Think about it..your spending a pile of cash on a build. Most machine shops dont charge much for surfacing a head. The block may cost alittle more, but you will have cofidence in your parts then...
I have been around engines all my life, and honestly I really don't know of any way to check head runout. You are talking thousandths of inches, something that is not easily visable to the naked eye. If you do come up with an idea that works I would love to know.
The way shown in the Haynes and other manuals, including factory, is to lay a known good straight edge across the long end and various other angles (corner to corner, corner to center, etc) and try to slip a particular width of feeler guage under it. It takes a while to check a head this way, but you should get some pretty definitive results. Most head warpage will be pretty noticeable using this method.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
The way shown in the Haynes and other manuals, including factory, is to lay a known good straight edge across the long end and various other angles (corner to corner, corner to center, etc) and try to slip a particular width of feeler guage under it. It takes a while to check a head this way, but you should get some pretty definitive results. Most head warpage will be pretty noticeable using this method.
Shine a bright light behind the straight edge and sight along the surface of the head for light shining through to spot areas for measurement.
the problem here is the guy doesn't have a straightedge.
I suggest taking the head and blobk to a machine shop and pay them a few bucks to check it out for you. much cheaper than a good Starrett straightedge that you'd only use once.
the problem here is the guy doesn't have a straightedge.
I suggest taking the head and blobk to a machine shop and pay them a few bucks to check it out for you. much cheaper than a good Starrett straightedge that you'd only use once.
I use straight edges a lot. And at todays prices I doubt having a machine shop check anything is "only a few bucks". Generally they charge by the hour, and any part of an hour is a full hour. I'd say minumum $50 to do this, more like $75-$80. I could buy 10 straight edges for that......
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
I use straight edges a lot. And at todays prices I doubt having a machine shop check anything is "only a few bucks". Generally they charge by the hour, and any part of an hour is a full hour. I'd say minumum $50 to do this, more like $75-$80. I could buy 10 straight edges for that......
mind telling me where to find a Starrett straightedge for $8?
Well in automotive applications I don't think I would invest in Starrett anything. I don't think it warrants the extra digits in cost. I suggested that one above, though there are shorter cheaper ones on amazon, only because to measure the head I think you need to be able to do the diagonals too if I remember the FSM correctly.
Yeah, pretty sure a $7 Stanley would do the same trick.
I don't know about that... Usually companies like that make stuff for wood working and don't really need precise flat surfaces. I mean generally moving metal parts usually require something that can be accurate in the thousandths. I think a good 50-100 buck flat edge is good enough.
By the way I'm going to edit some of the comments in this thread to keep it on subject.
HEAD WARPAGE
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And at todays prices I doubt having a machine shop check anything is "only a few bucks". Generally they charge by the hour, and any part of an hour is a full hour. I'd say minumum $50 to do this, more like $75-$80. I could buy 10 straight edges for that......
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