hi, i'm a newbie to the forum.....
my car is a Sentra GX 1.3 model - Philippine Release
guys, just want to know something.....
when my wheels are off, i could shake the front brake cylinder body as well
as the rotor, but when the wheels are on, the rotor could not be shaken but
i can push the cylinder body inward.....
just wandering is this normal? tried to tighten the pin bolts but they are
already tight?
need your inputs before i bring my car to the mechanic....
hi, i'm a newbie to the forum.....
my car is a Sentra GX 1.3 model - Philippine Release
guys, just want to know something.....
when my wheels are off, i could shake the front brake cylinder body as well
as the rotor, but when the wheels are on, the rotor could not be shaken but
i can push the cylinder body inward.....
just wandering is this normal? tried to tighten the pin bolts but they are
already tight?
need your inputs before i bring my car to the mechanic....
What do you mean by "cylinder body"? I think that's what's confusing everyone who wants to but can't respond to your thread.
cylinder body - the one that holds the brake pads, it is connected to the torque member via the pin bolts.....
just got a copy of the service manual for n16 sentra's, i brought the car to the service center and they did as what i read on the manual, the mechanic just added grease to the caliper.....
While slightly OT, I am guessing your car is a 1.3 liter and that you get amazing gas mileage? If they had those in the US, I would buy one to save on the rising prices.
cylinder body - the one that holds the brake pads, it is connected to the torque member via the pin bolts.....
just got a copy of the service manual for n16 sentra's, i brought the car to the service center and they did as what i read on the manual, the mechanic just added grease to the caliper.....
Ok, so you are talking about what we just refer to as the caliper around here. Now, did greasing the caliper pins fix the problem?
Movement of the entire assembly can also indicate that either one of the lower bolts on the torque member are loose or that the wheel bearing is going. Don't overtorque any of the bolts or pins though. It isn't that easy to do, but if any of these bolts should snap you will not have a pleasant drive home.
greasing the calipers remove the noise that i hear whenever i pass a not so paved road..... and it has lessen the play, i think it is within specs now....
from the looks of the position of the torque member bolts, your very right....
if one snaps, looks like a wrecker will bring me home.....
have checked all bolts under my car and everything seems to be tight enough
it's a 1.3L engine, i get a lot of mileage for every liter of gas i load....
greasing the calipers remove the noise that i hear whenever i pass a not so paved road..... and it has lessen the play, i think it is within specs now....
from the looks of the position of the torque member bolts, your very right....
if one snaps, looks like a wrecker will bring me home.....
have checked all bolts under my car and everything seems to be tight enough
it's a 1.3L engine, i get a lot of mileage for every liter of gas i load....
thank you all for the info.....
Sorry we couldn't be of more help. I hope everything works out ok with it.
lemarv,
Your car is ok, what you mentioned is normal. The calipers are supposed to be free-floating and able to move in- and out-board. That's what allows both inside and outside brake pads to automatically squeeze the rotor equally.
Dunno if this is a good example, but think of a bicycle's brakes and the mechanism that squeezes the pads against the rim. with the brakes released, the whole mechanism can be moved back and forth freely but squeeze equally when you pull the brake handle. the free-floating movement of your cars calipers are comparable to this.
With the wheels off, and the brake cylinder compressed, the assembly should slide somewhat freely in- and out-board. If the mechanism becomes frozen for some reason you'll get real uneven wear between the inside and outside pads. This is why the mechanic only re-greased it. Rest assured, disc brakes are all built similarly - if there was something unusual he would have noticed.
As far as the rotor, it is not secured to the hub and can can be moved around when the wheel is removed. when you put the wheel on and tighten the lugnuts the rotor is secure.
Hey just curious, do you have specs on the 1.3? HP and torque numbers? What's the redline on that engine? Thanks and good luck.
EDIT: the calipers should not be LOOSE with everything put back together though... with the brake cylinder tight and the lines bled you should not be able to move anything...
__________________
. Platinum Gold '98 200SX SE-R 17" Nippon Ver.5 AEM in/Tenzo R out Intake cam 17* Tein SS 336lb F+R w/pillowballs Progress rear sway bar Shigspeed LCA brace F/R strut bars H&R Trak+ Prothane/ES polys B&M SS/Nismo GT Ti JWT PP Stillen Type2 wing
________________
Last edited by Greg200SE-R : May 27th, 2004 at 09:20 PM.