87 nissan pickup no spark! - Page 3 - Nissan Forum
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post #31 of 45 Old Oct 18th, 2005, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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well spat its good to have a fellow electrician on here lol.. ive been in the commercial (some residential but mostly commercial) field for 5 yrs now... completed my schoolin for license and now am startin for my electrical engeenirign degree wich is basically the same thing as my journeyman classes...

but wow your description of your coils failing is the exact same as mine.. it would start ruff in cold then b ok but like you said once a heavy load was put on engine it would sputter till you let off the gas... imma go double check my coils again to b sure cause if thats the case maybe its my ignition modules that went out... maybe one then the other or maybe its the coils... guess i could go get a coil froma junkyard and swip swap all combinations of coil, exh and intake side with the two modules if still niether works then maybe its the modules (per process of elemination lol) damn i love trouble shooting...

but still each module is 70 bucks a pop id hate to drop more money into this and it not fix it... also i to do not know how to test those modules.. ive been searchin on the internet but still cant find anyting about those two wires taht go in.. on mine two are black with stripes and the third is grounded ifi remember right.. but two wires come out goin to the coil

ill have to check it out


and matt my truck is a 1987 nissan hardbody pickup with the z24i motor so any ignition schematics you could pull up man would help alot..... lets work together and get our trucks fixed lol


oh yea i feel kinda dumb now too b/c i was braggin at work about how rock solid my nissan was and i have to say it has gotten me far ... really far

with only a change in battery, alternator, water pump and distributor and no engine work at all not even transmission the truck has on it right now 325,000 miles yup thats right and the ac still blows cold as hell

being an electrician i usually have to drive half way across dallas fortworth to get to my job so this thing has been good to me.. id like to fix it and take it to 500k maybe nissan will give me a new truck haha
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post #32 of 45 Old Oct 19th, 2005, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davinci
well spat its good to have a fellow electrician on here lol.. ive been in the commercial (some residential but mostly commercial) field for 5 yrs now... completed my schoolin for license and now am startin for my electrical engeenirign degree wich is basically the same thing as my journeyman classes...

but wow your description of your coils failing is the exact same as mine.. it would start ruff in cold then b ok but like you said once a heavy load was put on engine it would sputter till you let off the gas... imma go double check my coils again to b sure cause if thats the case maybe its my ignition modules that went out... maybe one then the other or maybe its the coils... guess i could go get a coil froma junkyard and swip swap all combinations of coil, exh and intake side with the two modules if still niether works then maybe its the modules (per process of elemination lol) damn i love trouble shooting...

but still each module is 70 bucks a pop id hate to drop more money into this and it not fix it... also i to do not know how to test those modules.. ive been searchin on the internet but still cant find anyting about those two wires taht go in.. on mine two are black with stripes and the third is grounded ifi remember right.. but two wires come out goin to the coil

ill have to check it out


and matt my truck is a 1987 nissan hardbody pickup with the z24i motor so any ignition schematics you could pull up man would help alot..... lets work together and get our trucks fixed lol


oh yea i feel kinda dumb now too b/c i was braggin at work about how rock solid my nissan was and i have to say it has gotten me far ... really far

with only a change in battery, alternator, water pump and distributor and no engine work at all not even transmission the truck has on it right now 325,000 miles yup thats right and the ac still blows cold as hell

being an electrician i usually have to drive half way across dallas fortworth to get to my job so this thing has been good to me.. id like to fix it and take it to 500k maybe nissan will give me a new truck haha
If my memory stands me correct, you can just swap the coils, and try that, the one fires all the time, and 2nd one only kicks in at high rpms, to burn the excess fuel.
when my one coil went bad to would run fine at low speeds, and then breakup at mid range in the throttle.
post #33 of 45 Old Oct 19th, 2005, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boozer
If my memory stands me correct, you can just swap the coils, and try that, the one fires all the time, and 2nd one only kicks in at high rpms, to burn the excess fuel.
when my one coil went bad to would run fine at low speeds, and then breakup at mid range in the throttle.
yea i tried that and still no spark... even disconnecting the coil from the distributer and tryin to get the coil wite (not spark plug wire) to spark.. it still wont
post #34 of 45 Old Oct 19th, 2005, 06:18 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by davinci
yea i tried that and still no spark... even disconnecting the coil from the distributer and tryin to get the coil wite (not spark plug wire) to spark.. it still wont
hey guys just wanted to let you know I got my truck going today!!!
after putting the new coils in it would finally fire up but still ran like poop I went to the dealer this morning and got the schematic checked the transisters and the one for the intake side was bad. NAPA had the transister for $102 in stock, dealer price $158 and 3 days wait. I will send the schematic to anyone that sends me a private message with e-mail info, it is in a PDF file I just made. The signal to the coil is digital so be careful a standard meter will show 12v whith ignition on, while cranking the voltage will drop a little but you need to use a noid light or an oscilloscope to look for the pulse signal. mine was never cuting off all the way and the way. I think the actual transister inside had locked in the on position, so I never got that field colapsing I spoke of earlier. I will be writing a trouble shooting guid later to put on a web page that I am creating to help others with this problem. Good Luck!!!!

