Murray Wilson

I have just purchased a used 1997 Pickup XE and it runs great, clean truck with 63,000 miles. Any advice on particular things to look for in terms of maintenance other than the obvious?
Thanks..
MW

aaronford

Wash behind the fender lips, under the bed (around panel joints), and inside rear roll pan/quarter panels. Mud likes to hide here and cause cancer if left. My truck likes to eat belts every 30K or so. Nissan belts work the best and that's cool cause they cost less than the others. Other than that, they are cool little trucks that last a while.

__________________
Aaron Ford
95 2WD Nissan PU E
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue GX
"The hard part about playing chicken is knowing when to flinch" Scott Glenn in The Hunt for Red October

Murray Wilson

Thank you,,,, yes the bets do sound a little squeely...!
MW

jemtec

I used to have a nice 92 Nissan 2wd Standard Cab.. had only 10K on it.
Nice Slate grey color, Ok Stereo, and no other accessories.
I really liked the KA24 Engine and the 5 speed. Good Performance.
Being lighter with no accessories allowed 8.0 Sec 0-60 and 16.5 Second Quarters at 85 MPH which was great for the time in a small truck.
Awesome brakes even with no ABS.
I hit 135 Mph (no this isnt a misprint) racing against an Eagle Talon Turbo and what I didnt know is the guy I was racing on the highway was a friend of mine who worked at Tidymans (grocery store) here in Post Falls, Idaho.
He was going to get his paycheck, I was going to the store to get some goodies.
It was about 11:30 at night, so there werent too many people on the Highway, and it was about a 2 mile road race on mostly straightaway from the Spokane Valley to Postfalls.
My Friend told me that he was amazed how fast the truck was.
To answer who won the race..He did. An Eagle Talon Turbo almost hits 150 Mph. So, he passed me, but didnt "blast by" me.
He matched my speed, then he continued on to Tidymans, and thats when I found out it was him, and how fast he clocked me at, which again was 135.
I can make at least an observation about the KA24 Engine.
It will tap sometimes on startup. Nothing to worry about. Its totally normal. Happens more so in the colder months.
However..NEVER use anything heavier than 10/30W oil.
10/40 and 20/50 is WAY too thick and sounds like absolute crap in the motor cold, and hurts the MPG noticably. Stay away from Penzoil as I saw many an engine filled with crap in pennzoil motors.
I always used Castrol and things were spotless.
The 2wd Standard Cab Model Trucks arent great in the winter, and alittle weight in the back is needed or you will spin almost everywhere, and the short wheelbase tends to cause you to do easy 360s on the ice. I called my truck the "white knuckle express".. scary in the winter.
Nissan installed really crappy shocks in all the trucks.
Many manufacturer's do it, but if yours are black, thin, and seem to bounce alot, roll in corners, and the nose of the truck to dove into the pavement on a stop, then you have the factory shocks. DUMP THEM.
They are worthless and dangerous.
Put a good set of gas shocks in the truck and you will be amazed how much better it drives!
The exhaust system:
From the manifold, back to the cat and intermediate pipe (just before it hits the muffler) tend to last.. But I cant say the same for the muffler.
The muffler is "tilted" about 15 Degrees upward, and if there is no drain hole on the muffler, they go bad pretty fast.. Might get 2-3 years if you do more hwy driving but if you do alot of short trips, you will have a muffler maybe 1 year and it will start rusting out again.
The Rule is to drive 8 miles which constitutes a good "warm up" time for the muffler so it can dry out during cool down and help prevent rust damage. (true of any car or truck).
All engines produce water, and the acids in the exhaust tend to take the rust 1 step further by accelerating the problem.
One of the solutions is take a 5/32 Drill bit, and drill a small hole at the lowest point in the can of the muffler in the inlet side front. (6 o'clock position).
It helps to drain condensation buildup if you drive shorter trips for any reason.
Consider an "aluminized" or "stainless" type muffler, and try to go for a 2 Inch performance type.
It was odd that Nissan used a 2 Inch exhaust all the way back, TILL you get to the end of the Intermediate pipe.. and then from the muffler inlet back, its 1 3/4 Inch!
The turn signal assembly and integrated headlight switch from 1986 1/2-1993 tend to go bad at about 100-130k miles. Dealer is only place with them I found.
Replace your O2 sensor.
Nissans really take advantage of it, and once you get around 75K, its time to toss the factory one. They are getting sluggish by then.
The KA24, uses a singlewire sensor, and about 25.00 for a Bosch unit. However, I think Nissan Put A heated sensor in the 1996 and 1997 KA24 engines which costs more.
Watch the Center Support Bearing Assembly..
Its located in the Middle of the Truck, where the driveshaft connects from the transmission, and is bolted to an assembly that looks like a Doughnut bolted to the frame crossmember and then the final shaft portion thats about 5 feet long. The 2 pieces individually connect to the Centersupport bearing.
See that its not all cracked, or tearing. If it is, Replace that and your U joints. VERY important.
