A couple problems with my steering. First, I know that I need an alignment, but I am wondering if it can fix all my problems. I am noticing that my steering is starting to feel loose, I also notice some oversteer when I am going around corners. If I go in for an alignment what other things can I expect them to tell me are wrong and need to be replaced? Are the steering components, tie-rods, etc things that a non-expert can work on at home? I fear going in and finding out I need my steering system replaced for a couple thousand dollars. Might it also be the wheel bearings?
I have 105k on my 4x4 se. My brake pads in the front are fairly new and I don't think I am having any problems with the brakes.
Bearings should be easy to check, just raise up the front and check for play in the wheels by pulling/pushing at the top and bottom of the wheel. You should get no play at all, if you do then you need to check out the bearings. Also the TSB on the Pathfinder steering shimmy at highway speeds says to do an alignment which you are already doing, but if that doesn't work then they should check the Steering Rack Sliding Force. Looks like a quick measurement and adjustment if its not right. I know that TSB was for the high speed shimmy but maybe its something to look into if the alignment doesn't get rid of everything.
Originally posted by lewisnc100 Bearings should be easy to check, just raise up the front and check for play in the wheels by pulling/pushing at the top and bottom of the wheel. You should get no play at all, if you do then you need to check out the bearings....
Just a quick note on this...
I have found that movement in the wheel when checking the bearings this way, can sometimes be a sign of loose ball joints as well. What I like to do is remove the wheel to make it easier to determine which parts are in fact moving.
I raise the vehicle, and remove the wheel. I then take a couple off "box-end" wrenches that fit over the wheel lugs (on opposing lugs). Then use the lug nuts to tighten down on the wrenches - just hand tight usually works - not over tight. You've now got a couple of "handles" to use to move the rotor/hub around, up and down, side to side, etc. (since the hubs alone are hard to get good leverage on).
Doing it this way, if only the hub moves on the spindle (all the joints & knuckles stay still), then the bearings are loose. However, if ball joints or tie-rods move around, you can see this as well.
As far as doing front end work yourself, you do need some good sockets, wrenches, etc, 'cause some of the nuts and bolts can be pretty tight. You would also need "pickle forks" or some other form for separators for all the tapered shafts - ball joints, tie-rod ends, etc. These can often be borrowed or rented from parts stores.
Bottom line, I've done quite a few myself, and I'm not a mechanic by trade - just a guy who loves to get greasy and has spent the last 15 to 20 years collecting tools (toys).
I haven't noticed any swaying in the back end. It's just a strong oversteer. feels like it just wants to keep turning. I haven't taken the wheel off yet, but when I raised the wheel and tire off the ground, I notice there is some play back and forth. That is if I am looking at the tire and holding it on its right and left side and trying to move it back and forth. I will have to do what Zilverado said and take the wheel off.
Last edited by svneo : Oct 23rd, 2003 at 03:23 PM.
Yeah, I replaced both inner and outer bearings and races. When I took the bearings out and got a good look at the races they had started to gouge. That explained my symptoms of having a slight grinding/drag feeling from the front end. I was pretty surprised at how easy it was to work on the bearings with the right tools (snap ring pliers, locknut socket, bearing packer, brass punch, OEM inner seals). All parts were less than $100 and everything is carried at any local auto store, but I'd recommend getting the inner seals from the dealer. Some people reuse them but they're pretty cheap and I'd rather have a new seal. Also the only place to find the locknut socket is the internet unless you use a pin-spanner or get a close one and bend and grind the pins.
Originally posted by lewisnc100 ...Also the only place to find the locknut socket is the internet unless you use a pin-spanner or get a close one and bend and grind the pins.
Thanks for the pointers. As far as the locknut socket is concerned, 4 words says it all "...scrap metal and welder..."
It's pretty easy to weld some pins to a piece of pipe, weld on a nut on the end for the torque wrench and away you go. And with the minimal torque that's involved, you don't have to worry about the whole thing coming apart in your face.
I finally took the wheels off and took a look. It seems like the drivers side is the one that is off. With the wheel off, I can move the rotor and it wiggles a bit. More so than the other side. It does seem to be the rotor and none of the other parts, as far as I can tell.
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