"Cranking" on the torsion bars changes the equillibrium point of the front suspension. Gravity is forcing the front of the truck down by trying to twist the torsion bars in one direction. But the torsion bars are springs, and they're reacting by twisting in the opposite direction. Somewhere in the middle, they find a compromise and that's where your truck rides.
What the torsion bars twist against is their rear mount. You'll notice that the rear mount is threaded -- so you can adjust this "fulcrum point" up or down. This doesn't change the force of the torsion bars, but it changes that "fulcrum point" against which they twist.
The long and short of it is yes, you can crank up or down on the torsion bars to alter the ride height. But the caveat is your truck's suspension is setup to be aligned with the torsion bars at "normal" height. There's of course a tolerance with every truck, and that's why there are alignment ranges built-in, so you can adjust back to normal. But if you alter the ride height too much, without changing anything else, you can go right past the end of the alignment range and you can't realign the truck to stock specs.
The way to get around it is to compliment the torsion bar adjustments with some dedicated lowering components, which change the suspension geometry, allowing it to align and function as intended -- just lower. I believe these parts include upper and lower control arms, possibly different steering knuckles, etc. So you CAN lower it only by messing with the torsion bars, but 3" is a serious modification, and I think you should seek out a kit that will include other components to help you achieve your goals.
ok thanks for the info. how much do you think i could lower it without fucking something up? the front is lower than the back already, so i could do like 3 back, 2 front, or maybe 2bacl, 1 front.
if i cant lower it at least an inch or so without buying a bunch of parts, i guess i will do that.
where are some good places to buy these parts and how much would it probably cost?
Originally posted by bump ok thanks for the info. how much do you think i could lower it without fucking something up? the front is lower than the back already, so i could do like 3 back, 2 front, or maybe 2bacl, 1 front.
When you talk about lifting a truck by cranking the torsions, they say don't go much over 1 inch on the stock stuff. I reckon you should use the same guideline for lowering it. You could probably lower it 1 inch, but I don't know, no guarantees.
Go buy a sport truck magazine at the super market and look for vendors in there. You should find something.
I did it to mine years ago. I lowered my 95 2 1/2 inches in the front which was all it would go. I used 3 inch lowering blocks in the back and it levelled out very nicely. You can do this with stock parts but be sure to either remove the overload bushings (big rubber bump stops) or buy some at a junkyard and put 'em to the band saw. This will return some suspension range. Stock shocks will work til you get new ones. To get a front shock that will be setting properly at 2 1/2-3" drop, get 4WD shocks from a 89 or so Nissan and they are identical to the 2wd shocks, but 3 inches shorter. I can't remember what I used on the rear, but I did not pay more than 15 dollars a piece for 'em. Get in a shock manual and look up which shock has the same top and bottom and is 3" shorter than yours at half stroke. You will drag your converter heat shield and your rear spring foward mounts, but thats par for the course. Go with aftermarket wheels cause if you use stockers, the drop disappears. Not sure why, but it does. I raised mine back up due to driveshaft issues. My truck came stock with a driveshaft that was too long. I had a new one custom made for the drop and they screwed it up. Gave up.
__________________
Aaron Ford
95 2WD Nissan PU E
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue GX
"The hard part about playing chicken is knowing when to flinch" Scott Glenn in The Hunt for Red October
Originally posted by aaronford I did it to mine years ago. I lowered my 95 2 1/2 inches in the front which was all it would go. I used 3 inch lowering blocks in the back and it levelled out very nicely. You can do this with stock parts but be sure to either remove the overload bushings (big rubber bump stops) or buy some at a junkyard and put 'em to the band saw. This will return some suspension range. Stock shocks will work til you get new ones. To get a front shock that will be setting properly at 2 1/2-3" drop, get 4WD shocks from a 89 or so Nissan and they are identical to the 2wd shocks, but 3 inches shorter. I can't remember what I used on the rear, but I did not pay more than 15 dollars a piece for 'em. Get in a shock manual and look up which shock has the same top and bottom and is 3" shorter than yours at half stroke. You will drag your converter heat shield and your rear spring foward mounts, but thats par for the course. Go with aftermarket wheels cause if you use stockers, the drop disappears. Not sure why, but it does. I raised mine back up due to driveshaft issues. My truck came stock with a driveshaft that was too long. I had a new one custom made for the drop and they screwed it up. Gave up.
thanks for the info.
ive heard of doing the rear at an angle to help the life of u-joints
Yes -- you can get wedges that go between the axle and the leaf spring that will keep it at the correct angle for the modified ride height. This is usually applicable to lifting a truck, but I suppose you could do the same thing when you lower.
This brings me back to one of my original suggestions -- get a kit that will include everything you need to do it right. Just like a good lift kit -- you'll probably pay more in the beginning, but doing it right the first time and not screwing anything up might pay for itself in the long-run. It's your call.
Here's an example. I found this in about 4 seconds using Google.com:
A GOOD drop block kit for the rear should come with Blocks that have a slight angle on one side. This is to compensate for the Pinion Angle. Ive helped drop these trucks by ALL ways possible. Dont go more than 2 upfront and 3 in back or youll have clearance/ suspension travel issues. OF COURSE if you want "ricer" you can get rid of ALL bumpstops, front shocks. Crank the torsions all the way out, and FLIP the rear leaf springs. Gives you about a 1/2-3/4 crossmember clearance. ****Hey I can push gravel down the highway..... COOL****
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****Nothing worth saying or showing****
Originally posted by jadcock Yes -- you can get wedges that go between the axle and the leaf spring that will keep it at the correct angle for the modified ride height. This is usually applicable to lifting a truck, but I suppose you could do the same thing when you lower.
This brings me back to one of my original suggestions -- get a kit that will include everything you need to do it right. Just like a good lift kit -- you'll probably pay more in the beginning, but doing it right the first time and not screwing anything up might pay for itself in the long-run. It's your call.
Here's an example. I found this in about 4 seconds using Google.com:
I don't know -- look around or call around to find a kit for an '86. I don't know what's the same and what's different. The basic chassis is the same, but I'm sure there are subtle differences or they would include all the years under one application.
my dad, who thinks im being a total dumbass by doing anything to my truck but change the oil, is actually gonna get off his lazy ass and help. this should be intresting.
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