I recently picked up a 89' Hardbody Z24i with an automatic transmission. It runs great and hope to keep it running for a few more years to come. Lately, I've noticed that the transmission 'slips' when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. I've also noticed that when coming to a stop it shifts down roughly, most likely when going from gears 2nd to 1st at low speeds (ie. parking lots). It isn't too bad right now, but you can definatly notice the slight roughness. I pulled the A/T dipstick and the fluid looked clean (bright red) and there was no burning smell. I haven't had the time to do a proper check of the A/T fluid level (it's -3 celcius right now), but I will tomorrow when it warms up. Should the A/T fluid be ok where should I go next? Could it be that it just needs a trans. flush? What other components would cause these types of problems and what would the cost be? One last question, for 89' is the tranny a 3sp or 4sp? My Haynes manual states that model years 80-85 are 3sp while "later models" use a variety of 4sp A/T's. It also says that 90' models were updated with "many new features", including a built in overdrive as well as a lock-up torque converter. I'm somewhat skeptical of this information that Haynes provides. Thanks for your input.
Last edited by Marcus : Dec 3rd, 2005 at 07:26 PM.
Well I checked the fluid level (with engine running on level surface) and it read in the 'add' area according to the manual. I bought a quart of ATF fluid Dextron/Mercon III and tomorrow I'm going to top it up. I'm just wondering when I should add the fluid, when the engine/tranny are cold or after they have warmed up? How much should I add to start off?
Well I checked the fluid level again after I had driven it for about 35 minutes (highway/city driving). When I got home I checked the fluid right away, using the 'hot side' I could see that there was ATF fluid all over the dipstick, just past the end of hot. Just one question, do I have to move the gear shifter through each range before I'm able to check the fluid? I checked the fluid a few times and I only moved the shifter once. Maybe I got a incorrect reading?
When I drove it around the block I couldn't feel it slip. I will keep an eye on it, hopefully my tranny is fine...
Well I checked the fluid level again after I had driven it for about 35 minutes (highway/city driving). When I got home I checked the fluid right away, using the 'hot side' I could see that there was ATF fluid all over the dipstick, just past the end of hot. Just one question, do I have to move the gear shifter through each range before I'm able to check the fluid? I checked the fluid a few times and I only moved the shifter once. Maybe I got a incorrect reading?
When I drove it around the block I couldn't feel it slip. I will keep an eye on it, hopefully my tranny is fine...
If you drove it around then thats the same thing. I was just telling you that once you put in the fluid you should go manually shift thru the gears to spread it out through the valvebody and the rest of the tranny and then go check the level. Either way works if you were just a bit low, but if you ever serviced it (fluid and filter) then I would do it the way I explained to make sure you have enough before driving it.
I'm having another problem with my truck. When I start it up in the morning (or after about 8hrs) it will start up fine but will stall out after about 3 seconds. If I start it up again it does the same thing. I've tried cycling the igntion key to try to get more fuel pumped but that doesn't seem to work either. The only thing that will keep it from stalling out is to give it a little bit of gas after it has started. However, when I let off the gas it doesn't run that smooth, it also vibrates a little more than normal. Once the truck has warmed up the idle is smooth with no vibrations. I don't know if this has to do anything with the stalling problem, but compared to the KA24E in my 95' the Z24i doesn't seem as smooth or refined. What do you guys think?
I'm having another problem with my truck. When I start it up in the morning (or after about 8hrs) it will start up fine but will stall out after about 3 seconds. If I start it up again it does the same thing. I've tried cycling the igntion key to try to get more fuel pumped but that doesn't seem to work either. The only thing that will keep it from stalling out is to give it a little bit of gas after it has started. However, when I let off the gas it doesn't run that smooth, it also vibrates a little more than normal. Once the truck has warmed up the idle is smooth with no vibrations. I don't know if this has to do anything with the stalling problem, but compared to the KA24E in my 95' the Z24i doesn't seem as smooth or refined. What do you guys think?
As far as cold starts the KA24 is much better but all around I dont see much to complaine about as far as dependability. The Z24's are a little ruogh in cold weather on start-ups if everything is not in top shape. The list of things to check is like a mile long but always start with the basics.
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Spat
Former Nissan Tech
14yrs ASE all but AT it's a bitXX!
New career - HandyMan/Electrician - Freedom at last!!
86.5 Nissan HB D21 234K Miles
94 Nissan Altima GXE ? Miles
97 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L 132K Miles
64 Chrysler 300-K 2-door Convertible 63K Miles
What things should I look into? This truck doesn't have a check engine light, so how do I get the codes off? By the lower left of the dash there is a purple connector, is this related to the ECU?
I don't know, I've only owned it for a few months. Is it possible that my tranny problems are related to an engine problem? I'm going to check my ECU codes.
What things should I look into? This truck doesn't have a check engine light, so how do I get the codes off? By the lower left of the dash there is a purple connector, is this related to the ECU?
the basics being tune up items; plugs, wires, timing, and filters. make sure all are in good condition and not fouled, dirty, cracked. if you have a repair manual there is a section for maintenance it will go over all of the above items plus some. always start with the basics on driveability problems, alot of times these items are overlooked by many drivers. from there you can pull DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) from the computer. many older vehicles this is done by a jumper, repair manuals will cover this and how to read them.
engine dieing sounds like the throttle body butterfly and throat needs cleaning.....when i get a 'new' used car, i pull the distributer cap and scrape off the white oxides on the four contacts inside the cap (i'm cheap) and clean up the exterior of the cap. Note: when checking the trans fluid, you often need to insert the dip stick four or five times, wiping it off each time because the fluid seems to ride up the tube during operation and gives a 'too high' level or hard to understand reading the first few times.
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