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Suspension & Brakes Technical discussion about suspension and brakes

       
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Old May 15th, 2005, 10:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
waznme
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Question Slotted vs. Drilled vs. blanks

I recently bought an 05 spec-v w/brembo brake kit. I just started auto-crossing the car, and am totally hooked on it now. I would like to know what my best option would be to upgrade my brakes. The car is completly stock as of this post, but a Nismo CAI and Unorthodox pully are on the way.
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Old May 15th, 2005, 11:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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for auto X, leave the brakes alone. they're more than up to the task.
if you have problems with them, upgrade the pads. leave the rotors alone.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 12:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Carbotech, Hawk and NISMO make brake pads that fit your car. Before even changing the pads, upgrading the fluid and getting stainless steel lines are always a good idea.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 08:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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depending on the class he's competing in at Solo II, SS lines may not be allowed...
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Old May 16th, 2005, 11:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
depending on the class he's competing in at Solo II, SS lines may not be allowed...
Wouldn't the underdrive pulley put him out of stock too?
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Old May 16th, 2005, 05:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
depending on the class he's competing in at Solo II, SS lines may not be allowed...
according to my rule book i am ok adding ss lines, different rotors, & pads as long as they are the same size as stock...which is cool with me, cause the brembos are 4 piston calipers & 12" rotors.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 05:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReVerm
Wouldn't the underdrive pulley put him out of stock too?
i am allowed 0-2 points, which for me (according to the rule book) the CAI is 1 point and the pulley is one point. This keeps me in stock class, which is where i want to be until i really learn what my car can do.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 05:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zac
Carbotech, Hawk and NISMO make brake pads that fit your car. Before even changing the pads, upgrading the fluid and getting stainless steel lines are always a good idea.
after the fluid change, and ss lines, would drilled/slotted rotors help me or not? i am seeing some posting that say the drilled rotors are less sturdy than blanks and may break. i would be getting direct bolt-on replacements from brembo, not some second rate stuff.

isn't drilling/slotting also supposed to help in dispersion of gasses built up under hard braking?

aren't they less weight, and that the power needed to get the big rotors spinning up to speed in the first place be reduced, thus giving me more effective hp to the pavement?

The other thing that is driving this question is that i just like the look of them. I know there are a lot of questions here, but i just want to hear some opinions/experiences before i spend a couple hundo's to get them on all four corners.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 07:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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drilled rotors are more prone to cracking under heavy/repeated braking, which you're likely to face if your auto-x-ing. If, however, you had a street car, and you wern't likely to be doing heavy braking, i'd say to go for 'em. Slotted rotors are less likely to crack than drilled rotors, but still more likely to crack than "blank" or OEM-style rotors (i hope that made sense...)

However, youre right that they're lighter (obviously) and help to disperse gasses. So yeah - i'd upgrade the pads and the lines, but the rotors should be fine. Good luck w/ur auto-x-ing!
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Old May 16th, 2005, 08:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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slotted and drilled(decreased brake surface) are for show only... upgrade your brake pads,,, i heard aem is good.


Quote:
Originally Posted by waznme
I recently bought an 05 spec-v w/brembo brake kit. I just started auto-crossing the car, and am totally hooked on it now. I would like to know what my best option would be to upgrade my brakes. The car is completly stock as of this post, but a Nismo CAI and Unorthodox pully are on the way.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 08:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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No they aren't for show, It's to create more surface area to disipate heat better, and to lessen rotating mass
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Old May 16th, 2005, 09:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Since you are doing autocrossing, you are best off with rotors which are not drilled. Although good drilled rotors are excellent for street usage, slotted is generally the preference for heavier track usage.

You will see a much significant difference when upgrading the pads than the rotors. I do not know about other companies but Carbotech makes the XP-8 and Panther Plus. The XP-8 is a track pad, and I would not use it for street usage simply because of the noise it makes. Generally, the meaner track pads will also wear rotors faster which is why it may be a good idea to consider having both track and street pads.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 09:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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For auto X use, you do not get the brakes hot enough for any high performance pad to really be of much benefit. use a pad that has good cold braking and maintains a consistent pedal up to a few hundred degrees. in 60 seconds, you'll never get the rotors over 3-400 degrees, and that's an absolute maximum. pads like the Carbotech XP-8 aren't made for stuff like that and will actually eat away at your rotors until they get to several hundred degrees. I have a set in my track box for those days, but otherwise they stay there...

For a good pad, look at Axxis/PBR ultimates, or Ferodo DS2500. They both work well on low temp stops and have consistent friction levels all the way up to hard-braking road course temps. don't bother with Axxis Metal Master, as they need a bit of heat to start working. your first few stops of each run will have problems with the cold temps..

As for drilling and slotting, again, stay away.
Drilling is for show only, or $200,000 Ferraris with $15,000 brake systems. on a street car that sees tons of thermal shock like autocrossing on cold rotors and sudden stops on the street when grandma cuts you off, you're better staying away from drilled rotors. they tend to crack.. The weight savings is minimal. maybe an ounce or two on each rotor. At that point, you can get the same weight savings by skipping breakfast the day of your Auto X event, or shaving your tires a couple 1/32" or a gallon less gas in the tank, or _________________. the weight savings are minimal.

slotted rotors are fine, but again, only for show.

Modern pad compounds don't have issues with outgassing like they did even just 15 years ago. no reason to have slotted rotors on a street car unless you like driving through deep water and need the cheesegrater effect to scrape the moisture away. otherwise there's no need...

for Auto X/street use, you want good quality solid rotors. nothing else will work any better. Your brake pads are the most important part of the entire system for Auto X use, no matter what anyone else tells you.


As for the SS lines, they are NOT ALLOWED in stock class.
http://scca.org/_filelibrary/File/2005SoloRules.pdf
look on page 66.
sec 13.6.B
"B. Substitution of clutch and brake hydraulic lines with solid metal or
braided metal is allowed on all cars manufactured before model
year 1992."

Since yours is an '05 model, it does not fall into that category and thus the mod is not allowed in stock classes.
If you go to Street Touring, Street Prepared, Modified, etc.. they all allow the SS lines. only one that doesn't is stock class.

If you're competing on only a local level, then usually they don't care about something as trivial as this, but if you're competing on a divisional or national level, you'd best follow the rules to the letter.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 09:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zac
Since you are doing autocrossing, you are best off with rotors which are not drilled. Although good drilled rotors are excellent for street usage, slotted is generally the preference for heavier track usage.

You will see a much significant difference when upgrading the pads than the rotors. I do not know about other companies but Carbotech makes the XP-8 and Panther Plus. The XP-8 is a track pad, and I would not use it for street usage simply because of the noise it makes. Generally, the meaner track pads will also wear rotors faster which is why it may be a good idea to consider having both track and street pads.
i figure that i will be racing about 8 races a year, so if i understand correctly, i would be ok getting some brembo combination rotors that are both slotted and drilled all on one. also get a more street friendly pad, as i would rather go through pads than rotors.
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Old May 16th, 2005, 09:46 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Matt, I thought the XP-8 was designed for lower temps and ran well at about 250 degrees? Maybe I am thinking of the Panther Plus?

The Bobcats have been reccomended for lighter track usage, but I always thought they were made for primarily street usage?
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