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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 06:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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few questions

i recently purchased a 96 nissan 4cyl manual xe pickup my questions are what type of engine do i have ? and whats a hardbody pickup? and does my engine have a timing belt or timing chain? does it have a plastic or metal tension bar and guides? is it a interference engine?it has 120,000 miles should be worring about the timing issues? sorry for all the question ..thanks in advance
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 08:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gojo71
i recently purchased a 96 nissan 4cyl manual xe pickup my questions are what type of engine do i have ? and whats a hardbody pickup? and does my engine have a timing belt or timing chain? does it have a plastic or metal tension bar and guides? is it a interference engine?it has 120,000 miles should be worring about the timing issues? sorry for all the question ..thanks in advance

That is the KA24E, 2.4L, single overhead-cam engine, 12-valves (3 per cylinder). It has a timing chain. The original chain tensioner is plastic, but the replacements are usually steel. The engine makes 134hp and 154ft-lbs of torque.

The 'hardbody' is just a reference to the construction. It's just a very rigid body-on-frame design, and it's known to be very robust.

The timing chain makes a chattering noise when you first start the truck after it sits for a few minutes... this is normal. The noise is the chain operating without any oil on it, and it takes a few seconds for it to pick up oil.

And lastly, it's a great truck.
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 08:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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[quote=Yontrop]That is the KA24E, 2.4L, single overhead-cam engine, 12-valves (3 per cylinder). It has a timing chain. The original chain tensioner is plastic, but the replacements are usually steel. The engine makes 134hp and 154ft-lbs of torque.

The 'hardbody' is just a reference to the construction. It's just a very rigid body-on-frame design, and it's known to be very robust.

The timing chain makes a chattering noise when you first start the truck after it sits for a few minutes... this is normal. The noise is the chain operating without any oil on it, and it takes a few seconds for it to pick up oil.

And lastly, it's a great truck. thanks for the info but is this a interference engine?
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 09:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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but is it a interference engine meaning if the timing jumps will it ruin valves in the head?
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Old Jun 10th, 2004, 10:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm not quite sure on what an 'interference' engine is, exactly. Someone else on this forum oughta know.

EDIT: Oh, do you mean if the valves can be struck by the pistons? If the timing is off, I suppose so. The pistons in the truck are flathead, but I'm not sure how much room the chamber provides at top-dead center. It could be a possibility.

If you're replacing the cam, make sure it's perfect.
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 05:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yontrop has given a very good definition/description. By your definition of interference engine, that could happen to any engine any time the timing belt/chain breaks. I have never heard the term but what do I know? It is a great truck.
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 08:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I THINK the engine is an interference engine, meaning that it is possible for the valves to touch the pistons. This is not the case with all engines. Many domestic V8s have lower compression ratios and dished pistons, and it's physically impossible for the valves to touch the pistons. But most newer engines, especially those with higher compression ratios, are usually interference engines.
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 05:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have question about timing chain noise at start up is it because the oil is not staying on the chain so it runs dry. Oil not thick enough or what?
I used to have a 280Z and it will start on first try , and I never heard a rattle or noise come from the chain or anything like my Nissan truck.

Also the time it take the engine to pickup oil from filter and deliver it to major components of engine have anything to do with it. For example the position of the filter if it is verticle (facing down)the oil will drain back to the pan will take longer ,but if its like old chevys facing up where the oil stays in the filter it won't take as long. Or the main bearings could have more clearance than normal resulting in low oil pressure at start up. And does the grade of oil you use effect it, using thin oil doesn't stay on metal surfaces as good but shoot through oil jet at normal rate or too thick which take forever to shoot oil through the oil jet however stays on metal surfaces longer.
Almost forgot the grade of oil I used on that 280Z was Castrol 20W-50@ every 1500 miles . I could feel the differance in the accel pedal once I change the oil it would rev easier . Not sure if that was the proper grade I suppost to use. down here in Texas
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 05:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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20W-50 would be way too thick for your truck. The recommended oil weight is 5W-30. I use 10W-30 on my 184k-mile engine. The timing chain noise is due, usually, to a worn guide or worn chain. I think it also may have something to do with the tensioner needing "pumping up", but I'm not sure on that. Mine starts cold quietly. But if I start it after a short hot soak (10 minutes to even a few hours), it'll clatter like a diesel. No big deal I guess -- it's been doing this for who knows how long. I pulled my cam cover last year and everything near the chain actually looks very good. I think Nissan valve trains are just plain noisey. My brother-in-law's previous car, a '96 200SX with the GA16DE engine, rattled all the time at startup.
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Old Jun 11th, 2004, 08:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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So are the tensioners that are on the ka24e engine spring loaded hydraulic or pressure feed. It would make sense to use spring loaded hydraulic tensioner to keep tension at all times. I used to have a 78 porsche 911 that had spring loaded hydraulic tensioner which was all stock. Now on the 911s 1973- 1983 it is a upgrade to have pressure feed tensioner since the spring loaded ones would eventually collapse from seals and other things, this was a big problem that was fixed with the introduction of the 1984 Carrera.And when that upgrade was done the tensioner had to be primed before installed to insure oil was in it. Luckly the 911 I owned hadn't collapse and had collars to prevent the tensioner from fully colapsing.
Jadcock I am not familiar with the ka24e engine but you said the tensioner need pumping up is there an oil port that supplys this tensioner to pump up or no. One thing I miss is an oil pressure gauge. Compare to hondas the nissan oil pressure light takes a bit longer to disappear in start ups. But then again hondas don't need to supply oil to timing belts which is one less port for the oil to travel. I prefer chain vs belt hands down.
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Old Jun 12th, 2004, 09:18 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhernandez1566
Jadcock I am not familiar with the ka24e engine but you said the tensioner need pumping up is there an oil port that supplys this tensioner to pump up or no. One thing I miss is an oil pressure gauge. Compare to hondas the nissan oil pressure light takes a bit longer to disappear in start ups. But then again hondas don't need to supply oil to timing belts which is one less port for the oil to travel. I prefer chain vs belt hands down.
Well, like I said, I'm not 100% positive if the tensioner is run on hydraulic pressure. It would make sense that it is, just based on the symptoms (noisy chain for a few seconds at startup, due to the tensioner not "pumped up"). I agree that a tensioner supplemented by a spring would be better. But what's even better is a ratcheting tensioner, like what's used on my other car. The tensioner isn't driven by oil pressure I don't think -- I think it's just spring pressure. But it has a ratcheting mechanism, to take into account any chain stretch that might occur over the life of the car. Test mules go 300-400k miles without any timing chain wear. It'll outlast the engine.

I completely agree with you on the chain/belt issue. Belts are cheap and easy to engineer. Chains are more expensive to engineer, but won't break, and IF DONE RIGHT, will be completely silent in the field.
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Old Jun 16th, 2004, 04:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Exclamation

Your timing chain tensioner needs replaced if it is making noise! They have a tendency of breaking off around the mount. The tensioner also has a piece of plastic the rides against the chain that wears out. Replace the chain and tensioner at the same time, you also may conceder replacing the seals while your at it.

This is an interference engine (all Nissan's are except the minivan) On this engine breaking a timing chain will not only bend the valves but also pop holes in the piston tops. If you DIY be sure you have the timing set right! Pull the #1 plug, check your timing mark, make sure your at TDC and your cam sprocket is on the mark!

My friend decided to replace his timing chain and broken tensioner last month, did not double check his timing. Needles to say he bent 3 valves and put holes in 2 pistons. $800 for a used engine a case of beer for labor...
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