Rusty Frame, Questions

jadcock · Jul 27th, 2003, 02:42 PM

Hey guys:

I just noticed a couple of weeks ago that the frame just behind my right front tire has a rusty streak on the outside, right down the middle. It's not completely rusted through, and I think it has a ways before it does go all the way through, but it kind of suprised me to see it, as the rest of the frame is pretty rust-free.

See the linked picture. You're looking down into the front wheel well, above/behind the right front tire. Mudflap is visible on the left edge of the picture. That rust-free piece with the hole in it on the very left side is the body mount, which looks like new. http://jadcock.oldsgmail.com/nissan/frame.jpg

My question is, do I need to do anything about this? This rust only affects the outer section of frame, which seems pretty thin anyway. It seems the real meat of the frame is the inner section, which is at least twice the gauge of the outer frame in this location. The rust "line" continues past the aforementioned body mount (you can see it through the hole), leading me to believe this possibly started as a deep scratch in the paint way back at the Nissan factory, before the body mount was even welded on.

Thoughts? Should I just sand and paint? I don't want to sand too much off for fear of going all the way through. But I don't really want to let it go if this is something I really need to fix. Can a body shop cut out that section and weld in a new piece? Do I need to do anything at all?

The truck has lots of miles, but I want to do all that I can to protect it to get as many miles out of it as I can.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

stevem5000 · Jul 27th, 2003, 03:09 PM

If you start scratching with a screwdriver or an awl, I think you will find that the rust is really only "surface" deep...maybe 1/32' into the metal...

Go ahead and sand and paint...hit it with undercoat paint also...

See if where you live if you have a Zebart store...they do undercoating...

They are very popular here in the St Louis area as we get a lot of wet snow and lot's of salt in the winter which promotes rust...

Here they rustproof a mini-pickup for about $200...I think it is WELL worth it...

Steve

aaronford · Jul 27th, 2003, 08:34 PM

Ditto, sand it and shoot it. Its superficial. If you d go all the way through, it would be better to know now than when it tacos on the rough stuff. Mine is alot worse, but it is from rock chips (coal country) and road salt. There is a question regarding undercoating a vehicle that already has contaminants on it. The rustproofing may work in reverse by sealing them against the metal and encouraging corrosion. Rustproofing is great for a new car where the only contaminant is cosmoline. Touch up what worries you, and be sure to rinse after salt exposure. When you wash be sure to clean above the rear fender lip (above tire), inside rear quarter (behind tire, cause thats where stuff collects), and under bed where rear filler panel joins main bed panel (behind, inside rear tire). Thats where these trucks seem to rust first.

jadcock · Jul 28th, 2003, 07:08 AM

Thanks for the replies. This is more than superficial, but not all the way through yet. But I could take a pick and easily push through it I think. I can push in with my thumb and hear the flakes of rust cracking.

My main question is...do I need to worry about it going all the way through? Is that a big problem, in this particular case? The main strength of the frame is the inner channel I think -- the outer channel adds strength for sure, but it's a much thinner piece. Most trucks and cars only have C-section frames anyway. Aaron -- you mentioned yours was much worse -- has it gone all the way through yet? I won't see any more salt here (south central North Carolina), but it still gets plenty wet from rain squals and I want to take care of it best I can for now.

Oh -- and the bed filler panel -- mine's already rusted a hole there, but I don't blame the truck for that. The P.O. had a plastic bedliner in it that created a lot of bare spots that easily rusted. That's why I want to fix them and seal them with a roll-on bedliner and THEN put a plastic liner back in. But that's another project.

CarGuy · Jul 28th, 2003, 06:08 PM

Jadcock,
I can't believe you would be getting a hole in your chassis - I would think only the extremes of weather could cause that to an 8 yr old truck. I would sand it down, paint, and monitor it. I think you are probably getting a lot of spreading surface rust from having your truck at the beach

I had a 4X4 S-10 with the same problem - HTH

Keep us posted

jadcock · Jul 28th, 2003, 07:12 PM

I can't believe it either. The only salt this truck has seen is from Virginia winters, which really aren't too bad. This is the first time it's ever been out of Virginia -- and I haven't even been to the beach with it yet!

