Originally posted by 1997 GA16DE not really sure what you should tell them. If they won't do it, let some other company get your business. If they ask all that shit again, tell them all they need to know is: >"It will drive up onto the ramp no problem," >"it can be adjusted without a camber plate," and >"Set it to the specs the computer gives you, you stupid wrench monkey."
I had a the same problem... you have to take it to a performance shop because the guys at sears and those other places do it all by computer and set it to factory spec. They don't know what they are doing if the comp isn't helping them. It cost me ~50 or 60 I can't remember at a locat perf shop.
Really the only thing they can do is set the toe, with out the adjustable plate you can only do so much with the camber. Our cars aren't that bad though because the struts are very close to straight up and down so the camber isn't changed all that much. I think the geometry works out different on the back, cause mine look like they have more negative camber than the fronts but that's fine because there is no weight in the back to wear out the tires fast.
Originally posted by 2SR20DE I had a the same problem... you have to take it to a performance shop because the guys at sears and those other places do it all by computer and set it to factory spec. They don't know what they are doing if the comp isn't helping them. It cost me ~50 or 60 I can't remember at a locat perf shop.
Really the only thing they can do is set the toe, with out the adjustable plate you can only do so much with the camber. Our cars aren't that bad though because the struts are very close to straight up and down so the camber isn't changed all that much. I think the geometry works out different on the back, cause mine look like they have more negative camber than the fronts but that's fine because there is no weight in the back to wear out the tires fast.
I took mine to Sears BTW and they did it just fine, it was $60 and that's about the average cost anywhere.
The only 2 ways you can really adjust the camber is with a special lower bolt and with a camber plate. As for the rear, Camber doesn't change much unless you get into an accident. We have a solid rear bar and the suspenion hooks to that bar so basically, the camber will not change at all no matter how much you lower the car in the rear. Toe can be adjusted on the rear, but there are only 2 people in the country that have the knowledge to do it (it's a performance gain to minimise the toe-in of the rear wheels).
Originally posted by 1997 GA16DE I took mine to Sears BTW and they did it just fine, it was $60 and that's about the average cost anywhere.
The only 2 ways you can really adjust the camber is with a special lower bolt and with a camber plate. As for the rear, Camber doesn't change much unless you get into an accident. We have a solid rear bar and the suspenion hooks to that bar so basically, the camber will not change at all no matter how much you lower the car in the rear. Toe can be adjusted on the rear, but there are only 2 people in the country that have the knowledge to do it (it's a performance gain to minimise the toe-in of the rear wheels).
Right... I keep forgetting B-14... is different for B-13.... Yeah your right though... I mean really all they are doing is getting the car to roll straight. And if you lower it, at least in the front toe would be the only thing to adjust. My friend and I align it by getting two jack handles put it up against as close to the middle of the wheel, it's usually a little lower and then measure the difference from front to rear. then adjust the tie rod appropriately. We do this to have a little toe out at the track.
a guy on the SR20forums (98sr20ve) does toe adjustments to the rear bar on the B14 (he's one of the 2 I was talking about). I'd love to get my rear bar bent to 1/16" toe in or 0* toe. My car would feel awesome, I'd be able to toss it around more like a classic.
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