It's much easier to travel through a maze when you have a map!

Spat
Former Nissan Tech
14yrs ASE all but AT it's a bitXX!
New career - HandyMan/Electrician - Freedom at last!!

86.5 Nissan HB D21 234K Miles
94 Nissan Altima GXE ? Miles
97 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L 132K Miles
64 Chrysler 300-K 2-door Convertible 63K Miles
post #35 of 45 Old Oct 20th, 2005, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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damn gues i gotta drop some more bills for new transistors then if that doesent work coils cause i dont have a oscilliscope lol
post #36 of 45 Old Oct 21st, 2005, 11:31 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 6
'81 200 SX Starting/Stalling Problem

I've got the very same problem you do and I am trying to resolve it as we speak. I have 2 coils, 10 spark plugs and a 3-pin E12-81 IC Igniter Module inside the distributor. The car is very hard to start and once I get it running I can make it stall out in my garage by increasing the RPM's pulling back on the throttle body. I checked the plugs and the evidence is there: plugs are wet showing lack of combustion. That means the E12-81 IC module is not doing its job. I put a voltmeter on #1 intake and exhaust plugs and got good voltage. The problem I believe is with the transistor inside the igniter module located inside the distributor. This '81 vintage ECU is not user friendly in terms of retrieving trouble codes. So I have to back into the problem. I like you do not want to invest in another distributor just to get the same problem again down the road. This distributor has already been replaced with one from a junk yard due to a bad igniter module and here it is happening again. When I pulled the spark plug to do a spark test I noticed that the spark was infrequent and weak. The strong flame throwing capability comes from a good transistor inside the module which steps up, amplifies and energizes the coils. The problem is not with the ECU as it only tells the coil when to fire by using a toggle to ground. This is a real predicatment because it will happen again. The problem lies in the design of the IC ignition modules. I am researching trying to find a compatible afermarket distributor as I don't believe the solution is another salvage yard distribtor with the same E12-81 IC module. Any input into this problem/solution is apppreciated.

maorr



Quote:
Originally Posted by davinci
ok ive about racked my brains on my ignition system... for a while it was boggin down when i gave it alot of gas on teh freeway... and in early mornings it was having a ruff idle untill it warmed up... also the check battery light would kinda light up but then go away..

well last week on teh frwy the engine just shut down...
i still have all electronical things work radio lights etc
the engine turns over but no spark
now heres the deal ive replaced the wires. spark plug, rotor, distributar cap

i have ohmed out both coils (2 since its a z24) both within spec,,, and the ignition modules ( right before the coils) are both gettin 12vs and the coils on the high tension end are gettin 12 volts and 9.6 when crankin.. yet im still gettin no spark.. any thoughs? ive about gone mad tryin to trouble shoot this.. what other relays and fuses should i check? i know theres an ignition relay under the dash but what else should i b lookin for? could that relay b the problem? oh also the distributor does turn... ive cranked it over while the cap was off

detailed answers please.... thanks
post #37 of 45 Old Oct 24th, 2005, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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well ive decided to buy a intake side ignition module and put it on there to see if it works since the truck should run without the exhaust side.. if this works ill then buy an exhaust side module.. b/c now that i look at them they are corroded on the bottom from water... also my coil brackets are corroded away so the coils are now just sittin in there... those brackets werent used for any kind of grounding where they?
post #38 of 45 Old Oct 26th, 2005, 02:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davinci
well ive decided to buy a intake side ignition module and put it on there to see if it works since the truck should run without the exhaust side.. if this works ill then buy an exhaust side module.. b/c now that i look at them they are corroded on the bottom from water... also my coil brackets are corroded away so the coils are now just sittin in there... those brackets werent used for any kind of grounding where they?
I believ they can recieve ground through the brackets if the ground wire failed but not necessary. My brackets where rusted out too. I currently just have them secured with zip ties for now. I bought some aluminum sheeting at lowes to make new brackets but not gotten to it yet. FYI the hot box mounted just over the coils is what causes the rust most of the time. I plan to remove mine when I get a chance to plan out which hoses to rout where and such. I will post a guide for that when I have completed it for others that wish to do the same. I think that asymbly is around $300 so I would rather by-pass it and throw it out.

