Just finished assembeling the GC AGX setup. I am using the B13 front AGX's, B14 rear AGX's, GC coilovers with 350F/300R rates, Motivational engineering rear upper mounts, Koni bump stops, and Ground Control camber plates.
I used the NPM/Kojima method using duct tape and silicone, worked great, seems MUCH more solid than the rubber o-rings! I also chose to cut off the front spring perches for a cleaner look and to possibly run a wider tire.
I am installing the assembly tomorrow and I will post my impressions after the autocross on Sunday.
Location: B.S. from University of Connecticut in 2003
Posts: 351
LOL.. I guess I should've taken a snap shot of your first post as an evidence, but it's ok, because it has been recorded that you have edited your post.
anyways sorry for getting off topic. can wait for your impressions!!
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"Those who stand for nothing, will fall for anything"
I installed everything last night. Install went OK. After seeing Jacen use the Courtesy bar (with the ribs in the brackets) I bolted the plates on top of it. Everything fits and works fine, got the car aligned this morning. Feels GREAT, everything I disliked about the ride on the AGX/Sportline is fixed with the GC setup. The 350/300 springs feel great! Very firm, but no harsh bottoming with the newfound suspension travel.
Here's the issue. I cannot seem to get the top nut (that fits into the bearing of the camber plate and threads on to the strut) tight enough. I used a flat head screwdriver on the flat part of the strut to keep the shaft from spinning and tightened it down good. After 10 miles or so on regular streets (read: bumpy and shitty) I get a lot of noise/clunking. When I check those bolts I can see the strut shaft has rotated and the bolts are a bit loose again, not majorly loose, but I can tighten them back up. With everything tight it's PERFECT, I don't have any none of the noises commonly associated with this setup. Anyone got any ideas? How did everyone secure the strut shaft while tightening that nut? Think it has anything to do with using that particular STB?
Also, there are holes in the top mount (for the spring) included with the GC plates. Has anyone used those to zip tie the springs to the plate? If not what are they for?
Originally posted by wes I installed everything last night. Install went OK. After seeing Jacen use the Courtesy bar (with the ribs in the brackets) I bolted the plates on top of it. Everything fits and works fine, got the car aligned this morning. Feels GREAT, everything I disliked about the ride on the AGX/Sportline is fixed with the GC setup. The 350/300 springs feel great! Very firm, but no harsh bottoming with the newfound suspension travel.
Here's the issue. I cannot seem to get the top nut (that fits into the bearing of the camber plate and threads on to the strut) tight enough. I used a flat head screwdriver on the flat part of the strut to keep the shaft from spinning and tightened it down good. After 10 miles or so on regular streets (read: bumpy and shitty) I get a lot of noise/clunking. When I check those bolts I can see the strut shaft has rotated and the bolts are a bit loose again, not majorly loose, but I can tighten them back up. With everything tight it's PERFECT, I don't have any none of the noises commonly associated with this setup. Anyone got any ideas? How did everyone secure the strut shaft while tightening that nut? Think it has anything to do with using that particular STB?
Also, there are holes in the top mount (for the spring) included with the GC plates. Has anyone used those to zip tie the springs to the plate? If not what are they for?
Wes, hit it with a short burst of an air impact. Don't go off too much though or your shock piston could unscrew or get damged.
I thought about that, thanks Mike. I've been doing some thinking about that bar though, because of the ribs it does not let the GC plates sit level. They are raised slightly. When I had the alignment done the passenger side plate was all the way out and I had 2 degrees of negative camber, this means with the suspension set where it is 2 degrees is the least I could run. The alignment is great for what I am doing, just thinking about that bar being less than ideal.
I tried zip ties on the top mounts.....after one auto-x the zip ties broke. It's purpose is the keep the spring and spring perch mated when you raise your car up on jack stands. At least that is what I was told by the guys at GC.
Also what Mike said is right, use an impact wrench in a short burst....problem solved.
So.........you ready to go head to head in a B13 vs B14 showdown .......... Welcome to the ranks of the elite...
Originally posted by wes I thought about that, thanks Mike. I've been doing some thinking about that bar though, because of the ribs it does not let the GC plates sit level. They are raised slightly. When I had the alignment done the passenger side plate was all the way out and I had 2 degrees of negative camber, this means with the suspension set where it is 2 degrees is the least I could run. The alignment is great for what I am doing, just thinking about that bar being less than ideal.
