A cool dude on here pointed me at Rear Axle Control Arm Bushings as the likely cause of a clunk in my rear - but, I dont know how big a job it is to get them replaced, and since I'm in Acapulco, I'll need to buy the part in the US and bring it down here.
Is it a do - it - yourself, or do you need a hoist etc?
Replacing the rear control arm bushings usually requires a press or at the very least a bench vise and blocks of wood. Some people report being able to do the job easily with the bench vise, other people have had to take it to a shop to have the old ones pressed out and the new popped in. If you get replacements, get polyurethane bushings instead of stock rubber ones. They'll last longer and squeak less.
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'88 Pathfinder: 6" of lift, 33x13.50 Swamper LTB's, Rancho 9000's, L&P Stage 3 steering system, K&N, Pacesetter headers and 2.5" exhaust, Lock-Right locker, 110A alty and electric fan swap, dual batteries, 700W+ worth of PIAAs, etc.
I’ve done this job twice on my truck. The first time I had to cut off one of the lower control arm bolts which is a very common problem when replacing the control arm bushings. I suggest buying at least a pair of new bolts and nuts. All of the nuts are the same size, 6 of the 8 bolts are the same length. That said, I was in a hurry about a month ago when I replaced my control arm bushings with the poly-urethane bushings from Automotive Customizers in FL. I used one of the six longer bolts in a position for one of the two shorter bolts. I reviewed what I had done and decided that unless I hear or see signs of the bolt interfering with the rear sway control end link I will leave it be. It has been several hundred miles, I’ve towed my boat, driven on the highway as well as back country mountain roads and all seems to be well. All of this is leading to my suggestion to buy complete arms with bushings from http://www.nissanpartsdistributor.com or anywhere else that you can find them. That is unless you really want the poly bushings.
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