Ive been hearing some reports that the dashboards in post 1996 model Nissans can have erratic behavior of the Temperature gauge.
There seems to be an issue with the dash voltage regulator, but Id need more input from more of the guys who own those years to know if its a pattern or not.
The KA24 Engines do have 1 area to watch and its the Timing chain and tensioner assemblies.
Once you get over 120K or so, the guides are well worn and the chain really starts slapping. Eventually, the assembly breaks, and all hell breaks loose.
So if you have an odd sound coming from the valve cover (not tapping) but a louder sound that tends to get louder with raising the engine RPM then you have a potential problem. Sounds a bit like a cheese grater being dragged on the pavement.
I tell people to replace the Timing Chain and Gears with an aftermarket layout, because the guides, and tensioner seem to last longer.
If you arent good with oil changes, they go out much sooner than 120K.
The KA24 Really likes low tension (low resistance) Spark Plug wires.
I put a set of Splitfire wires in mine and it made a decent diff in performance and boosted MPG alittle. I actually got wires that were slightly longer, and werent a factory size, and I dont know If splitfire ever Made an "official" set for the KA24 Or not. I could prove they were "better" because you can measure the wires and see that its around 250-500 Ohms.. This is outstanding.
The Standard wires are high resistance, and tend to leak with anything over 60K miles. If they are stock wires, they will be black, and tell you a "Year" they were made.
If they are Stock..Toss them.
Bosch wires are a good stand between if you dont want to spend as much money on a set of splitfires although bosch is single spiral wire over splitfires dual spiral wire core.
Again, Less than 250 to 500 Ohms is awesome, but around 1000 Ohms isnt bad and is to be expected with single spiral wire core.
Carbon Fiber core wires are CRAP.. AVOID carbon Aramid Fiber core.
Let me explain why.
Carbon dust is "spherical" in shape.. As you send electrons through them, the action creates a magnetic field. This field tends to make the Spheres "Roll" down toward the sparkplug over time.
This creates shorts, and raises the resistance to electron flow (more Ohms needed to flow through) which decreases power going to the plug.
Not good.
Higher resistance also means more heat. Just like an element on a stove, the reason it gets "red" is that the coils are resisting power flow and are glowing from the power trying to force its way through the coil.
This is not the goal to a powerful, fat, clean spark.
So, High resistance wires= Waste Heat, and eventually shorts and can DAMAGE the Ignition coil (its called Spark energy Suppression) and is frequently used to reduce EMI and EMP. (electro magnetic interferance and Electro Magnetic Pulse).
Most of todays 8MM wires are good for preventing external EMI and EMP because they are shielded in a Fiberglass spun around I almost Guarantee a Carbon fiber Core, and then with a silicon coating (for heat resistance to manifolds and engine heat).
8.5MM is also frequently used.
But, what people Dont understand is that when you use a lower thickness wire, You dont need 8 or even 8.5 MM cores, and can easily use a 7.5 MM core if its got a Good Spiral wire core, and this is because its got a lower resistance, which means the power isnt being suppressed so much that its just resisting flow in the wire and is generating heat instead of going to the Plug where it belongs.
The Spiral wire allows for better flow, which means you are generating a smaller "electrical pulse" within the wire, even though more power is flowing through it. Sounds backwards doesnt it?
Autolite, makes some of the cheapest crap out there. They have good shielding, but they need to stop using the fiberglass core with carbon dust, which is just a waste of your money to buy longterm AND shorterm!
The stock ones average around 7-9K Ohms.. Yes.. 7000-9000 Ohms and worsen as they Age!
Dont be afraid to ask a Counter person at an autoparts store if you can look at the wires.. If you see the Light, Fluffy, Powder core in the wires they are trying to sell, avoid them.
A spiral wire core will have a thin wire spun around a white core. Its unmistakable when you see it.
Do a Full Tuneup, to be sure everything has been replaced.
Make sure you have the rubber "cover" that goes on the Distributor Cap. Keeps water and dirt out.
The heat Shield on the Exhaust manifold has bolts that tend to loosen. They are 10MM arrangements and cheap. The Manifold might "Buzz" if you dont replace them. USE ANTISEIZE COMPOUND! then it will help them not "rust out".. thats mostly why they loosen.
Ive Loved all my Nissan Pickups, and I still have a trusty 88 Hardbody SE V6 Kingcab 4wd.
Hope you enjoy your truck.
Expect 23 MPG (overall hwy and city) with a 5 Speed on the 1990-1995 2wd Standard Cabs with the KA24.
I have a friend that has a 1997 2wd Standard Cab, and he seems to get between 20 City, and 27 on the Hwy with the 5 speed.
Best I got was 30Mpg on a road trip, so it must have been the switch to OBD II Engine Computer in 1996, Although he has AC and Powersteering.
Ive also heard the post 1996 Models are Governed to 110 Mph.
Sorry for the long post and it might seem a bit scattered and off topic somewhat but it was fun typing it.. LOL

