4WD not always engaging

DIE HARD NISSAN · Dec 30th, 2004, 03:40 AM

I'm new to this site, but found lots of good stuff the past couple days just browsing. I'm experiencing the trouble many have been having with the auto locking hubs, namely the hubs not freeing up after 4WD is disengaged and starting from a cold start. On my 1995 V6 Hard Body Extended Cab I get the buzzing/grinding noise from the passenger side hub and the clunk when coming to a stop. The same thing happened with my 1989 (also passenger side). On that one I cleaned out the old grease and re-greased and that took care of the problem. Tried it on the 1995 but it didn't seem to work. Tried putting the 89 hub on the 95 but it has the different axle size/spline count thing going on. Considering putting manuals on seeing as it seems to be an easy conversion and maybe it will take care of the other problem I'm experiencing now, which is the front wheel(s) disengage without notice when using the 4WD. I also can't always engage the front wheel(s) when shifting into 4WD. Also, do the front wheels have a limited slip diffential? It seems that just the passenger side is working, I haven't tried making it slip to see if the driver side engages. The truck came with a plow when I bought it last year and I'd like to use it this year, but plowing with 2WD isn't going to get me too far. Still will need to deal with the speedo/odometer problem and the intermitent check engine light. (I did buy the truck with the speedo problem and the check engine light just came on recently. I checked the code once(forgot it though)but the Chilton's book didn't have that code listed. I'll recheck and do another Post.

**88pathoffroad** · Dec 30th, 2004, 06:12 AM

The front differential is open. There was never a LSD offered for the front end. If cleaning and regreasing the auto hubs doesn't fix your problem then you probably need a few new parts, it'd probably be more equitable and useful to buy Warn or Superwinch hubs instead. I love mine.

werks2much · Dec 31st, 2004, 04:37 PM

I had the exact same problem you described and tried the same remedies on my '95 and nothing worked so I installed the Warn hubs. (Easy job) No more noises...they're either locked or unlocked. Shop around for prices.

Vertigo1 · Jan 1st, 2005, 10:04 PM

Same specs, '95 v6 4x4 ext cab with auto hubs.

I havent had any chance to screw around with it yet because of work. My original post:

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=80164

I had similar conclusions to your's, regarding repacking the hub and all, but I just have to find time to do it, and yet again, I'm booked with work (freelance production lighting [tv, concert, etc) for another couple weeks, so who knows when I'll actually get to it. Let me know if you get anything figured out for sure.

Thanks!

DIE HARD NISSAN · Jan 12th, 2005, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88pathoffroad

, it'd probably be more equitable and useful to buy Warn or Superwinch hubs instead. I love mine.

I am going to buy a WARN Hub kit, but I'd like to know if it has everything I need to do the conversion from auto to manual. Looking at the Chilton manual, there is a part that I believe is called the drive clutch that is on the axle spindle and is secured with a snap ring. I diffinately don't have one now and I don't see on the web site that I'm considering buy from any mention that a conversion kit is needed. Do you know if the Hub kit will contain this drive clutch and snap ring?
Kevin

DIE HARD NISSAN · Jan 12th, 2005, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by werks2much

I had the exact same problem you described and tried the same remedies on my '95 and nothing worked so I installed the Warn hubs. (Easy job) No more noises...they're either locked or unlocked. Shop around for prices.

I am going to buy a WARN Hub kit, but I'd like to know if it has everything I need to do the conversion from auto to manual. Looking at the Chilton manual, there is a part that I believe is called the drive clutch that is on the axle spindle and is secured with a snap ring. I diffinately don't have one now and I don't see on the web site that I'm considering buy from any mention that a conversion kit is needed. Do you know if the Hub kit will contain this drive clutch and snap ring?
Kevin

**88pathoffroad** · Jan 12th, 2005, 09:03 PM

The clutch is only for the auto hubs. The snapring should still be on your stock axle. If it isn't, no big loss, but I'd recommend getting one to put on there before installing the new hubs just for safety's sake. I've seen people run their hubs with no axle snapring. It won't go anywhere.

DIE HARD NISSAN · Jan 21st, 2005, 07:57 AM

I got the hubs delivered at 3:30 in the afternoon and though it was 5 degrees out I still managed to get one on effortlessly. The bitter cold prevented me from getting the second on but the next day it warmed up to 23 degrees and a light snow. I got the second on, however I broke two of the studs rather easily. After reading about the studs loosening on a couple threads I read, I decided to use two nuts tightened against each other to then have something to screw them in with. I must not of realized I bottomed out and snapped the stud where to the two nuts came in contact. Not much of a problem taking it out as there was about 5/16s of the stud still remaining for vicegrips to grab. I broke the second tightening the nuts to secure the hub housing. Damn thing never really felt completelytighened before it snapped. Kind of wished they were a bit more hardened. That one will have to be replaced at a later time. Had to lock'em that night as the light snow kept up enough to coat the roads and hills with a couple inches. Can't wait for the nor'easter coming this weekend and seeing if plowing is going to be a bit easier with all wheels turning! Thanks for the help guys.

**88pathoffroad** · Jan 23rd, 2005, 04:27 AM

Yeah, the studs suck and break easily. Use hex head bolts instead. Grade 5 bolts are better than the studs.