hey, I know a bit about rotors, but drums are currently very mysterious to me. I know I need new front rotors and pads currently, but my rear drums are starting to grind which I assume means I need new shoes, correct? What else do I need to replace when I'm doing the shoes?
your going to need a drum hardware kit. it consists of a bunch of little springs, washers, etc that you will need to replace when you do the drums. i warn you though, if this is your first time, be careful. it gets rough down there.
you are correct, youll need brake shoes, not pads. you will also need some grease for some parts in there.
Originally posted by azkicker0027 you don't really need a hardware kit, just clean off the springs and lubricate friction points, then check the drum for a lip and out of roundness.
Ill second that.
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Patrick Scott
Yeah, thats a roll cage in there.
I shall call him...Mini-Me
From what I've heard, drums are an absolute nightmare because of all the little parts and everything needs to kept in order.
Don't mean to get off-topic but what the hell is w/ drum brakes? It seems silly for car designers to use them, I heard it has to do w/ past technology but disc brakes seem a hell of a lot easier to design and much more effective. Someone explain?
I know, if you ask me, drums have less stopping power, are harder to change and look more expensive to build (although they prbably are not). Why do they still use then at all?
Originally posted by 1997 GA16DE I know, if you ask me, drums have less stopping power, are harder to change and look more expensive to build (although they prbably are not). Why do they still use then at all?
Drums are cheaper to build. A lot cheaper. This is because drum brakes now are mainly used in the rear of passenger vehicles, which the e-brake connects to. With drum brakes, you can connect the e-brake cable directly to the drums and use the same brake shoes that the hydraulic brakes do. WIth rear discs, you need either a separate, integrated drum within the rear disc or a second caliper to bind the brakes when the car is stopped (the latter being more common on more expensive cars). The drums themselves are also cheaper to replace, and last longer than rotors because they can be machined to a larger initial thickness (amongst other reasons).
But yeah. Drums are a pain in the ass if something goes wrong in there. Regular maintenance is ok. Anything beyond that sucks.
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Captain Slow.
Last edited by ReVerm : Sep 29th, 2003 at 10:26 AM.
also do one side at a time, so if you lose track, just look at the other side and match it up, and wear a nose mask or spray everything down with some brake cleaner, brake dust is a killer when inhaled and eventhough they say it's asbestos-free.
Fuck drums. Fuck'em! I hate them for all the reasons listed and also because I couldn't even get the cover off. Even though I'm flat broke right now, I'm going to convert.
Originally posted by Assembler Fuck drums. Fuck'em! I hate them for all the reasons listed and also because I couldn't even get the cover off. Even though I'm flat broke right now, I'm going to convert.
When you work on rear drums you have to disengage the E-brake. Once you do that, they will slip right off (If not, there's a slot somewhere where you can stick a big screwdriver and pry it off).
when i check the drums on mine i just check pad thickness , warped housings , and then i just dust them off with a brush. (which is hard to do when im not supposed to breath that stuff in)
...once i find a wrecked se-r in the junkyard again im doing a rear beam swap.
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B14 200sx: GA16DE at 15º BTDC + HS CAI + stromung cat-back + UR crank pulley + JWT S1 Cams
Cosmetics: SE-R wheels & skirts + Stillen Lip + CrystalClear Headlights & Corners + 98 Sentra Grill
Suspension: Tein Basic's + Front & Rear Strut Bar
wet the dust down with brake cleaner or so, don't let that stuff get airborne, it's a safety hazard.
and also check for rear brake lines rubbing on trailing arms, that's one of my main concerns when i did the axle swap, i want to see if this is common.
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