunnel tests. I take mine off if i'm not planning on hauling a load. You can feel the difference. Try it. Takes me about a minute off and 2-3 to get it back on. Drops my freeway RPM's about 100 at same speeds.

I've printed that formula for distance traveled vs odomiter reading. I'll keep it handy for when i get the new tires. I was thinking that the 30x9.5" will be better mannered than the 31x10.5" due to width but want height because i got stuck in the snow last winter. it was so deep that it lifted my front end completely off the ground on the skid plate and control arms when i tried to break through a drift on my way home. I had to get out and dig and wasn't to happy about it. Tirerack usually displays a tires actual height if you click on the "specs" tab at the top of any listing

Last edited by 79kz400; Jun 2nd, 2005 at 11:21 PM.
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