Best Torque Wrench?

Wufaded · Nov 16th, 2004, 06:40 PM

I want to invest in a torque wrench, renting one from AutoZone isn't so convenient anymore.

I do have some questions:

Should I get a 1/2" drive or a 3/8" drive? I was thinking that a 1/2" drive with a 1/2-3/8 reducer will cover almost all applications on my vehicle.

What measurement range would be ideal? One of the problems with the Autozone wrench is that I can't use it on certain areas, i.e. the oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, or strut bolts. A Craftsman wrench I was checking the specs on had a .50 to 250 ft. lbs range. I am not sure if this is overkill, I know the lower/higher the range is the more $$$$$.

Any feedback/suggestions would be appreciated....I'm interested in what the members here have to say

lshadoff · Nov 16th, 2004, 06:55 PM

I have two torque wrenches, 1/2 inch drive for ft.lbs, and 1/8 inch drive for in.lbs. I found that 1/2 inch drive torque wrenches are not accurate at very low torque settings (in.lbs.).

Lew

**Matt93SE** · Nov 16th, 2004, 07:18 PM

look again at the specs on the craftsman one... the one I have is a craftsman and rated at 25-250 ft.lb.

it's good for anything above about 40lb. I wouldn't recommend it for use below 40. just not very accurate.

for stuff like engine work, I'd say to get a 3/8" drive for most of it. most of the bolts on aluminum engines are in the 10-30 ft.lb. range with the exception of the head studs.

So to really do both, I'd suggest spending the money on 1/2 and 3/8".
If you're just doing brakes and wheels, get the larger one. If you're doing engine work, get the smaller one.

James · Nov 16th, 2004, 10:08 PM

There is a 0-50inch/lb. clicker type wrench from Grainger that is pretty cheap... like $50 bucks from what I recall.

Zen31ZR · Nov 16th, 2004, 10:09 PM

I read something somewhere about how using a reducer can cause a difference between the actual torque and the readings. That you should use the same size all the way to the socket, whether 1/2" or 3/8". Anyone wish to confirm or deny?

**Matt93SE** · Nov 16th, 2004, 11:10 PM

the reducers shouldn't (in theory) change the torque applied, as long as you hold the wrench securely and it twists directly on-axis with the bolts you're torquing.

the main cause of error on those torque readings is because people put an extension on the wrench and try to torque it without bracing both ends of the wrench. it puts a twisting and a lateral force on the bolt, which causes the torque readings to go crazy-- just like using a large t-handle lug wrench and only pulling on one corner of it. good way to snap a wheel stud. the proper way is to push on one end while pulling on the other so that it twists on the axis of the bolt..

hope that makes sense.. I know what I'm trying to say anyway.......

Crazy-Mart · Nov 17th, 2004, 03:18 AM

Like Matt93SE says , most of the extension/reducer and boxes are made from harden steel or a chrome-vanadium alloy making the "chance" of twisting the tool itself quite implosible without breaking it (snaping) ...

sure thing lateral forces wont help you get a good reading neither will it be good on your knuckle...

you got to keep it straight

asleepz · Nov 17th, 2004, 10:02 PM

I have a Sunex 1/2 drive and I like it