Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Socket - Nissan Forum
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#1 Old Jun 14th, 2004, 07:56 PM
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Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Socket

Hey guys:

I'm planning on putting on new front brake pads, and either having the rotors cut (if enough material exists) or putting on new ones. I think I've got the procedure down, except for removing the wheel bearing lock nut. In one photo journal I saw, they were using a very large socket with two "tangs" on it, to engage the holes in the lock nut. Is this a standard 4wd wheel bearing socket? I'm not going to have to get a special tool from Nissan or anything for this, am I? Other than that, the process appears pretty straight-forward.

I do remember advising someone here that a Haynes manual would probably be good enough to do the brake job. For a 2wd truck, it is. It doesn't mention the 4wd hub removal at all for the 4x4 trucks. Fortunately, I found Hawaiian Hardbody's website and his photos showed me the way.

Jason Adcock
Always Tread Lightly!
1995 4x4 XE King Cab - 189,000 miles
1997 Cadillac Seville - 141,000 miles
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#2 Old Jun 14th, 2004, 09:04 PM
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You don't need a special tool to get the locknut socket off since it should only have 1ft.lb of torque, it's setting the preload of 50 ft.lbs or so that you can't do without the special tool. I've got the OTC7698 locknut socket ordered over the internet.

Here's a discussion on the options:

http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/sho...rue#Post285186


Surprisingly the Haynes manual does have some good writeup and pics on the hub removal, check the bearing repack section in general maintenance.

1997 Pathfinder XE
Air Lift Air Bags, Warn Hubs
#3 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 06:47 AM
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Iím not sure about your truck jadcock, but the bearing lock nut tool for a DANA 60 is the perfect tool for my Pahty.
#4 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewisnc100
Surprisingly the Haynes manual does have some good writeup and pics on the hub removal, check the bearing repack section in general maintenance.
Thanks for the reply. It looks like I'll look for the Isuzu socket, but plan to buy the one for Chevy if I can't find the Jap. tool. The most my Haynes manual had, in any section, was a basic drawing of the hub internal parts, and nowhere did it show the lock nut (with the holes) or any tool needed. That's why I went searching on the Internet -- because the Haynes manual didn't show me clearly how the bearings are held to the hub. Maybe we have two different Haynes manuals.

Jason Adcock
Always Tread Lightly!
1995 4x4 XE King Cab - 189,000 miles
1997 Cadillac Seville - 141,000 miles
#5 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 07:23 AM
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Forgot you have a 95 truck, maybe they are different manuals. Also make sure the wheel/bearing assemblies are the same, I was thinking it was a Pathfinder. The hardest part of the job on the Pathfinder is getting the stupid dust cap and drive flange off, everything else is easy.

If you want I can measure the diameter of the OTC locknut socket I've got, maybe you can confirm the dimensions for your locknut are the same.

1997 Pathfinder XE
Air Lift Air Bags, Warn Hubs
#6 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewisnc100
The hardest part of the job on the Pathfinder is getting the stupid dust cap and drive flange off, everything else is easy.
Yeah those things are really on there. I can see why Nissan recommends using new caps when you are working on the hubs.

I just had a thouhgt jadcock, the Pathy has two o-rings on the drive flange. I wonder if your truck will have the same setup. If it does I highly recommend replacing the o-rings and slathering them with grease for the installation. Also, I didnít get quite enough grease on the dust boot around the spndle and I had a horrible squeak from the front until I realized that I needed more grease on that boot.
#7 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 08:41 AM
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Mine doesn't have a dust cap. The Haynes manual mentioned removing the dust cap, loosening the lock nut, and sliding the whole assembly out. That's what I did on my old Cutlass (obviously, 2wd). I figured the instructions in the Haynes manual was for the 2wd trucks. It's completely different for 4wd, with manual hubs.

Here's a link to the site that helped me out:

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/haw...dy/brakes.html

With the exception of the hubs (he has Superwinch, I have OE), I expect (hope) everything on mine to be pretty much the same as his. I need to buy the socket and a pair of snap ring pliers, and I plan to tackle this job this weekend.

Jason Adcock
Always Tread Lightly!
1995 4x4 XE King Cab - 189,000 miles
1997 Cadillac Seville - 141,000 miles
#8 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 10:17 AM
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The pictures on the site look the same as ours, although the 72ft.lbs was quite a bit higher for the preload than the pathfinder I think, you definitely need a locknut socket for that torque. It will take some effort to get the hub to turn with that preload, but will get the bearings seated good.

Also make sure you get new inner grease seals for the back of the hub, the ones at the dealer seat the best. I got some at an auto parts store and they didn't have a lip, ended up having to take one side back off and replace that seal. Some people try to save them but for only $10 or less a seal it's worth it to replace them IMO.

1997 Pathfinder XE
Air Lift Air Bags, Warn Hubs
#9 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewisnc100
Also make sure you get new inner grease seals for the back of the hub, the ones at the dealer seat the best. I got some at an auto parts store and they didn't have a lip, ended up having to take one side back off and replace that seal. Some people try to save them but for only $10 or less a seal it's worth it to replace them IMO.
Thanks for the tip there. I wasn't going to replace any seal that I didn't have to physically remove. Everything is sealing fine now, and I was hoping to leave it that way...and just sneak some new rotors on there. I don't think I'll go to the store until I get it apart and see what I think I need.

In fact, in reference to your other point, at least one side on the front seems excessively hard to turn. I had the right tire off the other day, checking on the pads and rotors (and deciding to replace), and the rotor itself was pretty hard to turn. I'll have to verify, when I put everything back together, that the caliper isn't sticking on that side. There's not much brake dust at all, so I doubt it's the caliper. I had to have one of the studs on that wheel replaced shortly after I got the truck...my mechanic who was doing a VA state safety inspection noticed that one of the studs' threads was dorked up. Maybe he tightened that lock nut too tight.

Thanks again for your help.

Jason Adcock
Always Tread Lightly!
1995 4x4 XE King Cab - 189,000 miles
1997 Cadillac Seville - 141,000 miles

Last edited by jadcock; Jun 15th, 2004 at 11:18 AM.
#10 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 11:49 AM
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Jadcock, you have plenty of miles on the Nissan. I re-built my calipers for $12 with a kit from www.precisionbrakescompany.com and boy did they need it on the Pathy at 142,000 miles. The dust boots were not cracked, but they were very dry and brittle. I suggest the extra Ĺ hour and money to replace the seals and the boots on the calipers. This may also help with any dragging from a caliper as the hydraulic seal helps to return the piston into the caliper.
#11 Old Jun 15th, 2004, 11:50 AM
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I was assuming you would be repacking the bearings while you were in there, sure you don't want to go ahead and repack since you're already got everything apart. Just remove that inner seal and you've got the inner bearing ready for grease.

1997 Pathfinder XE
Air Lift Air Bags, Warn Hubs
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