Will

I see no need to apologize. It might be long but it's pretty comprehensive. I've had/have two 2.4 Hardbodies. One with well over 500,000 and my present with255,000. I believe the secret is routine maintaince. Take care of them they'll take care of you. If you live in a heavy snow area and salt is used to clear the roads. Think undercoating. The factory jobs are a bit lacking in this area.

Murray Wilson

Thank you ALL for the great information.... off to get some new plug wires!

MW

jerryp58

I guess they're the obvious, but...

Unless you know the maintenance history of the truck (and it was performed as required), I'd change out all of the fluids, engine, trans, differential(s), and transfer case (if 4x4) in addition to the coolant. Fresh lube in all of the grease fittings would be nice too. You may want to pull a plug or two and see what kind of shape they're in, and again, if you're not sure of the maintenance that was performed, a tune-up with new filters (gas, oil, fuel), PCV and such wouldn't hurt. Then at least you know what you've got.

__________________

Jerry
2004 Frontier, King Cab, XE, 4x1, 4-cyl, 5-spd

redneck truck

wow nice post!! another person like me who writes chapters for a simple question ..definitely a wealth of information - i learned a few things. I would also like to add my 2 cents also.

TRANSMISSION:
the manual transmission calls for GL-4, so when you do a fluid change, make sure it is GL-4, not GL-5. This is only speculation, because it was a dealer who told me this, but apparently gl4 and gl5 are not compatible - gl5 contains some sort of sulfur additive or something (dont ask me) that corrodes the synchronizer rings. Might not be true, but the book calls for GL-4, and not GL-5. Also mentions NOT to overfill.

REAR-END:
don't forget limited slip additive if youve got a limited slip diff. It should be evidently marked on the outside of the casing somewhere.

ECCS SELF-TEST:
when i bought my truck six monghs ago, it failed the hydrocarbons (raw fuel) test with 280ppm, and the carbon monoxide emissions (caused by incomplete combustion) requirement by 45 times (not a typo - limit was 0.21% and mine was 9.6%). This was accompanied by the rotton egg catalytic convertor smell, so i did a quick google search for a computer scan tool, since i couldn't find one at autozone. I don't know what years this applies to, but for mine, the ECCS (computer) is under the passenger seat, and has five diagnostic self-tests, so you can pull codes, check switches, relays, solenoids, and sensors, and monitor the O2 sensor and air/fuel ratio control. this thread http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=15735 contains more specific information regarding the diagnostic tests. Turned out my O2 sensor was cycling every 37 seconds, the norm being every 1-2 seconds, and was running extremely rich as a result.

O2 SENSOR:
So, i decided to replace my o2 sensor. every heat shield bolt broke off, so i got rid of it (not really necessary anyway), and when i unscrewed the o2 sensor, it left its threads inside its hole in the manifold, and i couldn't screw the new one in. So, i set out to remove the exhaust manfiold and clean up the hole. upon removing the manifold stud nuts, 2 studs broke off in the head. fortuately i got them out with vice grips and replaced them (like $2 a piece from the dealer), and then found out that the O2 sensor nut (as it is called by the parts dept.) is a separate part that can be removed with a 32mm wrench. The new part is $6, so when you tear up the hole, just go pick up another one. ::sigh of relief:: after that, my truck passed with 1/2 to 1/10 the legal limit, so that works for me.

