I am looking at trying to install rear disk brakes on my Nissan Hardbody (I have a 91 EXCAB with the V6 and a 5spd). I was told that I might be able to place a pathfinder rear axle (that came with disc brakes) in its place. Then I was told the pathfinder used coil over springs and not leaf springs. I am pretty determind to make this conversion, it will do a couple of things. One, I plan to put around 300Hp to the rear wheels and I understand that I can get a locking rear diff from the pathfinder that can hanlle more of a load and put power to the pavement (plus I may need to stop from this). Two, I have placed custom rims/tires on the truck and I need about 1/4" to clear the rear tires from hitting the fenders (the disc brakes Vs. having a huge drum should do the trick, unless the pathfinder axle is wider). If the pathfinder used coil over springs this may not matter because I plan to put a 4 link conversion in the rear end. The other option may be to hollow out my rear axle and try to stuff the pathfinder guts in its place (I doubt this one but you never know). If anyone knows this information or has done something similar and learned from it, this would greatly help.
Sounds like a fun project. Yes, the WD21 Pathy rear is a 4 link coil suspension (5 if you count the panhard rod) . You could swap the whole axle from an SE (has the discs) and either use Pathy upper and lower link mounts or fab up your own. Just a note, manual tranny Pathys had 4.3XX gears while auto tranny Paths have 4.6XX
The SE's came with LSD, but unfortunately you will pay big bucks for a rear locker. If you need different gearing, expect even more.
Check out 4x4parts.com for more info on the rear disc swap has been discussed ove there.
Last edited by mookie : May 7th, 2003 at 02:33 PM.
I apologize, I'm no help to the rear disc swap. I'm just curious to know your recipe for a 300 RWHP Nissan Hardbody (if you don’t mind telling . Do you plan on using the original VG30E motor?
I have a 1987 VG30ET from a 300ZX. Its going to be a project for sure. The issues with this that I have found so far: the turbo is mounted where the driver side engine mount is plus the downpipe for the turbo is going to rub the steering shaft(or its going to be a very tight fit). Also the truck comes with the exhaust crossover pipes underneath the transmission, the 300Z has the crossover pipes over the transmission which places this in my fire wall on my truck. I figure getting a custom exhaust manafold made could fix all this (of course this could also fix my pocket too). Then you get into the electrical issues, to fix this I plan to use an aftermarket computer such as AEM or Haltech, I would probably do this anyway to get more power out of the motor along with a turbo upgrade (another ouch but oh well). The last issue that I know about is that I have to switch the fuel pump to a 300Z TT so I don't run too lean. I could have used a different engine swap but I already had this one. This project is going to take awhile but it should be fun when I am done with it. Thanks for the rear axle info.
Sounds like a great project! Post Pics along the way, if you can. How about a centrifugal blower? Would this alleviate any space issues? Keep us posted, Aaron
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Aaron Ford
95 2WD Nissan PU E
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue GX
"The hard part about playing chicken is knowing when to flinch" Scott Glenn in The Hunt for Red October
Originally posted by scoobysmak I have a 1987 VG30ET from a 300ZX. Its going to be a project for sure. The issues with this that I have found so far: the turbo is mounted where the driver side engine mount is plus the downpipe for the turbo is going to rub the steering shaft(or its going to be a very tight fit). Also the truck comes with the exhaust crossover pipes underneath the transmission, the 300Z has the crossover pipes over the transmission which places this in my fire wall on my truck. I figure getting a custom exhaust manafold made could fix all this (of course this could also fix my pocket too). Then you get into the electrical issues, to fix this I plan to use an aftermarket computer such as AEM or Haltech, I would probably do this anyway to get more power out of the motor along with a turbo upgrade (another ouch but oh well). The last issue that I know about is that I have to switch the fuel pump to a 300Z TT so I don't run too lean. I could have used a different engine swap but I already had this one. This project is going to take awhile but it should be fun when I am done with it. Thanks for the rear axle info.
Great project! It has been done before on a few Pathfinders. The turbo and non turbo engine. Looks like you've identified the 'tricky parts'!
1. For the exhaust crossover pipe other folks have either installed a 3" body lift (these were on 4x4's and you probably don't want to do this - keep it low for all that HP!) and some good persuasion with the BFH. It's easier to have a custom pipe fabbed.
2. As you already know, in the Turbo's stock position, the steering column is in the way of the turbo and the turbo hits the frame. Re-position the turbo and custom build the drivers side exhaust manifold to get around this.
