Hi, I've been trying to replace the Reverse switch on my 90 Pathfinder 4x4. The access room is horrible.
Has anyone done this successfully?
The problem is that there is hardly any swing room for a wrench because the switch is recessed into the shifter housing except for a puny amount on top. Of course top access is not there (even if I remove the floor bracket to the shifter from inside the cab, I think) because the body tunnel is too close. Aaaahhh! I'm not gonna drop the tranny and crossmember because the torsion bars are in the way. Besides, there's gotta be an easier way.
If I cut the wires of the old switch I could maybe use a deep socket to remove it (that would maybe give me enough standoff distance from the housing but not so much that I hit the body tunnel), but then I need to install the new switch and I prefer not to cut the wires in order to get the socket and ratchet on. I even tried a crowfoot wrench with a U-joint and extension on the ratchet. Didn't work. Too much of an angle, maybe. Besides, I'd have to reposition it every couple of degrees if it did work.
I was thinking of trying a 19mm or 3/4" spark plug socket, if there is such a thing. That way I don't have to cut any wires from the new switch since they can feed through the socket drive end (I already removed the wires and contacts from the connector housing), and then I can turn the socket by its external hex with a wrench. Hmmm.
Alas, only those of you who have done this job will appreciate what I'm trying to say here. Only a photo would do enough justice.
Can you help? I don't mind being humbled by your easy solution.
The switch on my 88 was a pain you are going to have to wrench it one flat at a time. If you have stubby wrench make the job that much easier. Before you start make sure its your switch and not the wiring. you can easily check this by removing the plug to the switch and slaving in the new switch and press on the switch if you have bought one already. If not just jumper the plug and the light will come on. At least you know the wiring is ok.
unfortunately for me I replace the switch and the internal working inside the tranny were worn. at this point either drop the tranny start what would be an adventure i didnt want to take. I resolve this problem by adding some wires and a on/off switch to the dash.
Thanks for replying.
Alas, it looks like you're right. One flat at a time. But I still want to get a 19mm or 3/4" spark plug socket, if there is such a thing, and try that.
You have 2 great ideas. I thought of making sure the wiring was not the culprit but I ended up assuming the switch was at fault since it does work only sometimes when I jiggle the stick. But yeah, maybe there's more going on in there that might be not contacting. I'll do the test with the new switch.
As well, I mounted a nifty little switch box I made up that will either turn on the rear spotlite automatically with the tranny (the signal that I'm not getting now), or manually when I tell it to (no probs). And the signal goes to either the vehicle rear floodlite, or to the trailer's rear floodlite, or both. Works really well. Only 1 rocker switch and 1 rotary switch.
Sometimes I'm not just working behind me or backing up in the dark. I may be towing my little Boler and checking on the hitch while pulled over, and I want only the vehicle rear lite to be on (I don't want to blind oncoming traffic coming up behind me and my trailer) so I choose that switch position. Or if I'm backing my trailer into a dark campsite, I will choose only to use the trailer's rear lite so I'm not blinded while backing up. And in the trailer there's a littler box, where I can make that automatic, or disable it, or even turn on the lite while not connected to the vehicle at night (to see that the noise outside is something a lot smaller than a grizzly, just to be sure).
Thanks. So far I think I'm turning off the switch manually, and not forgetting. Gotta get that working automatically again.
Well, I got it done! And here's a few pictures to show how easy it was. Uh-oh. Hey, I can't attach pics. I'll check into it. They're worth it.
Basically, I found a 3/4" spark plug socket that has the external hex and removed the inside rubber retainer. My new tool.
After I cut off the connector from the old switch I could remove it easily (too easily!!) with my new tool and a standard open end wrench.
I carefully removed the contacts of the new switch from the switch housing (noting which way they click back in) so that they can slip through the drive hole of my new tool while I insert the switch in as well. The switch was then installed without a problem using the wrench, with a decent amount of swing room. I then inserted the contacts back into the switch housing and snapped it together again.
Voila, I got me reverse lights again. I'm happy.
Figured I'd share it with you.
The usual way to do that is actually to unbolt the transmission mount, jack up the tranny/tcase, remove the crossmember and then lower the tranny/engine enough to get to it. It's easy enough to do that if you have a jack. Then all you need is a simple wrench to get the sensor off.
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'88 Pathfinder: 6" of lift, 33x13.50 Swamper LTB's, Rancho 9000's, L&P Stage 3 steering system, K&N, Pacesetter headers and 2.5" exhaust, Lock-Right locker, 110A alty and electric fan swap, dual batteries, 700W+ worth of PIAAs, etc.
Yikes! Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. The torsion bars are right there too. Thanks for the advice, though.
Nope, I'm quite happy to have done it in a way that turned out too easy.
I called SEARS about a week ago and asked them to change out the reverse light switch. The guy on the phone Mr. No-Way-Jose'; "...we don't touch anything on a transmission." "It is not what we do here..." I was not happy.
It is cold as the north pole here, I am way to big to get under the truck, and I have no garage; so I decide to go down to SEARS and beg. It worked, and they hoisted her up on the lift and swapped out the old switch for 30 bucks. Then I rolled over to the inspection center and PASSED! (fourth time is a charm)
Thanks for all the info guys. Good thing I had the new switch with me and was able to tell the mechanic what wrenches to use and where it went on the tranny (the switch on the right).
I carefully removed the contacts of the new switch from the switch housing (noting which way they click back in) so that they can slip through the drive hole of my new tool while I insert the switch in as well.
Hey, I have the EXACT same problem you were having--and I can appreciate what a pain it is. Your idea was ingenious (I had the same idea about cutting the wires on the old one, but did not know how I would get the new one on). So, anyway, I have removed the red clip from the end of the new switch like it shows in your picture. Now, how do I pull the two wires out from the grey plug without breaking them? And once I get them out, how do I get them back in place again so that they are sturdy and can be used to plug into? Please help. You are awesome!
Glad to have helped, as others here have helped me.
If I understand what you're asking, you want to know how to remove the switch wires with their crimped on pins from the connector housing. Good question, I should have mentioned how.
Now, it's been a while since I did this, but you need to get a long, pointy or flat scribe or blade. Before you do anything else, mark on the housing which color of wire goes where (I doubt it really matters, but...) and also take careful note as to the orientation of the pin going into the back (wire end) of the housing, meaning which way is the "U" shape profile of the pin. This is important for the pin to be reinserted properly later.
From the interface end of the connector (where it connects to the other connector), gently and carefully push in the little barbs of the pin so that the pin can be released and removed from the wire end. If you slightly push the pin into the housing a little further, the barbs might move easier. I think there are usually 2 barbs. Be patient, you don't want to break these off. Perhaps a second set of hands would help. Not too bad really.
That's about it. Once the new switch is installed, just push the pins back into the housing from the wire end (watch the orientation of the "U" shape) and listen and feel for some clicks. If not, give a gentle tug to be sure. Make sure the seals go back in properly too.
Reverse switch on my 90 Pathfinder 4x4
It worked, and they hoisted her up on the lift and swapped out the old switch for 30 bucks. Then I rolled over to the inspection center and PASSED! (fourth time is a charm) 
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