It's much easier to travel through a maze when you have a map!

Spat
Former Nissan Tech
14yrs ASE all but AT it's a bitXX!
New career - HandyMan/Electrician - Freedom at last!!

86.5 Nissan HB D21 234K Miles
94 Nissan Altima GXE ? Miles
97 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L 132K Miles
64 Chrysler 300-K 2-door Convertible 63K Miles
post #39 of 45 Old Oct 27th, 2005, 09:46 AM
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Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 6
Engine Cutout and Hard Starting

I'm having an engine cutout and hard starting problem with my 1981 200 SX. The engine cuts out when I'm driving it at low speeds and I cannot get it started again until it cools off. I have long suspected the igniter module inside the dissy but I seem to be having spark at idle and also fuel pressure of up to 25 psi at idle. I'll check the voltage at the throttle body. If it is not up to spec then does that mean I've got to replace the ECM? I want to replace the igniter module with a generic GM 4 pin HEI ignition module. I'm trying to wire it and don't think I have it wired right because the module is getting warm. The original E12-81 igniter module has 3 pins(intake, exhaust and batt) inside the dissy. I have 2 external coils. I'm wondering if I need to get another HEI module since I have 10 plugs on the dissy cap, 8 spark plug wires and 2 for intake and exhaust. Anybody have any input on this? Thanks for the help.

matt

Quote:
Originally Posted by NPath
Here's something a little vague but better than nothing. If interested davinci... read on.








Have you checked the throttle body for correct voltage? You may not be getting the correct voltage where it should be just under 5 volts under normal operating conditions. You may be getting no voltage at all.
post #40 of 45 Old Oct 27th, 2005, 06:47 PM
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Primary Resistance Check

In order to check the coil primary resistance, you must first disconnect all wires from the ignition coil terminals. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the positive (15) and the negative (1) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be.

Z24i (1986-88)-7,600-11,400ω
*

VG30i (1986-88)-7,600-11,400ω

Remember that all Z20, Z22, Z24 and Z24i engines have 2 ignition coils; check them both!

If the resistance is not within these tolerances, the coil will require replacement.


Checking the coil primary resistance-1986-88 Z24i (VG30i similar)

Last edited by ddude2uc; Oct 27th, 2005 at 06:55 PM.
post #41 of 45 Old Nov 1st, 2005, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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hey i still havent recieved the ignition schematic

my email is o0rgy@yahoo.com just copy and paste it into your mail so theres no confusion with the o and the zer0
post #42 of 45 Old Nov 1st, 2005, 10:11 PM
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Posts: 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by davinci
hey i still havent recieved the ignition schematic

my email is o0rgy@yahoo.com just copy and paste it into your mail so theres no confusion with the o and the zer0
Sorry about that, I kept getting bounced mails from that address. I posted a small site using my ISP home page and you can download it from the site at : http://home.sc.rr.com/creekrat/diagnostics.htm

I have also put up a basic trouble shooting guide to use with it. I hope this helps. I will post more stuff when I can locate the Nissan disc for "AllData 8.2" no luck so far on that.

It's much easier to travel through a maze when you have a map!

Spat
Former Nissan Tech
14yrs ASE all but AT it's a bitXX!
New career - HandyMan/Electrician - Freedom at last!!

86.5 Nissan HB D21 234K Miles
94 Nissan Altima GXE ? Miles
97 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L 132K Miles
64 Chrysler 300-K 2-door Convertible 63K Miles
post #43 of 45 Old Nov 6th, 2005, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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well guys sorry i havent been on ive been so busy with g/fs sisters wedding and workin on my replacing my g/fs cv axles n such that i just got back to workin on the truck... but good news

after being so fed up and checkin everythign i dropped 85 dollars on the intake side ignition module... she fired up still runnin ruff but i havent gotten to drive her yet.. it was just a quick check so tomorrow ill b seein how she does with fresh batter and some road time..

thanks sooooo much for everyones help and lets do keep this up to help out others with this problem
post #44 of 45 Old Mar 28th, 2013, 08:25 PM
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87 nissan pickup no spark!

Where are the intake and exhaust modules located? Thanks.
post #45 of 45 Old Mar 29th, 2013, 07:09 AM
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Weak Spark

87 D21 with spark and fuel but won't start, most of the time. No codes in ECU. Replaced distributor but didn't help. Where are the intake and exhaust modules located? Thanks.
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