TIMING CHAIN:
My truck also had the terrible "cheese grater" clatter (nice analogy), and I replaced the chain and guides. Very easy install, but do yourself a favor and buy 3 or 4 four-inch-long M6 bolts. use them to slide the oil pan and the timing cover on straight - since they use silicone, not gaskets, it can get messy if you screw up. the long bolts align the oil pan/timing cover and allow it to slide straight on like a cassette. these bolts can also be used to push the crank pulley off - just screw them into 3 of the 6 holes through the crank pulley, and when you screw them in far enough, they will push against the block and the pulley will slide off. don't use the clamp-style pulley pullers - ive got a chunk missing in the outer rim of my balancer from someone who did that, and i even heard of a crank pulley shattering from improper use of a puller. Don't stress too much about getting the chain timed correctly, as it is very easy. one keyway on the crank gear, one on the cam gear, and one key each in the top of the crank and camshafts. as long as both the crank and cam keys are pointed straight up, the engine is timed. There are 2 chrome links on the chain, and they line up with punch marks on their respective gears. It will be obvious which link is for which gear when you get in there. as long as they are correct (double check - mine was off a tooth, but i caught the mistake before i reassembled), you will be fine. Don't bother buying a valve cover gasket - they are reusable and therefore a waste of $17 unless yours is really damaged. Also, the $40 timing sets on ebay appear to be the same as the $92 cloyes sets at oreillys, but use your own judgment. When you pull the valve cover, make TOTALLY SURE you don't whack the last intake rocker - the book strongly advises against it, and following my timing chain replacement, i had a pretty good compression loss on #4, that i think was caused by rocker arm damage. It works ok now, though, so it might have just been caked valves. Also, when you get it started back up and it sounds like a diesel engine, it is probably because you have air in your lifters, so don't freak out - just fast-idle it for 10-20 minutes (about 1200rpm) and the noise will go away - I think it may come from rotating the engine after draining the oil or something (i was trying to get it at #1 firing position after I pulled the pan, so maybe i squeezed the oil out of the lifters or something hehe).

DISTRIBUTOR:
Make sure you mark the distributor rotor position in relation to the distributor housing, and mark the pinch bolt position on the housing. The distributor driveshaft fits into the oil pump drive spindle, driven by a gear on the crankshaft snout. The distributor only fits into the oil pump spindle ONE way, so do NOT rotate the oil pump spindle after removing it - as long as the oil pump doesn't get turned when it is out, the ignition timing will be correct upon reassembly. If you are concerned that either the engine or the oil pump were disturbed while disassembled, install the distributor first, and then the oil pump. Have somebody hold the distributor rotor in place in the position it was removed, and install the oil pump from the bottom. If the spindle and the shaft won't slide together, pull it back out and rotate it, and try again. Quite a nuissance, but it works. I realized that the reason my truck was so slow was because the ignition timing was retarded one tooth (almost 30 degrees), and when i pulled it back apart and re-set the distributor, it probably bought me like 80 horsepower. literally. I think it was the backed-off ignition timing from the previous time the chain was replaced that made the exhaust manifold studs and heat shield bolts so soft. also, the exhaust manifold glowed red before i fixed it. You can buy a timing light for like $5 on ebay, and it is an excellent tool to have.

BUCKET SEATS:
If you don't have bucket seats yet, buy some. I picked up a set of leather ones from a pathy on ebay for $120 + $120 shipping, and it was the best $240 i have EVER spent. although the stock bench takes 4 bolts, there are 4 more holes in the floor for buckets, and the spare bolts necessary to complete the installation are in the floor already, so just pull them out and install them. Stock seat belt receivers work, and the install took a total of about 10 minutes.

GAUGE CLUSTER:
I had a crappy 150k mile gauge cluster with a printed dial and hash marks, and the word "NISSAN" in place of a tachometer, and i bought a 50k mile cluster with a tach, clock, and trip odometer from a v6 auto pathy on ebay for $20 shipped. Although it was from an auto, it plugged in just the same and works perfectly. The only problem is that the tach reads at 66% the actual rpm (probably because it came from a v6, and a 4cyl has 66% the number of power strokes per rpm), but I figured it out really quickly and hardly notice it anymore. Another great investment, considering the cost involved. Installation took about 2 minutes.

