trying to install drop springs..The two 17 mm bolts holding the lower end of the strut to the hub assembly are completely rusted--- tried PB blaster and liquid wrench... what else, I dont have a pneumatic /hydrualic torque wrench or any torches to heat it up... I got a quote of $250 (5.5 hours labor) to install the 4 drop springs, which is way more than I can pay... any ideas?
Did you try to use a big breaker bar? If not, get yourself a long (like 25inch) breaker bar and you will be surprized to see how easy that thing comes off... It's all about using right tools Invest $30 for good quality breaker bar. That tool is very useful (IMO)...
Good luck!!
well that and i dont know how your going to get the nut off the top mounting plate cause you need an impact wrench. you cant get a normal wrench to spin at the velocity need to take it off.
Originally posted by AznVirus well that and i dont know how your going to get the nut off the top mounting plate cause you need an impact wrench. you cant get a normal wrench to spin at the velocity need to take it off.
your nuts!!!!! if im thinking correctly you are needing to get that nut off fast cause your not using a spring compressor.... tell me im a moron and am wrong please! that is super dangerous!
your nuts!!!!! if im thinking correctly you are needing to get that nut off fast cause your not using a spring compressor.... tell me im a moron and am wrong please! that is super dangerous!
Well.. you have to take the strut off first, then use the compressor to separate the shock and spring. Yeah, it's pretty dangerous to do this with no spring compressor, but you won't need the compressor until you take the strut off the vehicle.
Last edited by CarbonBlack200 : Jul 15th, 2002 at 08:51 PM.
yes sorry if i wasnt clear, let me rephrase myself, after you get the strut assembly off was what i meant. ive tried a spring compressor, but once you get the spring compressed, you wont be able to get the top mounting nut off because it spins while you wrench at it.
Have a CLOSE local shop loosen it with a impact and drive SLOWLY home and finish the process... Not that hard.
You might not want to do this trick but I hate renting those compressors... I just loosen it to the LAST POSSIBLE thread and point it in a safe direction and let it fly... stupid, maybe but it works.
definately try the breaker bar too, you'll be surprized how much you'll be able to do with a little extra torque. BTW, The rear has one bolt on the bottom and those are twice as hard to get off as the front ones, I guarantee you. You'll definately need an impact wrench for the rear.
Originally posted by 1997 GA16DE definately try the breaker bar too, you'll be surprized how much you'll be able to do with a little extra torque. BTW, The rear has one bolt on the bottom and those are twice as hard to get off as the front ones, I guarantee you. You'll definately need an impact wrench for the rear.
i agree, i was working on it and was a pain in the ass!
Originally posted by AznVirus yes sorry if i wasnt clear, let me rephrase myself, after you get the strut assembly off was what i meant. ive tried a spring compressor, but once you get the spring compressed, you wont be able to get the top mounting nut off because it spins while you wrench at it.
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well that and i dont know how your going to get the nut off the top mounting plate cause you need an impact wrench. you cant get a normal wrench to spin at the velocity need to take it off.
It spins because the strut shaft is spinning. Its quite easy to get around this if you have the right tools, and they are not that expensive.
Usually (its been the case on every strut i've seen), the top threaded part of the shock where that nut is has been keyed or flattened at some point so you can get a wrench on it without messing up the threads. This will keep the strut shaft from spinning. Now you can use a regular open ended wrench to loosen that top nut.
Some upper spring mounts result in that top nut being inset into the mount, making it difficult to get any wrench on it. This is where you can use an offset box end wrench. The upper spring mounts on the B13s are this way.
Of course, do all of this while the spring is compressed with a good set of spring compressors. Someone mentioned you can rent them, and thats a pretty good way to go if you don't plan on using them again. However, for only $30 or so, you can pick up a very well built set at sears.
If you're having problems with rusted strut bolts, buy a good (craftsman :) 1/2" breaker bar. This combined with a pipe will give you more torque than you need. I broke loose my axle nuts that had been torqued well over 250-300 ft-lbs with it.