But indeed, there is a hole already. I was poking around again today and poked through the frame right at that large body mount. But I really think that it's not so big a deal -- I'll just scuff the whole area up really good and paint it. I've done that already on a rear section of the frame rail that did just have surficial rust -- hit with some 120 grit and painted flat black and it really looks nice. I'll try the same here and see how I make out. Since I didn't get any "holy crap, get that thing to a frame shop fast" comments, I think I'm cool...

aaronford · Jul 28th, 2003, 09:48 PM

Holy Crap, a hole? Get it to a frame shop!!!! Nah, but I would suggest a good sandblasting or rigorous sanding and a coat of paint to the affected area, then bring it to a welding shop to have a patch panel fabricated and welded. I have never seen one rust through, even my old man's that was always crammed full of WV red clay mud. The brake lines rusted through and body mount bolts rusted off, but never the frame. My rust is only surface rust due to the black paint chipping off. Good Luck

1997XETruck · Jul 28th, 2003, 10:31 PM

Although I agree with Aaron that you may need professional help - I've found the best rust inhibitor on the market to be Loctite Extend. It used to be called Duro Extend. In any case it's available at Lowe's for about $6/can. I'd spray this anywhere you see rust - it turns black (supposedly converting it to a primer). All I know is that it works great.

Heath

jadcock · Jul 29th, 2003, 07:03 AM

Thanks Aaron and Heath for your latest replies.

Aaron: I've never seen a frame rust like this either, which is why I initially believed, and still do, that this was a defect from the factory -- possibly a deep scratch in the paint that went unnoticed and proceeded to develop corrosion the first time the truck saw water and salt... I may take it to a body shop and see what they recommend. They might say for 60 bucks they'll weld in a patch and make it all better. That'd be just fine with me.

Heath: I've tried the spray rust-to-primer stuff, but not the brand you mentioned. I'll give it a shot. Granted, it won't bring back what's gone, but it'll slow the process that's already started. The stuff I used didn't work that well, but it wasn't $6/can either. I'll try that stuff and let you know. Thanks for the suggestion on the paint brand.

himilefrontier · Jul 29th, 2003, 03:11 PM

I like the Corroless brand from the Eastwood company as far as rust convertors go.I've had good luck with it.Better than that is a product called POR 15.it's expensive, but well worth it.It is used as a chassis paint and is almost impossible to remove once it si on there.I'd have the frame sandblasted and the hole cut out to clean metal and a patch welded in then paint it and the corresponding area on the other side with the POR 15.It is top coatable and needs to be apinted over if in an area where it is exposed to sunlight since it is not UV resistant.After you do all this, I would coat the frame area you just fixed with wheel bearing grease-paint it on there.The grease and some dirt will combine to make a rustproof coating that will not be removed with road debris.I did this to the rust prone rear section of the frame rails on my 85 Cutlass when I pulled the body since I found rust there and have had no problems with it.

currykid3 · Jul 29th, 2003, 05:16 PM

POR 15 is the shiznit, tough stuff.

"Posted by himilefrontier... I would coat the frame area you just fixed with wheel bearing grease-paint it on there.The grease and some dirt will combine to make a rustproof coating that will not be removed with road debris."

The old timers up when I worked in the oil fields in Northeastern Utah would coat the undersides of their trucks with used motor oil(sprayed out of a paint sprayer) and then drive out onthe dirt roads. The bottom would be cover and look kind fuzzy. I once bought a 62 ford that the guy had done this to...It took a while but after i got it cleaned up the paint on the frame was FRESH after 30 years...I was amazed. The motor was a piece of crap but the frame was amazing. Sold the rolling chassis for 3times what I paid.

jadcock · Jul 29th, 2003, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by himilefrontier
I did this to the rust prone rear section of the frame rails on my 85 Cutlass when I pulled the body since I found rust there and have had no problems with it.

Thanks...I agree -- POR15 is great stuff! I think it's only available as mail order, is that right? I know all about the rear frame rail problems on the G-body cars...I had an '84 myself. It was in pretty good shape, but many weren't. It's tough to find one without any rust.

And thanks for the tips on the process to fix it. After we get the front strut mounts replaced on the Caddy, I'm going to take the Nissan in and have the frame done.

himilefrontier · Jul 29th, 2003, 09:46 PM

POR 15 is mail order only.The only place to get it is at their website as Eastwood stopped carrying it.I'm lucky with my G body since the rust wasn't serious,but it was rotting out at the mount in the corner of the rail in the back of the wheelwell.I also painted and greased the frame where the bushings go and put in polyurethane body mounts.

jadcock · Jul 30th, 2003, 06:38 AM

Cool! Got a pic? Here's what I used to have:

http://jadcock.oldsgmail.com/cutlass/