OK, originally this was going to just be a quick write-up, but over time I just
had to add more and more information to remove any ambiguities. Next thing
I knew it was rather large. Oh well, hope this helps someone out there... (maybe make it a sticky??)
NOTES:
a) This is not necessarily the best or the only way to do this, but it is the
way I did it.

b) In order to save myself some time I am going to assume that the reader
has a general knowledge of automotive procedures, tools, and parts.
c) These instructions can be used as a general guide to install almost any
general spring & shock combination on this platform, but the specific parts
used in this example are as follows:
1. Eibach Pro Kit springs
2. KYB AGX gas shocks
3. Motivational Engineering rear strut mounts
4. Koni bump stops
SUGGESTED TOOLS (assuming no air tools available):
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1. Strut-spring compressor (not a coil-spring compressor!)
2. Rachet & socket set
3. One large and one small rubber hammer
4. Pliers
5. WD-40
6. Anti-seize compound
7. Flat-head screwdriver
8. Wrenches
9. Torque wrench
10. Hydraulic jack and stands
SUGGESTED PROCEDURE:
------------------------------------------------------------------------
FRONT:
--------------
1) While the strut assembly is still in the vehicle loosen the top strut nut a
little bit, but DO NOT remove it completely at this time.
2) Remove the 3 strut assembly bolts at the hood ledge and remove the 2
at the steering knuckle.
3) Disconnect the brake line holder bracket.
4) Remove strut assembly from wheel-well.
5) Compress stock spring with the strut-spring compressor and remove the
top strut nut.
6) Completely disassemble the strut assembly.
7) Compress the new spring and slide it around the new piston rod.
8) Install the upper spring seat and the strut mount insulator with the arrows
facing toward the outside of the vehicle (pointing outward towards the
strut-to-knuckle attachment points at the bottom).
9) Screw the piston rod locking nut on a few threads.
10) Uncompress the spring, making sure every other component stays
aligned.
11) Now... you can choose to either completely tighten the piston rod locking
nut while the strut assembly is out of the car, or after it is installed. For me,
it was easier to tighten it down all the way after it was installed, but MAKE
SURE YOU DO IT, otherwise you will get a nasty clanking noise coming from
the front strut assemblies, and potentially break something. Also, you may
need to hold the piston rod with a pair of pliers to tighten the nut down all
the way.
Pieced together, the new FRONT assembly should be in the following order
from TOP to BOTTOM...
1. STOCK piston rod lock nut
2. STOCK strut mount insulator
3. STOCK strut mount insulator bracket
4. STOCK thrust bearing
5. STOCK upper spring seat
6. STOCK upper spring rubber seat
7. Koni bump stop (tapered end facing down)
Compressed Eibach spring using a strut-spring compressor...
This is what the new front strut assembly should look like compared to stock...
Front strut assembly close-up...
This is what the new front strut assembly should look like when it is installed...
This is what the top of the strut assembly should look like after it is fully installed...

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
REAR: (very much like the front...)
------------------------------------
1) Get to the top of the rear strut assembly by un-snapping part of the rear
carpeting from the area where the trunk opens to the back seat.
2) While the strut assembly is still in the vehicle loosen the piston rod lock
nut a little bit, but DO NOT remove it completely at this time.
3) Remove the 2 strut assembly bolts from where the strut assembly
connects the body and remove the 1 at the torsion beam.
4) Remove strut assembly from wheel-well.
5) Compress the stock spring with the strut-spring compressor and remove
the piston rod lock nut.
6) Completely disassemble the strut assembly.
7) Add the bottom rubber seals from the stock spring to the bottom of the
new spring.
8) Compress the new spring and slide it around the new piston rod.
9) Install the appropriate bushings and washers as shown in the order below.
10) Screw the piston rod locking nut on a few threads.
11) Uncompress the spring, making sure every other component stays
aligned.
12) Again... you can now choose to either completely tighten the piston rod
locking nut while the strut assembly is out of the car, or after it is installed.
(see step 11 above)
Pieced together, the new REAR assembly should be in the following order from
TOP to BOTTOM...
1. STOCK piston rod lock nut
2. STOCK gold washer
3. Motiv. red urethane bushing (w/protrusion facing up)
4. Motiv. red urethane bushing (w/protrusion facing down)
5. Motiv. rear strut mount
6. STOCK upper spring rubber seat
7. Motiv. red urethane bushing (w/protrusion facing up)
8. Motiv. hardened metal washer
9. Koni bump stop (tapered end facing down)
Pieced together, this is what the new rear strut assembly should look like...
Rear strut assembly close-up...
This is what the new rear strut assembly should look like when it is installed...

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Now you're gonna need a full alignment! And if you don't know of any
reputable shops in your area that will align a modified vehicle you might just
want to search
www.tirerack.com under "recommended installers."
Make sure to check off 'Shocks/struts', 'Springs', and 'Performance
suspension products'.
Hope I didn't forget anything...
