The truck I have is standard transmission, 4 cyl, 2-wheel, 2.4 Ltr. When I turn the key, all lights come on, when I go to start, there is a delay, and after one to two seconds, it turns over. I can hear the relays click. If I simply turn the key without holding it, I hear clicks and it will not start. Do you think this is a relay problem or something else?
My truck will not start at all now. It doesn't matter if I just turn it over quickly, or turn and HOLD the key all the way to the starting position. What is the check relay for and what is the main relay for? They are spendy and might try to pick them up at a wrecking yard. What else could it be? Maybe clutch safety switch? Please any advise is so appreciated! I just bought this truck a week ago and put new tires on it and replaced all fluids, invested a bunch of money and now it won't start This truck was sitting for two years and there is corrosion in places. Replaced, cap, rotor, plugs, oil, rear oil, trany oil. I could almost cry over this becuase I need a car to look for work.
have u checked ur starter? mine did the same thing...i thought it was the battery but it ended up being the starter...i havent changed it yet because it still starts...just takes a few seconds before it turns over...
Thanks for replying Turbo. I went to a wrecking yard today and picked up the Check Relay and the Main Relay (located on the passenger side in the engine compartment like a fuse box). Did not fix the problem.
Tomorrow a friend will come over and attempt to take out the starter. From what I researched, this starter is a BEAR to get out and back in. It's in there in a tight, small place and some people have suggested to remove electrical stuff, exhaust system, and more!
Another friend suggested instaling a remote starter, whereby you place one wire onto the solonoid of the starter and it threads through the firewall and comes into the cab and you push a button to start it. However, one needs to be VERY careful when starting because you now have bypassed the clutch safety switch which means if you do not have it in neurtral (I have a 5 speed) then the truck will lunge forward. I refuse to take this truck to a dealer to replace the starter. Some people have testified that even after replacing the starter, there's some improvemnet for a while, and then the "clicking" problem comes back. I hate electrical problems. They are complicated and expensive. Best rule of thumb is to try to rule out the easiest and least expensive stuff first. It could be the ignition switch. Some people have said they replaced what they thought was a good battery and their trucks started. This truck has been sitting for two years and I have no idea if the guy even started it periodically. There's corrosion in places like even the dome light that had to be wiped clean.
If anyone knows how to remove a starter from my truck, without removing all the parts listed above, I am all ears.
I forgot to come back and report an update. I have a new starter in the truck now. Still clicks, so friend attached a wire to the solenoid and ran it through the firewall and into the cab and installed a remote starter (push button). It starts but now I have to be careful about not starting it in gear.
There is a relay in the fuse box under the dash board. I think it's for the ignition. I already replaced two relays from a wrecking yard and who knows if they were good or not but did not fix the problem. Guess there's no way to test a relay? I guess I will go find that ignition relay from a wrecking yard and see if that helps.
Well, my truck is extremely hard starting, even with this remote starter (bypassing the clutch safety switch and ignition). When I turn the key to on, and push the remote starter button, it cranks but it kicks back and takes about 30 seconds to start. Borrowed a friend's battery and no improvement. What are some other things to check. So far, we have eliminated:
- battery (no corrosion, good connections)
- ignition switch
- check and main relays
- replaced plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter
This truck is fuel-injected. I even wait until I hear the faint hum noise go away so that I know that there's enough fuel pumping in before turning the key. Possible bad fuel pump? Maybe alternator? There's only one belt (this truck is so standard, it has no power steering). The belt is just slightly loose.
Is there a way to test the voltage regulator?
This truck has been sitting for 2 years before I bought it. The owner said he started periodically. When I test drove it, it started fine.
Any ideas what to test next?
Also, with this bypass wire, am I bypassing the check and main relays? I'm not sure if the ones from the wrecking yard were good or not.
Also, the truck starts quickly after the engine is warmed up.
i just went bought a repair book from auto zone or wherever......
it was like 20$ and saved me a ton of sh$t .....just make sure to get the chilton book and not something else...they have the best info it seems like....
im goin to do my starter at some point but right now i just dont have the money...plus i plan on pullin the motor at some point lol
my guess is starter and idk how hard it is but im sure wit a help of a friend it wont take too long to do.....
good luck with it! and let me know if u need help...i can scan the pgs in my manual if u do end up needing it
I can't find the Chilton manual in my town, I only have the Hayne's manual and geez, it's not very helpful. And it covers all kinds of models. If you are willing to scan some pages for my make/model, than I would appreciate it. I don't know how to do a private message to you, but if you do, I could give you my email address.
I need the diagrams and instructions for the ignition switch. Also the fuel system (thinking I might have a problem getting enough fuel from the electronic fuel pump).
I took my truck into AutoZone today. They are really nice about testing some things for free, so my battery is fine and so is my alternator. Was told that my charging system is fine. My engine turns over fine after the engine warms up, so there might be a temperature coolant sensor? problem. That would be helpful also.
Nailing down a starting problem is so tedious and can be expensive.
I'm about to throw up because of my truck problems. Maybe you can scan some pages out of your Chilton's manual for me? I googled my problem and there is one guy that seemed to have resolved his problem and I want to do the same thing. I need the wiring diagram for what he is talking about. He is what he posted:
"Problem solved. Me and a couple of friends discovered the problem after several hours pouring over the ignition wiring schematic. I knew I had power to the interlock relay because it was tripping every time the ignition was in the starting position. Today, I simply ran a wire from the starter to the battery and the truck started right up. I knew my Nissan wouldn't let me down. So then I ran a wire from the B/P wire at the interlock relay to the B/Y wire from the starter solenoid. l Problem solved, not a single hesitation when cranking. So it was bad wiring between the interlock relay and the starter. "
So........I already have a wire going from the solenoid to a push button automatic starter in the cab. Can I use that wire? Or just start over. It's hard to get to my solenoid but maybe I can find someone to do this for me. Is B/P mean blue/purpose or black/purple? and B/Y mean blue/yellow or Black/Yellow?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.