i have the eibach pro kit on my 98 200sx and the front end sits way higher than the rear. i called eibach and gave them the spring numbers and they said they were right. does anyone else have this problem?? any advice?
Originally posted by psi wanted i have the eibach pro kit on my 98 200sx and the front end sits way higher than the rear. i called eibach and gave them the spring numbers and they said they were right. does anyone else have this problem?? any advice?
There is nothing wrong with your springs. Unfortunately all B14 with those springs look higher front end. If you look at the car carefully, Front wheel arch is a lot higher than rear. That's one of the main reason why your car looks like that. For JDM (Japanese Domestic Market), Nissan re-designed rear fender arch (raised) for newer (97 and newer) B14 Sunny to prevent that ugly front raised look, but US market B14s did not get that update. There is nothing really you can do to fix this problem unless you use two different kind of springs front and rear (not recommended unless you know what those spring rates are) or get coilovers.
there are also certain brands that realize the front/rear height diff in our cars and make the front springs lower than the rear. i have B&G springs that are supposed to lower the front 2" and the rear 1.7". i just have to wait till i accumulate some other suspension pieces before i get everything installed.
the diff. is easy to see when you look at a stock suspension car.
After installing lowered springs (2.0F 1.7R), my car had serious bottoming out problem. Rear bottomed out often even with Motivational rear upper mounts. With Pro-Kit (1.4) I had minor bottoming out problem, but with Motivational rear upper mounts, It doesn't bottom out anymore. Just like Pat says, I think if you lower the car more than 1.5 inch with stock side struts, your car will bottom out no matter what. In my opinion, cutting springs is unsafe unless you know the spring rates. I would stay away from that method.
I have the prokit too. My front end looks higher too because of the larger fender gap. I heard that when you get AGX dampers, If you get the b13 front ones, they will somewhat correct this problem.
And YES, I know that the b13 front strut option is meant for the fact that the strut gives more travel, but I have heard that it has the added bonus of making the front look as low as the back b/c they're shorter.
Unless the strut is so short that it compresses the hell out of the spring, strut size wont affect height. The car sits on the springs not the struts. From what I understood the B13 struts have a shorter body(case) but the close to the same extended leagnth. If thats not the case then maybe it would lower the car some.
__________________
Patrick Scott
Yeah, thats a roll cage in there.
I shall call him...Mini-Me
Originally posted by PatScottAKA99XE Everyone I have talke to with those springs and aftermarket struts still has bottoming problems. Here is some info for ya. No mater how you lower a B14, If you do not use shorter struts it will bottom out.
Not only that, but you have just ruined the all of the engineering that went into choosing the spring rates on those springs. With one swift cut you have stiffened the rate to an unknown number. the car will understeer now worse than ever.
This is totaly correct, you cannot really even lower a B14 much without causing it to bottom unless you go up drasticaly in spring rate. Pro-kits on these cars are a joke and sportlines are a bigger joke.
If you look in the rear with pro-kits, you will see that you have maybe 1/2" of travel! If you cut the bump rubber down, you will have like 1" which is still stupid. In the front you have like 3/4". With the prokeit spring rate, you bottom under roll in turns!
If you ever see b14's set up like this on the road course, they are always bouncing and pushing like pigs because of this.
Thats why you gotta at least run a B13 front strut, which gains about 1" of travel, a GC coil over spring kit with about 325-350 front and 300 rear springs with motivational rear spring seats and koni bump stops.
Even with this yo ucan only lower the car maybe 1-1.5". People never belive me on this but I say , lets take it to the track or autocross course and I'll prove it by beating you by several seconds at least!
Originally posted by LIUSPEED what about the TIEN coil over systems? will they lead 2 bottoming out like you guyz said?
I did some inquiring about the Tein HA kit for the Nissan JN15, Tein told me that the dampers are shortened. Not sure about the new SS kit though. Drop them a line and ask.
__________________
Patrick Scott
Yeah, thats a roll cage in there.