Well that's it for my long-winded 2 cents. feel free to add anything i missed. Hope this helps!

- Bryan

gatorgar55

I've had my truck for 8 years and 375000 miles with no complaints.

1997XETruck

I'd recommend OEM plugs and wires, new fuel filter, etc. My favoirte parts supplier is www.everythingnissan.com - for faster service call 1-888-216-5328 and ask for Joe. For the front O2 sensor, you can get a denso unit at www.sparkplugs.com and save some serious $$ vs. OEM. No cutting and splicing either - it's the exact fit. Check your fuel mileage. If it's less than 19 or 20 in mixed town/interstate driving you probably need a new one. It increased my fuel economy from about 16 to about 20 when I replaced mine at about 105K.

Heath

__________________
1997 Nissan XE Truck - 133,000 Miles
1990 Infiniti Q45 - 91,000 Miles
2005 Infiniti G35 Sedan - 34,000 Miles

jemtec

Going to try and answer you guys as best I can.
Well, whats funny is that I ran out of Max number of characters!.. I was so close in fact, that I was within 2 or 3 characters of the 10,000 Max here.
Yes, I do tend to write rather long posts for simple stuff.
I just wrote another rather large one here on the site.
I guess in this case, what to "look for" is kinda open ended and could go on for hours.
You reminded me of some of the other stuff I didnt mention.
For instance.. For 4wd Hardbodies, the Differential gear oil ABSOLUTELY no questions asked HAS to have limited slip additive put in or it will sound like a worn Ujoint, particularly around corners. Ive seen Dealerships forget to do this for the usual "fluid change". And Ill bet some people have lost some money about it.. Thinking the rearend is "going out" would be a realistic thing.
But in the years of reading and working on rigs, I figured that one out pretty quick on my 1991 Hardbody I used to own, and when a friend with his 89 Pathfinder asked me what I "thought" the sound coming was coming from his rigs rearend was.
I have heard a few people talk about GL-5 Gear oil as opposed to GL-4 being used.. I might stop in my local Nissan Dealership and get some info about it.
If Sulphur Compounds are damaging to Brass, then thats not cool at all.
BUT in a way, its also the manufactures (of the oils)fault because (at least Ive noticed) they say that thier stuff works with GL-4 AND GL-5 Systems!
Ive got GL-5 in my Trans, front and rear differentials as well as my transfercase. Which reminds me.. Guys with 1991 and Later Nissan Hardbody 4wds.. NEVER put Gear oil in your Transfercase.. It uses Dexron-III!
Nissan went to a larger Transfercase main bearing in 1990, and changed the fluid type in 1991.. odd by itself.
Also, For the same guys using 1991-1997.. If you tow, Be SURE you have used your Dielectric grease on your connectors, and that the trailer adapter (if you got the good integrated component) is tight and secure.
If not, you will notice odd Turn Signal Behavior. One thing is that even with your turn signals off, you will see a faint "glow" on your dash indicators... If you do, its your Trailer Adapter not being connected well enough.
It might be better to just remove the adapter if you arent using it.
Its good to know there is someone out there that types long Posts.
Believe me, I will be doing more. LOL
Also learned a funny tidbit.. 1992 Nissan Rear Differential pinion seals have a tendancy to Leak.. ONLY that year. My 92's went out at 23K.
Using the engine computer is fun in a Nissan. I love running the computer.
I call it the "Nissan tattletale device".
Ive used it to diagnose problems with about 70% accuracy in anything from 1986 1/2 through 1995.
The 1996 and 1997 models, I havent tried, but there are about 60 more codes! Its FAR more picky than OBD1 used in the earlier years.
I think the 96 and 97 models used a "dual" O2.. A pre and post cat.
As far as Manifold Studs, I just redid the Passenger side on my Vg30 and 2 snapped off in the head flush, and the others BARELY came out with the jam Nut method.. (take 2 of the same nut size and Turn them on the stud, then tighten the nuts tightly against each other and turn only the outer nut to remove the stud or install.
The manifold wasnt cracked, but the gasket was hammered, and getting the studs that were broken off required an EZ out, a smaller drill, and a Titanium Drill bit to drill as ACCURATELY as you can shooting for the center of the broken stud, and trying to get it deep enough for the EZ out to bite and remove them. Also Run with a Tap to be sure the threads are clean.
Its interesting doing this work. Should say a PAIN.
The Factory Nissan 8MM Studs are Crap. Im not sure about the KA24s, but I Know for a fact the V6 Engines are totally trash for all VG30s, and Im hearing the VG33s have been getting hit.
I got some good aftermarket ones that were actually a thread deeper, and just as long did the job just fine.
Replaced em all. Not worth only doing it partway.
Anyway, I feel right at home here in the forum talking about Nissans.
My First truck was a 1979 620 pickup, and I have had nothing but Nissan Pickups since.
Will.. WOW thats alot of miles.
And yes, maintenance is paramount to that success with no major repairs.
I had a 1991 Nissan 4wd Pickup that had only 150K on it, but it was all highway and the truck still was in near showroom shape.
