I've changed the front pads on my '95 Hardbody myself and I didn't have a "c" clamp. I just used the wooden handle end of my hammer to gently push the piston back into the caliper. Just leave the brake fluid reservoir cap off (I just sit it ontop of the reservoir to keep stuff from getting into it and contaminating the fluid). This allows the brake fluid from the caliper to expand back into the reservoir. I did both front pads this way and had no problems getting them to recess. There was a tear in one of the boots that I'll have to replace, but at this point with my high mileage, I'll just replace the calipers and rotors when I get around to it. It's been about two years and the brake system works fine. I know the "c" clamp is recommended and it does work a little easier than pushing the piston back in, but if you don't have a "c" clamp, the hammer handle gets the job done...
Once you remove one of the two caliper bolts, the caliper will swing out of the way, exposing the pads. The pads simply slot into a groove on the brake carrier. Be sure to get the hardware kit from the dealer, which will include a new set of pad clips and a new set of shims. Pay close attention to the shim pattern, as there is a difference to which pad gets which shims.
Also, the rotors are not floating. They are bolted onto the hub via the auto-locking hubs. If you want to cut the rotors, the only easy way to do it is to cut 'em on the car (newer machines are made to do this, and do a great job).
Replacing the rotors is boatloads of work. You have to disassemble the entire 4X4 hub, which is not a simple task. After the swap, you have to reassemble the hub, repack it with grease, and seal it back up.
I'll try to post a series of images from the service manual later to help.
It's essentially the same amount of work for the Pathfinder. The removal and repressing of the bearing is not a simple task. It's up to you how much confidence you have, but just be aware that it's a lot more work than it seems.
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