I have a 97' hardbody 2wd daily driver with the KA24E engine with about 60k miles on it that has an annoying rattle at startup for the first few seconds after starting. It always had a small rattle(fraction of a second) at startup since I've had it(the past 30k miles) but has slowly been getting progressively worse in sound and duration to around 2 seconds now. How many miles do these engines usually go before needing a timing chain & tensioner replacement? I find nothing in the service manual about T.Chain replacement intervals. Performancewise this motor has always been on the weak side in my opinion. I always get left pretty bad at the stoplight by all the other Nissan trucks so I'm thinking somethings not right somewhere. Maybe the chain is stretched or possibly jumped a tooth? I haven't had a chance to check the compression on it or ignition timing yet. Also I did switch over to the Mobil1 sythetic oil when I first bought it but it didn't seem to make any noticible difference in the sound of the rattle. Any links pertaining to this particular engine with any info original or performance oriented appreciated. Also what would be the most cost effective mod to get some more horses and fuel mileage out of this engine...a header?? I have only worked on Fords/Chevys in my past and am just not familiar with Nissans at least yet.
I have had an 87 hardbody and now have a 93. My friends at work all have nissan's. The valve rattle at start up is just an inherant nissan trait. I put 130k on the 87 and have 120 on the 93. The rattle is simply the valves not getting oil for the first few seconds, in my opinion. I added duralube to my 93 and this seemed to lessen the rattle, but it will never go away. Don't worry about it, they all do it.
My 98 Frontier(KA24DE) has 190k on it,and has had the rattle for about 80k of the most abusive driving you can imagine with no problems yet,so I wouldn't worry about it.I have heard that there is a timing chain tensioner that wears out,so you might want to look into that if you're worried.I don't think it has jumped timing since it wouldn't idle right ,if at all, if it had.I have recently switched to 10w40 oil and that seems to make the oil light turn off quicker in my high mile engine on starup.
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1998 Nissan Frontier XE/2wd/5spd 1 owner, 264k miles
1985 Olds Cutlass, 350 Chevy, owned for 14 years
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I've seen the KA24E in the boneyards with 60-300k miles with "bad engine" labels. I guess it all depends on maintenance interval, abuse/neglect level, and oil/filter choices.
What weight oil are you using? Change interval? Brand/PN of filter?
Hey I have a '96 with the KA24E (140k) and the same noise. At first I thought it was the timing chain but I brought it to a mechanic and the chain and guides were fine, so I guess it's just the valve clatter that's common among these vehicles. You might want to take a peek at the chain just to be sure, but otherwise I wouldn't worry.
Had to replace the timing chain on my 96 4x4 at 60,000 miles but it wold rattle all the time expecially when idleing. Had a 93 that went 140,000 with no problems when I sold it.
I'll put my $0.02 in here too. I have a '95 with 173k miles (almost 174k now) and it really runs like a dream. It doesn't really have a rattle at startup, but sometimes has a slight tick when it's cold out. I think it's all part of the valvetrain that Nissan designed that for some reason, bleeds out pretty quickly (means, loses oil overnight).
Use a Nissan oil filter for the 300zx -- that's supposed to stop some of the startup rattling. I'm using the Nissan filter now and if there was any rattling at startup, it's gone now.
But like the others have said, there should be nothing to worry about -- as long as that rattle goes away after a few seconds.
I have a 97' hardbody 2wd daily driver with the KA24E engine with about 60k miles on it that has an annoying rattle at startup for the first few seconds after starting. It always had a small rattle(fraction of a second) at startup since I've had it(the past 30k miles) but has slowly been getting progressively worse in sound and duration to around 2 seconds now. How many miles do these engines usually go before needing a timing chain & tensioner replacement? I find nothing in the service manual about T.Chain replacement intervals. Performancewise this motor has always been on the weak side in my opinion. I always get left pretty bad at the stoplight by all the other Nissan trucks so I'm thinking somethings not right somewhere. Maybe the chain is stretched or possibly jumped a tooth? I haven't had a chance to check the compression on it or ignition timing yet. Also I did switch over to the Mobil1 sythetic oil when I first bought it but it didn't seem to make any noticible difference in the sound of the rattle. Any links pertaining to this particular engine with any info original or performance oriented appreciated. Also what would be the most cost effective mod to get some more horses and fuel mileage out of this engine...a header?? I have only worked on Fords/Chevys in my past and am just not familiar with Nissans at least yet.
hi- local dealer told me to always use nissan oil filters and 5w-30 oil. since i've been doing that, no noise so far even at way below zero temps.
moxie
Actually you can have a chain rattle and a lifter rattle at startup. Because the tensioner on the chain is spring loaded and oil pressurized. The spring can get a little weak and this would cause the chain rattle @startup. As far as lifter rattle, I installed new lifters and they rattle. The only way to get them to stop would be to pressurize the oil system before starting the engine. (well you could pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine until the oil pressure light went off. Then start it. But that would fry your starter)
I wouldn't worry about any startup rattles though it just the way they are. I felt bad about mine rattling until I heard one with 40k on it do the same thing.
