2drcam

do you usually change the pully, spring, and nut or just the pully?

thanks

nissannut

I change whatever comes with the new pulley. I use genuine nissan parts for the timing area. But I cannot remember what came in the box last time..

Did you get a new spring and nut???

__________________
Barry
1993 King Cab SE 4wd- SAS, 35s 3link
1992 Pathfinder SE 4wd - SAS 33s 3link
http://nissannut.com

2drcam

i did not change the tensioner. but i called nissan and they gave me a quote on the tensioner for 89.00. i don't know if that comes with the spring or not. this weekend i'm going to get it all...a new pully, spring, and nut.

btw do you know what the torque specs are for the tensioner?

thanks

96R50

32-43 ft-lb.

2drcam

oops....should have specified. is that for the bolt on the tensioner or the tension on the timing belt?

thanks

96R50

32-43 ft-lb is the torque for the tensioner pulley bolt.

2drcam

what's the spec for the tension on the belt?? how tight should that belt be?

thanks

96R50

Belt tension check.

Cold engine, #1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke.

Measure belt deflection mid-span between the camshaft sprockets. The belt should deflect 0.51”-0.59” when a 22# force is applied. Keep in mind that this is for my 3.3L engine. I think that it is the same for the 3.0L engine. May be someone can verify this for me.

2drcam

ok, get this. i went to the dealer today to get the tensioner pully (100.00 mind you...wtf) and i asked for a couple of torque specs and settings. the mechanic came out and said the bolt on the pully was 14 ft/lbs of torque. i asked what the belt deflection was supposed to be he told there wasn't one. he told me just to let the spring on the tensioner pull the belt and that would make it tight enough. i said to myself....WTF. nice specs. so what spec do i use....96r50 or the mechanic with "just until it's tight".... ummm... i'll go with 96r50.

thanks

96R50

Do you have the Haynes or Chilton manual? Several people have recommended using the Haynes/Chilton manual along with the factory service manual. The after market manuals are directed to the DIY mechanic who doesn’t have nor does he want to buy all of the special service tools. I’m sure that these manuals cover timing belt changes including torque specifications and belt deflection checks.

As for letting the spring set the tension. When I changed my timing belt the spring didn’t even come close to setting the tension properly. I’m pretty sure that the spring is there to help the lone mechanic hold the belt in place while reaching for the allen wrench and box wrench used to secure the tensioner pulley.

2drcam

ok, the timing is perfect now. the crank pully was off 1 tooth. it has much better throttle response now. however, i'm still getting a bad vibration on idle. BUT i have NO power loss....i'm stumped, could a sensor or something blown when the timing went??

becasue if a valve or piston were bad then i know i would loose a lot of power. could i have fouled out a plug?? if i ran diagnostics on it could something possibly come up??

thanks for all the info keep em` coming.

jadcock

With all the work done to the truck recently, a plug or wire may have become damaged or something and you might be getting a misfire at idle. Check all the plugs and wires for good connections. I'd check the routing of all the wires (to eliminate the possibility that they're cross-firing) and maybe even check the coil(s). Someone else will probably have some additional advice. That's what I'd check first though.

__________________
Jason Adcock
Always Tread Lightly!
1995 4x4 XE King Cab - 189,000 miles
1997 Cadillac Seville - 141,000 miles

2drcam

ok...i wanted to add one more thing. when i start the car in the morning it doesn't seem to have the high idle like it's supposed to have. what i mean is upon ignition the rpm's go to about 1200, but it's supposed to go to about 1800-2000 rpm's and gradually decrease until it's at normal operating temperature. I also get black smoke out the exhaust as if it were running very rich(only in the morning when it first starts up for about 1-2 minutes). maybe this information may pinpoint a diagnosis more.

thanks

96R50

Again, for the 3.3L I would check and adjust if necessary the FIC (fast idle cam).

Initial check and adjustment procedure. Use a thermocouple to verify an engine temperature of 77 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 9 degrees Fahrenheit. The centerline of the cam follower lever should be inline with the inner mark on the fast idle cam. Note that the cam follower lever is on the throttle body where the accelerator cable attaches. There is an adjustment screw and lock nut below the fast idle cam.

Final checks, Step 1 - Disconnect the engine temperature sensor from the wiring harness. Attach a DVOM (digital volt ohmmeter) to the temperature sensor. Run the engine and verify that the centerline of the cam follower is inline with the inner most mark on the FIC when the temperature sensor resistance is 1.65k – 2.4k ohm.

Step 2 – Continue running the engine to normal operating temperature 176 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 9 degrees Fahrenheit. The resistance of the engine temperature sensor should be 0.26k – 0.39k ohm. Check that the centerline of the cam follower is in line with the outermost mark on the FIC.

If no good replace the thermo-element (that which drives the FIC) and perform the above inspection again.