I make brackets that bolt onto the GC CC plates that'll let you use the Courtesy bar while not dealing the the plates issues. They are designed to be used with a Stillen bar so you MAY have to grind down the end bolt flat to 0.5" wide from 0.53" or so to fit. Otherwise should bolt right in. Let me know if you're interested. See http://photos.yahoo.com/shigspeed for a pic.
I make brackets that bolt onto the GC CC plates that'll let you use the Courtesy bar while not dealing the the plates issues. They are designed to be used with a Stillen bar so you MAY have to grind down the end bolt flat to 0.5" wide from 0.53" or so to fit. Otherwise should bolt right in. Let me know if you're interested. See http://photos.yahoo.com/shigspeed for a pic.
-Scott
Scott's stuff is quite sano as well, Wes you need to meet him or you might have at the convention.
Arrgh, I had the opportunity to buy these brackets from Dan. I bought GC plates brand new from him and he had a set of your brackets. I didn't realize I could have just ground down th end link and been in business, I thought I'd have to get the Stolen bar too.
Scott are you the gentleman that had the control arm brace at the convention, you were showing it to Greg from Mossy at the track day? If so then we spoke about your bar. Very nice BTW and I love the brackets how do I get a set from you?
On a side note, the plates being mounted on top of the bar add suspension travel. I just thought about this. Since the increased travel from the plates is gained by placing them on top of the strut tower, I must be gaining travel by placing them higher with the bracket mounted underneath. Food for thought, maybe I'll just cut holes in the hood and make 2" spacers for the plates, then I won't need shortened struts I see a new company on the horizon, ghetto engineering!
Originally posted by Eric I tried zip ties on the top mounts.....after one auto-x the zip ties broke. It's purpose is the keep the spring and spring perch mated when you raise your car up on jack stands. At least that is what I was told by the guys at GC.
Also what Mike said is right, use an impact wrench in a short burst....problem solved.
So.........you ready to go head to head in a B13 vs B14 showdown .......... Welcome to the ranks of the elite...
I did zip tie the springs after I posted that, I have not checked to see if they broke after yesterday's event.
B13 VS B14. HMMM you of all people should know the only true test is of the driver. We run your car at one event, then my car at the next event. Then we KNOW for sure Ready when you are!
Elite, heh, far from. I still suck at autocrossing I have SOOOO many things I know I can do better. At least I can;t out drive the suspension anymore. FWIW the AGX Sportline setup was not that bad on smooth lots. Handeled pretty damn good actually, but yes, the GC setup is head and shoulders above it.
Originally posted by wes Arrgh, I had the opportunity to buy these brackets from Dan. I bought GC plates brand new from him and he had a set of your brackets. I didn't realize I could have just ground down th end link and been in business, I thought I'd have to get the Stolen bar too.
Scott are you the gentleman that had the control arm brace at the convention, you were showing it to Greg from Mossy at the track day? If so then we spoke about your bar. Very nice BTW and I love the brackets how do I get a set from you?
On a side note, the plates being mounted on top of the bar add suspension travel. I just thought about this. Since the increased travel from the plates is gained by placing them on top of the strut tower, I must be gaining travel by placing them higher with the bracket mounted underneath. Food for thought, maybe I'll just cut holes in the hood and make 2" spacers for the plates, then I won't need shortened struts I see a new company on the horizon, ghetto engineering!
Why did Dan sell the plates!?
Yeah, I had the control arm brace at the Convention.
As for increasing travel further, it does work, but you lose adjustability because the top hat begins to taper out and it'll contact the body before getting max camber or caster. It's a tradeoff really. Get all the camber and caster you want/need, then shim the plates for max travel. I think the 1/8" - 1/4" of extra travel really won't help you much if your alignment is compromised.
Talk to me if you ever decide on shortened struts! :^)
I KNEW that was the reason it was hitting the top. Anyway, yeah I'm gonna ditch the courtesy brackets, I HATE the way it looks. Also, the plates have bent with the tightening of the plates so the bar is VERY closed to the hose fittings on the top of the IM.
Not sure why he sold the plates, guess he needed money. It worked out good for both of us anyway.
If I decide on shortened struts I will look you up. But first I wanna be your B14 guinea pig for the STB brackets. We did speak at the convention.
GC AGX setup assembeled.
Are you goofy?
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