I have a 88' Nissan desert Runner, 6-v, rare ,rusty, Hope someone can help me. I have replaced the starter and the starter relay, because the truck just stopped "starting" . I have also checked the voltage on the "in dash interlock" a factory option, and it has 12 volts, the clutch switch has no voltage nor is there any voltage going to the relay on either black and yellow lead.There is 12 volts coming back from the new starter to the coupling at the battery. Has anyone else had this problem?Is it possibly the ignition switch?
Oh, I also removed and cleaned the ground wire at the body and engine, this didn't help either. Any help greatly appreciated..
You haven't really described what is going on here so I will try from various points.
1. Is there any noise at all from the starter when you turn the key? Do the headlights dim? Do you get power to everything else?
Headlights dimming when key turned indicates power getting to starter but starter locked or a broken battery post clamp. The buss mounted on the battery terminal is subject to corrosion and may cause the keyswitch not to get power. The interlock you speak of temporarily bypasses the clutch switch so the truck can be started in neutral with the clutch engaged.
If there is no noise, test key switch, clutch switch, starter solenoid, battery.
If there is noise (click), check starter, battery.
If the starter turns but not the engine, check starter/flywheel.
If the starter/engine turns, but no start, check for available fuel/spark.
Hope this helps, write back with more info if you can. Good Luck
__________________
Aaron Ford
95 2WD Nissan PU E
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue GX
"The hard part about playing chicken is knowing when to flinch" Scott Glenn in The Hunt for Red October
You haven't really described what is going on here so I will try from various points.
1. Is there any noise at all from the starter when you turn the key? Do the headlights dim? Do you get power to everything else?
Headlights dimming when key turned indicates power getting to starter but starter locked or a broken battery post clamp. The buss mounted on the battery terminal is subject to corrosion and may cause the keyswitch not to get power. The interlock you speak of temporarily bypasses the clutch switch so the truck can be started in neutral with the clutch engaged.
If there is no noise, test key switch, clutch switch, starter solenoid, battery.
If there is noise (click), check starter, battery.
If the starter turns but not the engine, check starter/flywheel.
If the starter/engine turns, but no start, check for available fuel/spark.
Hope this helps, write back with more info if you can. Good Luck
Hi, thanks for the response. I will go over the situation again. The starter and starter relay are brand new. There is no click from the starter or starter relay. The headlights and all other electrical components are unaffected. The lights do not dim when I try to start the truck. there is no current going to the starter relay from any of the 4 leads. The truck will coast-off and start/run just fine. Also, there is no current going to the clutch/safety switch. The starter tests as having 12 volts at the starter, grounds are all good, clean. All wires on the back of the buss(at the pos bat.cable, show full 12 volts going through. Turn the key, nothing happens. I have checked all connections and all are fine, clean and tight. I just wonder if this might be the ignition switch?
I just wonder if this might be the ignition switch?
It sounds to me like it's either the ignition switch or the clutch interlock switch. You should be able to remove the wires from the clutch switch and check continuity across it while it's both open and closed. If it's always open (not conducting current) no matter what the position of the switch, that should be the problem. If that switch seems to be working correctly, I would then suspect the ignition switch. Since your lights don't seem to dim and you don't hear any clicking, it sounds like one of the switches in the cabin as you are suspecting.
[quote=jadcock]It sounds to me like it's either the ignition switch or the clutch interlock switch. You should be able to remove the wires from the clutch switch and check continuity across it while it's both open and closed. If it's always open (not conducting current) no matter what the position of the switch, that should be the problem. If that switch seems to be working correctly, I would then suspect the ignition switch. Since your lights don't seem to dim and you don't hear any clicking, it sounds like one of the switches in the cabin as you are suspecting.[/QUOTE
Oh well, no-go again. I checked the ignition switch and it has 4 conductors, The starter wire carries 12 volts when the key is turned completely over so the switch is good. I disconnected the clutch switch and put a jumper on it. There is no current on either wire on the clutch switch with the ignition on or off. The interlock in dash , I put a jumper here too, still no start.
There is obviously something keeping the voltage from reaching the clutch switch and the starter relay..Time for some serious head scratching??? Thanks for the help, any more suggestions?
Well it sounds like you have done your homework. The interlock merely serves as a bypass for the clutch swith, so if it were the clutch switch, you should be able to start the truck via the interlock and vice/versa. So it sounds like the clutch switch is good. Not to sound like the guy above, it sounds like you have some wires to trace. Perhaps someone has a wiring diagram for this system. Perhaps find the wire that carries 12v+ from the start position of the switch and the corresponding wire on the starter and do some continuity testing....
Something comes to memory about fusible links mounted near the starter. But I am not sure about this... May have been on my Cavalier...
__________________
Aaron Ford
95 2WD Nissan PU E
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue GX
"The hard part about playing chicken is knowing when to flinch" Scott Glenn in The Hunt for Red October
Kim -- that's for a '95 model, the only info I have. But hopefully, it'll get you started on some of the wiring to trace your problem on your '88.
Well, after all this, still no start. I have checked the ignition switch and it is working to specs. the mystery appears to be centering on one question.. Why is there absolutely no current going to the starter relay?? That is what appears to be the problem but there is no manual available showing the exact route of the hot wire from the ignition switch to the starter relay.... hmmmm. Maybe time for the old dependable "push button replacement " starter ???