KA24E timing chain install instructions

isb360 · Apr 6th, 2005, 12:53 PM

Hello,

I am new to Nissans and new to the forum. I have looked through the forums before joining and find a lot of really helpful information. I am hoping to receive some help here.

I have a 1990 Stanza (KA24E) that doesn't run. A mechanic diagnosed good spark, good fuel, good compression, bad timing. Timing chain appears to have jumped enough teeth to prevent it from running, but not enough to kiss any valves. Mechanic also said 12+ hours to replace. The car has 206k miles on it and I thought it would be a good thing to try replacing the chain myself.

I bought the timing kit (gears, guides, tensioners, chain, crank seal) along with valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket. I also have the Chilton's manual, which leaves a lot to be desired.

Can anyone provide do's and don'ts, instructions, guidance, suggestions for this job before I get started? Most of my experience is wrenching domestic V-8's and Cummins diesels so this is new for me.

I'm going to get dirty this weekend, so any advice is appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

isb360 · Apr 7th, 2005, 12:23 PM

Anyone have good info?

Thanks again.

sbishop · Apr 8th, 2005, 11:36 AM

I bought a chiltons and it has step by step procedures in that.

isb360 · Apr 8th, 2005, 12:40 PM

I have the Chilton's, but I'm not thrilled with it. I was hoping someone who had gone through it already might have a link to instructions or some advice.

sbishop · Apr 8th, 2005, 12:44 PM

I hear ya, I wasn't thrilled about it, either. I asked around for something similar to what you are and was only able to get a couple responses to any hints, etc.. I also have a chiltons, and plan on using the steps in that to do mine this weekend. If you don't plan on doing yours this weekend, I'll be glad to give you any info with my experience after I complete mine.

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=90364

Good luck

isb360 · Apr 11th, 2005, 12:13 PM

Progress Update:

I got started this weekend and spent about 7 hours underneath the car in one way or another. The oil pan needs to come off to access the oil pump (which needs to be removed to get the timing chain off). In order to remove the oil pan, you need to take off: the splash shields, drop the exhaust, remove the sway bar, disconnect the two center engine mounts, remove the center member, remove teh gussets that tie the engine to the center member. So far the only things that have broken are the sway bar links which tie the sway bar to the A-arms and some of the bolts holding the splash shields on.

Finally I am ready to start removing bits and pieces up top to access the timing cover. I have sort of found TDC by using a screwdriver in the #1 cylinder. Looking at where the distributor is in relation to the actual piston TDC, it's no wonder it won't run. It's probably out by 30 degrees or more.

If anyone can give hints on how to ensure proper crank/cam timing, that would be helpful.

The one tool I wish I had -- and might buy today -- is an air ratchet. Turning a manual ratchet 1/8 of a turn each time gets really tedious when backing out all the bolts. I could easily have saved an hour or more already.

I am putting all the fasteners in labeled baby food jars to make sure they don't get mixed up. Besides, if I have parts left over at the end, I probably did something wrong.

More as I get to it.

sbishop · Apr 11th, 2005, 10:20 PM

Yeah, I found the oil pan a pita to get off as well. In fact, had I known that the oil pan was gonna be such an issue in advance, I prolly would have planned it out better.

The one thing that REALLY got me(other than the oil pan) is, there is one bolt on the timing cover in the upper top left hand corner that you can NOT see from up top, or from underneath. My cover wasn't coming off after I had the oil pan off, so I felt around from the bottom of the car feeling up top of the cover and found that bolt. It was a total pain to get off as well, maybe 2 inches of room to work with to wrench it out.

Hmm, other than that, you sound more experienced than me, so my other issues are prolly no big deal to you. Just finished mine up today, total time 24 hours. But was my first time really digging into a car like this, so a lot of that time was spent staring at the engine and getting to know it before taking stuff off so I could paint my own mental picture.

Anyhow, good luck, it's worth the work in my opinion.

izzen · Apr 11th, 2005, 10:52 PM

http://teamnse.net/yabbse/index.php

post there and theyll be able to help more im sure

isb360 · Apr 12th, 2005, 11:52 AM

Sbishop: Thanks for the heads' up on the one hidden bolt on timing cover. You've just saved me from losing any more hair. How did you verify the cam and the crank were timed correctly with respect to each other? My chain slipped a few teeth, so cam timing is out with respect to crank position right now.