300,000 Plus Mostly Hwy Miles isnt too hard to obtain if you are always on the road. However, 300,000 in the City and on the Road combined, and that gets hard to do, even for someone as pitifully maintenence oriented as I am with all my Stuff.
Not to sound like Im trying to say anything against your #'s.. But there are so many factors to longevity in vehicles and a dozen different scenarios such as Part quality, Personal Usage, Time, Weather, Maintenance Schedules, Lubricant Quality and Quantity and good old Elbow Grease to fix things before they break just to name the big ones.
Ive had mostly used rigs, of varying levels of condition.
My Current Pickup has 135K miles, but its been treated pretty crappy over the last several years, and It took me 3000.00 to bring it back to where Its "almost back to stock".. and I still have stuff to do.
I almost wish I bought a newer truck and never bought this one, but I just gave this one a new lease on life, and had fun doing all the work.
Is it going to run another 100K or 200K? I feel it will do alot better with me behind the wheel than the last owner thats for sure.. But will it make it?
Im going to say probably not but Ill try.
Anyway, Sounds like you guys are running the right formulas and are happy with your rides.. So Seriously... Im not complaining.
Also.. Bryan... Ive done this swap several times to a "non tach" nissan.
You are right about the RPM being off. The 6Cyl models are calibrated differently.
Its just easier to find a 4cyl Tach, but I know it sounds tachy..(LOL). but you will find that what Im saying might be easier said than done.
I had a hardtime finding a good 4cyl tach for my brothers 87 Pathfinder.
Hes got one rare bird.. its 4wd, got a Z24, Factory AC, but had no Tach, No power anything. But we found a 4cyl tach out of an 89 Nissan Pickup and stuck it in there. Worked fine. Simple, and affordable mod.
You will find that most of the time, the 4wd Models will have your tachs you are looking for.
Seems like the 2wds are pretty limited with options.
A Nice future tip for your speak of removing Crankpulleys..
Use ANTISEIZE compound on the shaft (coat well) and do the same on your Exhaust manifold studs and nuts. It helps Tremendously next time around, and you almost never need a pulley puller!
When washing your rigs interior, Dont forget to use Armorall, or whatever protectant you are using around the door seals, as well as use plenty of lithium spray (can get at any autoparts store) for your hinges, locks, and door jamb switches. Dont forget to use a hose to blow out all the dirt that builds up in the front fenders where your doors open.. there are a couple drains there, and to keep the rust down to a dull roar, get that crap outta there. Its right behind the mudflaps of all places and worse for the 2wd models that dont have flaps.. it still gets behind the inner fender shields.
I dont know if you notice this but Hardbodys have a funny tendancy for the doors to not shut if you and another person shut the doors at the same time?
Its unique.
Makes me laugh even though I and whomever have to shut the doors again.
You are right Will.. Go with heavier undercoating. Totally agree.
ESPECIALLY Under the rear wheelwells on the very top middle.. I have serious cancer on mine, and I have to ultimately replace the Bed.
Its in the works one of these days because the tailgate is ugly too.
The guy who owned my truck didnt really care about it much.
He left a dead muffler on my truck and I still have to take care of the rust and will be doing that come summer. He let it go for 3 years.. Makes me livid just thinking about It! I replaced the muffler about a year ago, but I need to get under there and do away with a pretty good level of rust.
I already had to replace the Spare, and the tire lift due to exhaust acid damage and rust.
Looks like Im going to learn some cosmetic welding! I can solder like no tomorrow (used to work for Agilent technologies) but its not the same. LOL
And thanks 1997XETRUCK.. You just saved me $60.00 over OE on the NGK O2 Sensor.
I couldnt seem to locate one anywhere near that price on the net.
Here is something to note.. Any of you guys notice that there is another "ground wire" on the V6 Nissan Hardbody O2 sensors?
I got a sensor from Schucks that didnt have this wire. (im having to replace because it was DOA) and the dealer couldnt even answer me.
I couldnt even contact Nissan themselves.. Do any of you guys know if its even possible to talk to a Factory TECH? Im getting tired of some of these wrenches saying.. Uh.. Dont know.. Uh.. Check your Manual.. Uh.. whats for Lunch?..
They arent all like that, but I feel like many are and Im getting tired of not getting concrete answers, so Ill ask you fellas.
It looks like a way to prevent any EMI interferance by introducing a conductive wire around the 3 main wires (mines a heated sensor).. but its mostly theory. I understand alot of about electrical theory, but this one has me scratching my head a bit mostly because Its a TRUCK not a Nuclear device!.
I cant understand why they are so concerned about the wire, other than 1 volt (02 sensors send .2 volts to 1.0 Volts) and maybe they are worried about electrical impedence and are trying to keep the signal as "Unaffected" as possible? The total length of this Sensor Wire is a full 7 feet long. Good Assumption?. LOL
Thanks guys.