I shall call him...Mini-Me
This is totaly correct, you cannot really even lower a B14 much without causing it to bottom unless you go up drasticaly in spring rate. Pro-kits on these cars are a joke and sportlines are a bigger joke.
If you look in the rear with pro-kits, you will see that you have maybe 1/2" of travel! If you cut the bump rubber down, you will have like 1" which is still stupid. In the front you have like 3/4". With the prokeit spring rate, you bottom under roll in turns!
If you ever see b14's set up like this on the road course, they are always bouncing and pushing like pigs because of this.
Thats why you gotta at least run a B13 front strut, which gains about 1" of travel, a GC coil over spring kit with about 325-350 front and 300 rear springs with motivational rear spring seats and koni bump stops.
Even with this yo ucan only lower the car maybe 1-1.5". People never belive me on this but I say , lets take it to the track or autocross course and I'll prove it by beating you by several seconds at least!
We arent talking about autocross only though. This is normal joe shmoe street driving. I can understand autocross but you just don't take turns at 70-90 MPH in normal driving to warrant this.
Why do many of the people with prokits, and all the accessories (KYB B13 fronts, motivational rear mounts, koni bump stops) not have any bottoming out then? It can't be luck because we all have the same car here a B14.
Neil, you answered your own question, what you need depends on how/where you drive. If you drive hard all off the time you will need the fancy stuff. If just crusie and want a little better looks and respnonse, you may be happy with lowering springs, AGX's, rear mounts, ect. You must decide on what you need and how you drive before you decide on what route to take with your suspension upgrades.
__________________
Patrick Scott
Yeah, thats a roll cage in there.
I shall call him...Mini-Me
We arent talking about autocross only though. This is normal joe shmoe street driving. I can understand autocross but you just don't take turns at 70-90 MPH in normal driving to warrant this.
Why do many of the people with prokits, and all the accessories (KYB B13 fronts, motivational rear mounts, koni bump stops) not have any bottoming out then? It can't be luck because we all have the same car here a B14.
To be honest, they are not good enough drivers to be able to tell that they are bottoming out. Either that or many people don't want to admit that there mods suck.
The reason I originaly worked with Ground Control to come out with a spring kit with higher rate springs is that the carwas bottoming out everywhere, even on the street. On the street a prokit car would bottom violently!
To be honest, they are not good enough drivers to be able to tell that they are bottoming out. Either that or many people don't want to admit that there mods suck.
The reason I originaly worked with Ground Control to come out with a spring kit with higher rate springs is that the carwas bottoming out everywhere, even on the street. On the street a prokit car would bottom violently!
Taken from Sentra.net - Kojima's Garage, Suggested setups:
"Normal High Performance Budget Streetcar
Eibach Pro-Kit springs
KYB AGX, shocks set on softest setting, Koni in the middle setting.
Suspension Techniques swaybars.
Front and rear STB’s
Use poorboy alignment technique to set camber at 1 degree negative for front and rear. B14/B15 leave rear alone.
Set toe at Zero for front 1/8 in for rear. 200SX do not adjust toe in rear.
Set tire pressure to 37-8 psi front, rear at 34-5 psi. "
I am not in any way arguing here, just curious. Why are the Prokits in one of your sugested setups if they are so horibble on the street? I know why they are so bad because of my experince with Sportlines(Prokits cant be much better). I think the other members would like to get your feedback on this.
__________________
Patrick Scott
Yeah, thats a roll cage in there.
I shall call him...Mini-Me
I am curious about this too. I thought this was the "recommended" set up for street high performance driving. I did experience bottoming out problem whth this set up and I had serious understeering problem when I AutoXed and now I know this was one of the main problem.
I do AutoX every once a while, but my car is a daily driven car. I didn't want anything to affect my daily driving especially here in Utah's terrible road condition. I hope I am not the one don't want to admit my mods suck. After reading Mike's post, I know for sure my mods I have on my car suck. But when I knew that at first place, I never had paid my money to get something that suck. Oh well, I guess it's too late and there's nothing I can do unless I get the whole new set up.
Re: eibach problems....
wait a minute..
Linear Mode
