Regards: 93 Nissan king 4 cylinder automatic, 213,000 miles. The transmission in drive shifted rough into upper gear. I do not have a lot of money to fix right now so am looking for any way to solve this situation. milmakers1@yahoo.com
Sounds like you burned up your trans. Nissan has a problem with their built in trans cooler clogging up which causes over heating and low fluid pressure. It cant hurt changing the fluid and filter but more than likely will not fix it. Also - Remove your trans cooler lines at the radiator and flush out the cooler with 2 cans of brake or carb cleaner. (The dealer sells a trans line cleaner But $$$)
You will have to replace the transmission if not now, soon. Be sure to install an aftermarket trans cooler. I got 1 at Pep Boys for $60 for my 93 Pathfinder (180,000mi) and completely bypassed the factory cooler. Make sure you get one large enough to handle a bypassed factory cooler. Install it in front of your radiator and evaporator for the best cooling efficiency.
Also your trans holds about 12 quarts of fluid but just draining it will only change about 3 quarts. You can either take it to a shop to get it hooked up to a trans flushing machine ($40 - $75) or change the filter and fluid, drive it for a few miles and drain and fill it again, then repeat 1 more time.
I want to know if installing an aftermarket oil and gas radiator unit will increase the performace of my 02 Frontier Crew Cab / LB / non S/C 3.3L V6? I have just recently installed a new Magnaflow muffler to the stock exauhst system along with a exauhst tip. I also have installed a K&N Drop in air filter along with a throtle body spacer.
If I install these devices how much improvement am I looking at for the cost of the radiator and hose units? Do you have any recomendations for doing such projects like this?
If anybody need help, has a question, or wants to report something in this section hit me up any time. patricks@ncia.net
AIM: PatScottAKA99XE and PatScottAKA99XE2
hello. I have a 1994 Nissan XE V6 pickup. It will not stay at a steady idle. It will run at about 500 rpm then die. It runs fine down the road though. It also has a bad smelling exhaust sort of black/blue. The way I see it , it seems to be burning way to rich. I would think that maybe it has to do with the O2 sensor but don't know where to locate or to unhook. Can you help me? nasfratau@yahoo.com
Last edited by nasfratau : Sep 22nd, 2004 at 04:07 PM.
If anybody need help, has a question, or wants to report something in this section hit me up any time. patricks@ncia.net
AIM: PatScottAKA99XE and PatScottAKA99XE2
Hello. I have a problem, maybe you can help me. I hope so. I have a 95 pickup (4-cyl.). A couple of days ago my check engine light started to come on and off, periodically, as I drove to and from work. I have 95,000 miles on the truck, and looking at my records I noticed that I had never changed the PCV valve. I did this, along with changing the fuel filter, air filter, and breather filter. After doing this, the check engine light now STAYSs on. What the heck did I do? The truck is running and idling fine. FYI, I did unplug the O2 sensor when I was looking for the PCV valve location, maybe this "tripped" the "light." Is there a way I can "re-set" the check engine light? Any advice sure would be helpful. Thanks.
Well I definately have an o2 sensor problem w/ added problems. The CE started constantly staying on. I took it to a mechanic, who checked the "codes" and he said it was the o2 sensor. Well, he "tried" to put a new O2 sensor in and "stripped" the threads inside the exhaust manifold. He tried to "tap-it," using Heli-coil, and it held, however, the check engine light will not go off (i.e., code still indicating O2 sensor). He said there must still be a leak around the sensor, continuing to "trip" the light. He said the only way to fix it is to get a new/used exhaust manifold. Anyone have any insight? Looking at the board and the "contacts" it looks like I can get a new exhaust manifold OR a exhaust header for about the same cost (approx. $160) for my '95 4-cyl. XE pickup. I assume there would be more work involved if I went the "header" route. I'm just frustrated over the whole ordeal.
I ran this (ECU) check on my 93 ka24e and it suggested that my crank position sensor is bad. This makes sense due to the fact that my engine will turn over but has no spark at the distributor, an therfore does not start. My question is, how accurate is this test? Is it worth me going and spending 45 bucks on a distributor from a salvage yard?
Last edited by 88pathoffroad : Feb 5th, 2005 at 08:35 PM.
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