Also, I notice when I wrench the motor over with a ratchet on the crank damper bolt, it turns over sort of "lumpy". I would expect that if the plugs were in and it was building and relieving compression, but not with the plugs out. Any thoughts?

scafidipro · Apr 12th, 2005, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by isb360

Sbishop: Thanks for the heads' up on the one hidden bolt on timing cover. You've just saved me from losing any more hair. How did you verify the cam and the crank were timed correctly with respect to each other? My chain slipped a few teeth, so cam timing is out with respect to crank position right now.

Also, I notice when I wrench the motor over with a ratchet on the crank damper bolt, it turns over sort of "lumpy". I would expect that if the plugs were in and it was building and relieving compression, but not with the plugs out. Any thoughts?

Be careful... Are you turning the crank with out the chain on the engine? If so, you may be hitting the valves with the pistons. The KA is an interference engine so you need to be careful. Other than that, if it just skipped a few teeth, once you get the new chain kit installed just align the cam and the crank at the TDC marks and bolt everything back up.

sbishop · Apr 12th, 2005, 02:39 PM

I didn't replace the chain. An aircraft mechanic lives next door to me who once worked on cars for 15 years before he got in aircraft. He looked at my chain and said it was in good condition so I didn't bother. I just made sure the chain stayed on while replacing the guides and tensioner.

isb360 · Apr 14th, 2005, 12:46 PM

I was turning the crank bolt to bar over the engine. I am stuck at getting the serpentine belt idler pulley off. I took off the nut, but the pulley won't slide off the end of the shaft because it hits the subframe rail. ARGH!! I am having the same problem with the PS pulley. I was going to just remove the entire PS pump/bracket assembly, but one of the bolts is partially hidden behind the idler pulley for serpentine belt, which is why I am trying to remove it.

Any suggestions other than jacking up the engine a few inches?

sbishop · Apr 14th, 2005, 08:56 PM

Yeah, I had to take the right engine mount off, and lower the engine. Both pullies came off fine, then.

no other suggestions.. sorry.

isb360 · Apr 20th, 2005, 12:49 PM

Another progress update.

Thanks for the tip about the hidden bolt on upper left of timing cover. The timing cover was very difficult to remove, and as I removed it, I saw why: the nylon guide (ALL nylon) had disintegrated and pieces of it were jammed in and around the oil pump cover. Apparently a piece had got caught between the crank gear and the bottom of the timing cover, because it cracked the oil pump cover. Believe it or not, one of the local Nissan dealers had an oil pump cover in stock for $55. Amazing.

Also, even though I had to remove the a/c compressor, I was able to grind off the top of the metal on the adjustment slot for the a/c compressor mounting bracket enough to clear the lower RH corner of the timing cover, so that I didn't have to take it off as well.

Upon closer inspection of my old oil pan, I noticed pin-sized bits of corrosion that had worked their way through from the outside to the inside of the pan. I found another pan (banged up, but solid) at a used parts place for $40.

When reassembling everything, I noted that the Chilton's maual calls for 56 lb-ft of torque for the oil pan bolts, which seemed suspicious. I can't imagine cranking down on a cork gasket with that kind of pressure. So I tightened them all the same with a 1/4" ratchet.

I am hoping to finish bolting everything back up tonight.

Total costs so far:
Timing gears/chain/tensioner kit $120
Oil pan gasket ~$12
Valve Cover gasket ~$18
bottom front motor mount ~$65
stabilizer bar connection links ~$60 for both
oil pump cover $55 new from Nissan
oil pan used from junk yard ~$40

Fingers crossed! More tomorrow.

Tim

isb360 · Apr 22nd, 2005, 01:48 PM

IT'S ALIVE!! I finished the job last night, cranked it a bit without the coil wire connected, then fired it right up. Runs great. Smooth and quiet. I did manage to forget to put the serpentine belt idler pully on before bolting engine back in place...which means I had to undo the motor mount again and loosen the PS pump mounts to get it in place, but all's well.

I was worried that I would have to time it, but it seems to be fine. Lifters were really noisy for a while until they pumped up with oil, now quiet, smooth operation!

Would I do it again? I probably could in about 1/2 to 2/3 of the time now that I know what to unbolt or not unbolt, but it was still slow and frustrating.

Last, but not least, I need a set of wiper blades and to have the tires balanced and now I am back on the road.

Thanks to those who offered advice and help. If there is anything I can do in return, please let me know.

Tim