3. You're going custom ECU, but if you haven't done so, grab as much as you can from the donor car. ECU, injectors, vacumn stuff, all sensors, wiring harness..etc..etc. As you know, it takes a few of these things for the Turbo engine to run compared to a N.A engine. Or... get a modified intake manifold and carb the engine lol!
The above info was taken from other posts regarding this swap that I had on my hard drive.
Have Fun!!
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'90 Pathy, SAS, Dana44's F/R, 5.38's, Waggy 7 pack fr, Chevy 63"s rr, , 35's, custom F/R bumpers, Warn M8000, and a few other goodies to drive really slow.
Cool - Let us know how that turns out. I've always been interested to know if a VG30DETT could fit inside my 89 hardbody. I'll probably never have the spare $$ to entertain that idea tho
Originally posted by scoobysmak I was told the VG30DETT had a wider angle on the block and would start to interfer with more equipment than I could begin to name.
Yeah, the twin turbo requires massive, massive front end work for it to fit. Going with the single is much easier in the scheme of things.
you gotta fab this, you gotta cut that. it won't fit. blah blah blah. This comes from people who dont know because thay havent done it. I Have. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358115
first things first your gonna need to use the tranny from a six banger truck. Here's why.
1. The 300z tranny is 9 inches longer and it wont match the whole in the floor board.
2. The input shaft on the four banger transmission is too small. You need The one from the
Six Banger.
3. The transmission from the six cylinder truck will mate perfectly to the 300zx engine. Use
a 300zx clutch, or use an upgraded one like a centerforce. Either way you want a clutch to
match the car.
1. Use the starter from the truck. It will bolt up to the tranny. You are gonna need to
grind a little off of your passanger side motor mount. You will see that the starter is
gonna hit it because the truck starter is longer than the 300z starter.
firewall
1. you need to beat it back approx. 5 or 6 inches where your crossover pipes hit it. I cut
mine with a sawzaw and beat it in till i got clearance. Then i just fiberglassed and body
filled it.
2. your intake manifold may hit the lip where you firewall meets the cowl. i just grinded
this off.
Alternator
1. Use the alternator from the 300z. but your gonna have to relocate it because it will hit
the passanger side motor mount. I relocated mine where the A/C compressor goes. I can send
you pics if you need me too.
Motormount.
1. the passanger side one is fine, other than grinding a little off the corner for the
starter, leave it alone.
2. cut the driver side one off. it is in the way of your turbocharger. i took the mounts
from the 300zx and mounted one to the driverside front of the block, and turned the other
one upside down, welded it to the frame. from there your bolt holes will mount up. i just
put a grade 8 bolt and nut through the 2 bolt holes and tightend them up.
intake piping
this is tricky
1. the metal intake pipe will hit your steering shaft. what i did was i cut it off and used
a 2 inch 45 degree rubber fernco (found at your local hardware store in the plumbing section
10 bucks) and mounted it on the turbo and the intake pipe. it will still rub, but barely,
and you wont feel it when you turn. through trial and error i had a problem blowing this
hose after about 20 or so runs at the drag strip. I found the fix though. I used the spring
that came out of 1 of the upper radiator hoses cut it to fit and slid it inside the rubber
fernco. problem fixed.
2. eventually i intercooled my setup. in doing this i fixed the rubbing of the steering
shaft altogether because i changed the angle and direction of the fernco on the turbo.
transmission crossmember
1.I used the one from the truck there is plenty of mounting holes under there to choose
from. just pick one that will work.
radiator
1. use the 300z radiator. it is a double core radiator. I started out using the one from the
truck, but realized that it was a single core.once i switched to the double core my truck
ran cooler.
2. this radiator will not bolt right in. i kinda rigged mine up and then had to get the
piping to work right. This was also a trial and error subject. I have pictures if you need
i have been wondering about the rear brake conversion myself, but i was thinking i could just unbolt the mounting plate off the Axel shaft of a pathfinder and use it on my 92, I'm thinking it will be the same mounting bolt pattern for the backing plate to hold the parking brake shoes and the back plate will already had the caliper mount on it so i just need to use the drums, and the 60/40 valve from the pathfinder? anyone else out there tried this or know of the differences between the axles besides one is leaf and one is 4 link?
by the way nice truck purple i also have a 83 I've been working on trying to fit vg30dett, but i was having to do a lot of mods, till some friends said tube chassis and build from ground up, so we started with that the main thing i like is no more torsion bars, the biggest problem I'm having is still the steering but i think mike at CBS racing has the cure for it or so he says i haven't seen his cure yet lol
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keep honking im reloading!,If it aint broke turn up the BoosT!