Will

I believe the trouble shooting section of the manual has just been rewritten. LOL

jemtec

Hey Guys,
Well, Looks like Sparkplugs.com dropped the Ball for an O2 Sensor for my 88 Nissan with the Vg30 (v6).
They are currently listing 2 #s for the O2 sensor. # 24001 and # 24005. (as of this writing) and listed them for just a pinch under $60.00.
These part #s they are currently listing are NOT correct.
The correct part# should be NGK #24602
I was emailed back from Sparkplugs.com saying they do have the sensor in stock (I used their part # Search and they do carry it), But you currently have to call them to order it, as the site isnt updated. (obviously). LOL
I also found another place that carries nothing but O2 Sensors for good prices.
www.automedicsupply.com (click on link)
Will come up officially as "Oxygensensors.com".
What made this all come to pass in me doing so much research was the fact that Sparkplugs.com listed 2 part #s. (this seemed odd) for the V6.
I then started making some calls and got the correct info to pass along to anyone thats got an 86 1/2-89 VG30 Pickup Or 87-89 Pathfinder (also of course with the V6) Its Walker #250-24514 for $99.90. (shipping is free).
Probably made by NGK, Bosch, or ND.
They also had an illlustration of the part that matched what I currently have in my truck.
I ordered one from Schucks sometime ago, and they sent me a 3 wire sensor, but it should have 4 wires. (Red, Black, White and some odd ground connector that plugs into the harness beside the O2 Main Connector on the passengerside fenderwell Which i think is for RF shielding). Obviously they sent me the wrong one, in addition to it having been dropped and DOA.
Ive found that locally, the prices for the VG30 O2 sensor is about $30-$40.00 More which is a waste of money as most of them have to order them anyway.
Hope this helps anybody looking for O2 Sensors for any Nissan Hardbody or Pathfinder from 1986 1/2 -89.

CqCasting

Great Thread! Just wanted to introduce myself and get some directions on a problem thats developed. I have this 1997 Nissan Pickup with 189k plus miles, after I bought it I switched it over from Quaker oil to Caster 5-30. Never had a problem until now. Was running fine, no warning noises, engine trouble lights or indicaters one usually has. About a month ago I had to replace the battery and altinator.
I was driving through town when it just died. I've checked the cap and rotor, plugs, cleaned them and checked for fire. It has fire, the fuel pump is working, I can hear the pump run when turning on the ignition. Pulled the plugs regapped them, checked for fire and wetness from fuel. Even used some starter fluid. Nothing, not even a pop. After talking to a friend who had a problem with his Nissan, I'm thinking it could be a faulty Mass Air Flow Meter.
Then I came onto this thread and I'm thinking I need to see if I can retrieve the code from this ECU thing. I have a repair book comming to help in reducing this problem.I've been finding some links on here that are very interesting, has anyone used this company?

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