After driving my dads durango for about a week i fell in love with how smooth its supsension system is, u can barely feel any bumps.
I drive an 87 300zx NA, with bilstein shocks and i think OEM springs, i don't know the stats other then that, what could i do to my Z's suspension to make it ride smoother like the durango or any truck for that matter?
i hate the fact that i feel every little bump and hole in the ground, i wanna try to keep as close to stock ride height as possible but a small drop wont matter if theres absolutly no choice
so what do i need to make my Z ride like its on air (a softer ride but not sloppy soft)?
also: are there any performance benefits from changing stock brake lines to s.s., or braided teflon? which is better?
SS is braided teflon on the brakes... the lines are a teflon tubing core, with a wire braid of SS around it to keep it from expanding.
as for the softer ride, I'm not sure how stiff the bilsteins are, but you may want to go to a softer shock. also check our the rest of your suspension to make sure all your bushings and body mounts are in good condition. they can really add a lot of harshness to the ride if they're worn.
Also look at your wheels and tires. are you running 18" wheels and your tires aired up to 75psi? you could fell a dollar bill with that setup. (I'm exaggerating, but you get my point). running the factory 15s or 16s and tires at stock pressures should provide a smoother ride than huge rims with a very short sidewall to absorb the bumps.
Also remember your Z is a sports coupe. it's MEANT to feel like you're connected to the road, not driving a huge couch down the highway like a Durango. If you want a Caddilac ride, then buy a Caddy.
just cracks and sagging parts in general..
from what I understand, the cars had a severe problem with the rear end bushings.. when they get worn, you end up with some insane rear camber angles and tire wear issues..
unfortunately I don't know a lot about the Z31 other than what I've mentioned, so just get it on the rack and start looking for worn bushigns...
remember, the pivot points should be in the center of all of them. if they're off to one side, then they're sagging and worn.
put it this way... if the bushings are the original ones on the car, then they NEED replaced. they're almost 20 years old, and rubber just doesn't last that long.
as far as SS lines are concerned, they are stronger and best of all the feedback is night and day over rubber. i can now minapulate the brake to the exact point right before it locks up but not letting it get their. if you practice threshold braking, you will notice an immediate difference.
put it this way... if the bushings are the original ones on the car, then they NEED replaced. they're almost 20 years old, and rubber just doesn't last that long.
don't know on cost of replacing the bushings... never done it myself. they'd be around $200 if you went all factory on a Maxima, but they're only about $80 if you go with energy suspension bushings. there are also a lot fewer bushings on ours than on the Z31...
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