To all you guys out there who love using JB Weld (hey, I love it too!), I've got a question. Will it hold a nut to a surface as good as a conventional tack weld will? Some background:
I removed the front skid plate to gain access to the radiator drain to drain the coolant and so I could completely remove my stabilizer bar. In the process, two of the front three machine screws (that mount the skid plate) snapped right off at the head. I'd like to drill all of them out so I can put in some larger hardware. I'd like to JB Weld a nut on the top of the mounting surface so I can run a bolt up through it and have the JB Weld hold it tight. This would be very similar to how Nissan tack welded the nut for the through-bolt that mounts the bottom end of the front shock to the lower control arm. Also similar to how the nut on the stabilizar bar bushings is tacked to the bracket, so you only have to remove the bolt and not mess around with wrenches on the nut. In your experience, will JB Weld accomplish the same strength as a conventional weld like this?
definately not the same strength as a tack weld if you do the weld right but the jb weld should hold pretty good as long as you don't try torquing it really hard.
its worth a shot. the worst whing that could happen is it doesnt work and you have to get another wrench out. the only thing i have used jb weld on is to repair a cracked exhaust. works very well for that
I used epoxy (isn't JB Weld just epoxy?) to hold some #10 nuts in place, but it didn't hold unless I used outside-star locknuts. With split-ring locknuts and inside-star locknuts, the nut just turned when tightened. I read of somebody sharpening the points of the locknut so they would dig into the metal better when tightened.
I've used JB Weld to repair a leaking plug on a Holley carb I had on my old Chevy and it held, it may actually work on holding those nuts on. I've even used it to ghetto repair a radiator vein that broke with a clip made of metal to seal the leak, it just may work, that stuff's great...
I used it once to repair an intake manifold on a Chevy 305 one time. The heater control valve is threaded into the rear of the intake...and it stripped badly when we tried to take it out. We couldn't find a drill and tap that big (3/4" threads or something) so we loaded it up with JB Weld and inserted the valve into the stripped hole and it held great!
I work with JB weld all the time. Its basically just and epoxy (but a strong one) and will crack when pressure is applied. Have you considered drilling out the broken bolt then tapping the hole. If the metal is thick enough, you can eliminate the bolt all together.
Rattler, I don't THINK I can tap the hole, but it's worth thinking about. I believe the metal is too thin. I'll hafta check and see. You're right -- eliminating the bolt all together would be preferred!
Not sure how big your screws/bolts are or how close to the end of the panel they're mounted, maybe those sheet metal clips with the threads? they use them a lot in fenders and doors for smaller screws
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