Another relatively cheap tool is a mapp gas torch. Around $30 or so, these are small torchs like the propane ones, but get much hotter. Be carefull about what you're heating, tho! wouldn't want to destroy a brake line or catch something else on fire.
First: the subject line of this thread is misleading.
Second: break-over bar, 1/2" drive as posted above.
Third: 17 mm socket, 1/2" drive, 6-point
Fourth: tighten first, then try to loosen, as posted above.
Fifth: what springs, what rate, how much drop? Pro-kits are too soft, Intrax are way too soft. You'll be hitting the bump stops and jarring your fillings loose. You can have lower springs or soft ride but not both.
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Bruce in Houston
'94 Nissan Sentra SE-R w/ $tuff, converting to ITA
'98 Suzuki Bandit 1200S w/ $tuff
'02 Dodge Dakota SLT 4-dr tow beast, stock!
Stuff like this is funny for me(im a tech)sometimes. You are worried about your strut being rusted to the spindle..hehe Mine are welded. You may think I am crazy, but I just dont tust camber(crash) bolts. They are not totally welded, just tacked. Very easy to grind it off when I get my coilovers(sometime). For you guys that have trouble with rusted bolts here are some tips:
1. 6 point sockets
2.If you have no air tools, use the breaker bar. Sometimes at work I have better luck breaking bolts loose with a breaker bar as opposed to my 1/2" air gun. Of course I have broke a few 1/2" breaker bars..Oh well
3.Penetrating lube(no, not the sex type.lol). I used WD-40 for a while, but the shop I work at now supplies us with PB Blaster. I am really impressed with how well it works. Remember sometimes you have to let it sit in for a while.
4. A "Hot Wrench" as it is called in the trade. Basicly any way to heat up the bolt. Be it a Mapp or Oxy-Acetlyn torch. Its also usefull some times to heat the bolt up and then dowse it with cold water the rapid contraction can help break the rust bond.
One possibilty is to go to a shop or a friend and have them break the rust with an air tool then retighten for you. Once they break the rust free you should have no problem getting it off when you get home.
When I see someone talk about taking the piston nut off with out compressing the spring first, I see someone with no head. Be it not using it when thinking about doing this, or the possible aftermath. Under no circumstances should you do this!!!
Whoever it was that posted about the flat section of the piston is right, thats what it is there for. I have broken quite a few wrenches holding that thing 6mm(GM stuff) wrenches are small, I know it sounds "hack" but I have good luck with Vise-Grips. On the plus side of all this, once you have your lowering springs in you probly wont need a compressor again due to the shorter spring leangth. I know B14 Sportlines will just about rattle in the strut when its out of the car.l
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Patrick Scott
Yeah, thats a roll cage in there.
I shall call him...Mini-Me
Originally posted by bahearn Fifth: what springs, what rate, how much drop? Pro-kits are too soft. You'll be hitting the bump stops and jarring your fillings loose.
Hmmm, I have Pro-kits and I was thinking of getting bump stops. do you think this is a bad idea? I wanted to try out autoXing
Originally posted by James Have a CLOSE local shop loosen it with a impact and drive SLOWLY home and finish the process... Not that hard.
You might not want to do this trick but I hate renting those compressors... I just loosen it to the LAST POSSIBLE thread and point it in a safe direction and let it fly... stupid, maybe but it works.
man, my dad won't even work on a cars suspention because a friend of his was killed doing that! when it comes to springs there is no safe direction!!! just keep in mind how much is a life worth? is worth that rental fee when that spring bounces off somthing then flys back and smacks you in the temple???!!!
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95 200sx timing advanced to 15*, custom cai, Stromung exaust (no cat), b&m short throw shifter, rusted out fenders, worn suspension, creaking balljoints, cracked windshield and bad cv axles. your regular hooptie that requires 92 octane.
right tool
Invest $30 for good quality breaker bar. That tool is very useful (IMO)...
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