What all can you do to keep the factory brakes on a B13 cool? I've got some 15" rims already, Bendix pads and orielly rotors. How do some of those racing experts direct air to them? How do you keep them from warping or cracking from water on the road or rain puddles? My right front right wheel squeeks at every rotation. Gets kind of anoying after a while, squeek squeek squeek squeek. I've only had these pads and rotors on for 2,000 miles.
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Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
You could run some ducting from the front bar, cut holes in your splash guards in the wheel well's and duct the air in kinda behind the rotors... I've not had a decent look at it myself
James
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[PULSSSAR]
sr20det + bitz
Perth, Australia
http://turbo.pulsar.org.au/
You'll need to remove the splash shield for air ducting.
To have worry-free brakes, get the AD22VF calipers and rotors from the NX2000. They bolt right in after you remove the splash shield. Ask for NX2000 ABS brakes and inspect the calipers for the AD22VF stamping. AD22 rotors are slightly larger in diameter and significantly thicker than AD18 pieces. Using AD18 rotors with AD22 calipers will cause the pistons to pop out of the calipers and you will lose most of your braking ability. Figure about $225 above core charge.
I faded the stock AD18 brakes at every track event regardless of pads and fluid. I ran a two-day event after installing the AD22 parts and COULDN'T fade them. This is with no ducted air.
For the street, AD22 brakes are not really needed. Get street/race brake pads and bed them in properly. They are meant for some extreme usage, though, and tend to dust heavily.
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Bruce in Houston
'94 Nissan Sentra SE-R w/ $tuff, converting to ITA
'98 Suzuki Bandit 1200S w/ $tuff
'02 Dodge Dakota SLT 4-dr tow beast, stock!
Brake bleed interval should be in your owner's manual. Rule of thumb is every two years or any time you open the system other than at the master cylinder cover.
Speaking of which, I need to replace the Bandit's brake and clutch fluid.
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Bruce in Houston
'94 Nissan Sentra SE-R w/ $tuff, converting to ITA
'98 Suzuki Bandit 1200S w/ $tuff
'02 Dodge Dakota SLT 4-dr tow beast, stock!
Larger rotors are the obvious solution. :P BREMBO offers vented rotors which will aid brake cooling. Slotting and/or X-drilling allow off-gassing which will assist in cooling as well.
Slotted/drilled rotors are cosmetic for street use. Avoid cross-drilled rotors; the sharp edges of the holes are stress points and can lead to early cracking. Ignore rotors with chamfered holes. Yes, the chamfering removes the stress points BUT ONLY ON THE OUTSIDE FACES. The holes on the inside of the venting are still sharp-edged stress points. Racers are willing to use them because the rotors are not expected to last 100,000 miles and stress cracking is an acceptable trade-off.
The slotted rotors are less likely to crack, but again, street use won't overtax stock brakes. Just go with more aggressive pads.
If you want bigger brakes, do the inexpensive NX upgrade. If you want looks, do as GAMBLERZ suggested . This month's Car and Driver has a neat article about upgrading WRX brakes. Quite informative if you're new to the brakes game.
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Bruce in Houston
'94 Nissan Sentra SE-R w/ $tuff, converting to ITA
'98 Suzuki Bandit 1200S w/ $tuff
'02 Dodge Dakota SLT 4-dr tow beast, stock!
Last edited by bahearn : Aug 19th, 2002 at 12:09 PM.
. This month's Car and Driver has a neat article about upgrading WRX brakes. Quite informative if you're new to the brakes game.
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