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96 purple pickup. 91 SER
exedy clutch ...... JDM SR20
9.5 to 1 pistons .. ACT HD00
16lb flywheel ..... ES mounts
As many have said the oil pump tensions the chain when pressure builds. The noise you hearing is the chain rubbing the guides until its tightened. Early kas had a problem with guides breaking but mos late 95s and newer are supposdto have metal guides. Chains should be good for 300k or more if the oil is changed on schedule.
i have a 97 4x4 with the 24e. i had the same noise. the plastic on one of the timing chain guides came apart so the chain would rattle on the steel. i replaced everything and the noise went away. i use 20w50 cause it has 152k. one book recommended a timing chain replace every 30k. it was a pain but not as bad as some ive done.
Dude..PLEASE..for the love of Nissans DONT use 20/50W!.. its way too heavy a weight!
I tried it in my 92 KA24 for a short time, and had much longer tapping at the lifters, as well as slow startup speeds when cold and I lost almost 3 Mpg.
I know for a fact that a good flowing 10/30W beats the living crap out of a thick engine oil like 20/50W for engine longevity.
I used to sell oil, and recommendations state that even with high temp situations (like over 100degrees F) and if you tow, and have around 250-300Hp, THEN you can use 20/50W!
10/40W is a little easier on a smaller motor, but it doesnt have the additive packages that 10/30W Does, and though 5/30W is a "factory" recommended weight with many companies, I feel its a bit too light, has poor shear strength on engine parts during highspeed operation in warm weather (not enough cushioning) and only gains about 1 mpg and slightly faster pumpability over 10/30W and is used "primarily" for the CAFE standards to meet govt ratings!.. No Joke!
Smaller engines love 10/30W, its the most balanced for how most people drive.
If you have a big V8 with massive power.. 20/50W is realistic as you probably work it hard.. Although, I still say dont use 20/50W in the Winter. Use 10/40W.. And it still makes sense to use 10/30W in the winter on even a large motor when its very cold.
If you drive 30 Mph in a 35, and 65mph in a 70, then 5/30 is ok.. Its meant for "unrealistic" interpretations of when you need to change your oil and what weight to use.
Many suggest 6500-7500 Miles oil Changes. (this is nonsense unless you drive on flat road and only on the hwy) and 3000-4000K tops is more realistic for the typical user and how they drive stop and go, and varying speeds on the highway and temperature variations such as cooler and cold weather are not taken into account.
I read consumer reports running tests on taxicabs and how various oil change schedules were, and they said there is little or no difference in engine oils.
Well, in the test, they FAILED to make one very important set of tests. COLD starts.
They just ran the crap out of them Hot all the time with constant lubrication and said there is very little diff between oils! Well DUH!.. Engines all act different cold, and warm up different. The Additive packages work hard during these periods.. and not all oils are created equal in this regard.
As a rule.. 10/30W is everyones best working weight oil Period.
We sold 90% of sales to 10/30W all times of the year.
Less than 2% of our annual Sales were 20/50W. And only 3% was 5/30 and 5% 10/40W.
7 Years of Being a Parts store manager teaches quite a bit about people and thier habits. LOL
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Had the same problem with my '97. After tearing down the timing chain cover, oil pan, etc., I found the problem causing the rattling sound you mentioned. The timing chain guide's have plastic over them, which had broken off and was lying in the oil pan, thus causing the timing chain to have too much slack. After replacing the chain, guides, tensioner, etc., the engine is now as quiet as it was when new. When I did the repairs, it had 120K on the truck. Now has 129K, still quiet and running well. Hope this help....
My '97 rattles at startup also. I've been wanting to replace the chain and everything on it for a while now, but I just don't have the time. But mine has rattled on startup ever since I bought it (March of '03). It hasn't gotten any worse since then, though. I've heard a lot of sources say that the noise is normal, and a few saying that the guide falls off.
Either way, I intend on doing the chain sooner or later. If it turns out to be OK in the first place, I'll do it anyway, because you have to break all that crap down anyway, hah.
KA24E Engine Timing Chain Question
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