I'm going to be installing Goodrich SS brake lines, Powerslot rotors, and Hawk pads on the front and rear of my 99 Sentra SE-L this weekend. Anyone have any tips for me? I am mainly looking for any tips with the brake lines. Thanks.
I don't think they are. I having a problem with my first set leaking at the main line and they are supposed to be sending me a new set in 3-4 days.
By the way, the line wrench is a good idea. After doing the job, you definitely need a 10mm flare nut wrench. I bought it at Advance Auto Parts with the other brake tools. It's a pack of 3 wrenches for $9.99. A straight wrench will not get it without stripping.
I'm not sure what happened with this first set. I assume the longer lines were for the rear, but I am getting leaks at all four wheels. Supposedly the flare nut does not need to be too tight, but I am having no luck. Hopefully it is a bad set of lines and not my flare nuts that are bad. Any tips on replacing the nuts if they are bad?
It turned out the brake lines I got from Goodridge were the wrong type. The inside of the SS line where it connects to the main line was concave instead of convex. I am supposed to be getting new lines from Goodridge. We'll see if they are correct. Be sure to check your old lines and new ones before you try replacing them.
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1999 Sentra SE-L
Last edited by netsatwork : May 29th, 2003 at 12:28 PM.
Originally posted by netsatwork I'm going to be installing Goodrich SS brake lines, Powerslot rotors, and Hawk pads on the front and rear of my 99 Sentra SE-L this weekend. Anyone have any tips for me? I am mainly looking for any tips with the brake lines. Thanks.
Aside from what's already been posted about the line wrench, open your master cylinder and put saranwrap over it and then tighten the cap back on. This will (should) create a vacuum so that you can change the lines without too much fluid leaking out from your caliper. Even if none comes out, it's still a good idea to bleed the brakes afterward. Get the car up on all fours too... a lot easier than doing a corner or a side at a time! Also, if you're replacing your pads, make sure you have a c-clamp or channel locks to compress your piston in the caliper back to accomodate for the larger/thicker new pads
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kieran
93 NX2000
95 200SX SE-R w/ bolt-ons
02 Maxima SE
Originally posted by netsatwork Any tips on replacing the nuts if they are bad?
I stripped mine a while back and ordered a new set from the dealer. I don't think it was too expensive (for a dealer). The PITA though is keeping the vacuum while replacing them and then re-bleeding your system. Good luck
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kieran
93 NX2000
95 200SX SE-R w/ bolt-ons
02 Maxima SE
uh, doesn't the rear calipers, because of the parking brake, the pistons need to be turned without destroying the seal to settle it in, a screw-in type, not clamped with gigantic channel locks....or c-clamps......
Originally posted by azkicker0027 uh, doesn't the rear calipers, because of the parking brake, the pistons need to be turned without destroying the seal to settle it in, a screw-in type, not clamped with gigantic channel locks....or c-clamps......
Correct... I should've specified. For the fronts, the channel locks work. For the rears, you'll need a special Nissan tool or (much easier!) a pair of needlenose pliers to twist the piston back in
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kieran
93 NX2000
95 200SX SE-R w/ bolt-ons
02 Maxima SE
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