On the disc brake conversion...the e-brake cables won't match ANYTHING under the HB. Good luck on that one. If your truck has the H233B rear diff already, you can pull the axles, swap in the axles complete with backing plates and brakes, then swap the master cylinder. The MC for drums is differently valved than the disc MC. Oh, did I forget to mention that drum rear diffs have a thrust block inside the diff that needs to be removed before you can install the disc axles? Hmmmm, fun times.
__________________
Admin of NPORA, mod for Nissan-Infiniti Forums, NissanForums.com, NissanHelp.com, AllNissans.com and VGPowered Forums
'88 Pathfinder: 6" of lift, 33x13.50 Swamper LTB's, Rancho 9000's, L&P Stage 3 steering system, K&N, Pacesetter headers and 2.5" exhaust, Lock-Right locker, 110A alty and electric fan swap, dual batteries, 700W+ worth of PIAAs, etc.
Purpleflash: Sheeeeitttt, is that all? I'll just get up and go do that right now and see how easy it all is. :P
Quote:
Originally Posted by purpleflash
you gotta fab this, you gotta cut that. it won't fit. blah blah blah. This comes from people who dont know because thay havent done it. I Have. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358115
first things first your gonna need to use the tranny from a six banger truck. Here's why.
1. The 300z tranny is 9 inches longer and it wont match the whole in the floor board.
2. The input shaft on the four banger transmission is too small. You need The one from the
Six Banger.
3. The transmission from the six cylinder truck will mate perfectly to the 300zx engine. Use
a 300zx clutch, or use an upgraded one like a centerforce. Either way you want a clutch to
match the car.
1. Use the starter from the truck. It will bolt up to the tranny. You are gonna need to
grind a little off of your passanger side motor mount. You will see that the starter is
gonna hit it because the truck starter is longer than the 300z starter.
firewall
1. you need to beat it back approx. 5 or 6 inches where your crossover pipes hit it. I cut
mine with a sawzaw and beat it in till i got clearance. Then i just fiberglassed and body
filled it.
2. your intake manifold may hit the lip where you firewall meets the cowl. i just grinded
this off.
Alternator
1. Use the alternator from the 300z. but your gonna have to relocate it because it will hit
the passanger side motor mount. I relocated mine where the A/C compressor goes. I can send
you pics if you need me too.
Motormount.
1. the passanger side one is fine, other than grinding a little off the corner for the
starter, leave it alone.
2. cut the driver side one off. it is in the way of your turbocharger. i took the mounts
from the 300zx and mounted one to the driverside front of the block, and turned the other
one upside down, welded it to the frame. from there your bolt holes will mount up. i just
put a grade 8 bolt and nut through the 2 bolt holes and tightend them up.
intake piping
this is tricky
1. the metal intake pipe will hit your steering shaft. what i did was i cut it off and used
a 2 inch 45 degree rubber fernco (found at your local hardware store in the plumbing section
10 bucks) and mounted it on the turbo and the intake pipe. it will still rub, but barely,
and you wont feel it when you turn. through trial and error i had a problem blowing this
hose after about 20 or so runs at the drag strip. I found the fix though. I used the spring
that came out of 1 of the upper radiator hoses cut it to fit and slid it inside the rubber
fernco. problem fixed.
2. eventually i intercooled my setup. in doing this i fixed the rubbing of the steering
shaft altogether because i changed the angle and direction of the fernco on the turbo.
transmission crossmember
1.I used the one from the truck there is plenty of mounting holes under there to choose
from. just pick one that will work.
radiator
1. use the 300z radiator. it is a double core radiator. I started out using the one from the
truck, but realized that it was a single core.once i switched to the double core my truck
ran cooler.
2. this radiator will not bolt right in. i kinda rigged mine up and then had to get the
piping to work right. This was also a trial and error subject. I have pictures if you need
__________________
Admin of NPORA, mod for Nissan-Infiniti Forums, NissanForums.com, NissanHelp.com, AllNissans.com and VGPowered Forums
'88 Pathfinder: 6" of lift, 33x13.50 Swamper LTB's, Rancho 9000's, L&P Stage 3 steering system, K&N, Pacesetter headers and 2.5" exhaust, Lock-Right locker, 110A alty and electric fan swap, dual batteries, 700W+ worth of PIAAs, etc.
. Do you plan on using the original VG30E motor?
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