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Old Nov 7th, 2004, 05:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
StanzaWagonLover
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1987 Stanza only starts when cold.

I posted on another thread but I think it might be a bit past tense. I'm new to the Nissan world but I really love my Stanza Wagon. It recently developed a problem where it starts just fine and runs great for a while but then starts cutting out after a bit. I was reading about problems with the distributers but I'm not sure if the parts they were talking about were the same as mine. The problem seems electrical as the Tach drops out when the problem presents itself. I have the engine with the dual spark plugs per cyl. (CA20?) I understand that there are differences between the wagon and the car as to the parts involved. Any details would be greatly appriciated.
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Old Nov 7th, 2004, 05:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
BakaSama
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I'd check the distributor cap and rotor, I've had problems with mind. Though I just cleaned the contacts, replacing would be better.

It could be a problem with the coil though, but check the distributor first.

The thing with the CA20E is that the exhaust side plugs are only used when the engine is cold and running below 4000RPM, so something you also might want to check is the coolant temp sensor (located on the back of the thermostat housing, has a green connector). And as dumb as it sounds, check and make sure the firing order of your plugs is right. I had that as a problem on my wagon, some idiot had cylinders 3 and 4 mixed up (wasn't me, I sware! ).

Also check your ECU for any codes, that might give you an ignition code or something. Might be useful.

Good luck! I can try to help some more once you get it narrowed down some more, I'm practically an expert on these cars.

Edit:
BTW, that thing a manual or auto? I LOOOOVE my 5-speed wagon, such fun to drive.

EDIT again:
It's a yellow connector, not green

Last edited by BakaSama : Nov 10th, 2004 at 07:20 PM.
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Old Nov 10th, 2004, 01:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
SPEEDO
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if it dies when it gets hot... its probably the ignition unit inside the distributor!
(the 280ZX's had the same problem,except those where on the outside) Of they are not serviced separately... distributor time, if you have the Mits distributor (no longer produced) you can use the Hitachi one, (just make sure to get the Hitachi cap/rotor if it comes with out them) and you should be fine
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Old Nov 10th, 2004, 07:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
StanzaWagonLover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEEDO
if it dies when it gets hot... its probably the ignition unit inside the distributor!
(the 280ZX's had the same problem,except those where on the outside) Of they are not serviced separately... distributor time, if you have the Mits distributor (no longer produced) you can use the Hitachi one, (just make sure to get the Hitachi cap/rotor if it comes with out them) and you should be fine
It doesn't even have time to get hot. It runs great for 60 sec. and then starts to cut out. If I give it gas it trys to keep up but eventually just dies.
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Old Nov 10th, 2004, 07:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
BakaSama
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Do you get any odd sounds from the fuel pump? Might be that. Have you replaced the fuel filter?
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Old Nov 10th, 2004, 07:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
StanzaWagonLover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BakaSama
Do you get any odd sounds from the fuel pump? Might be that. Have you replaced the fuel filter?
I've replaced the fuel pump and the filter
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Old Nov 15th, 2004, 03:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
SPEEDO
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if the vehicle dies while your driving and then re-starts after it cools off, your ignition module is going out, it will eventualy get to the point where it wont start at all. common problem with the 280ZX's, Stanza sedans, Maxima's and of course the Stanza wagon.
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Old Dec 26th, 2004, 10:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
robsaari
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My '87 Stanza was doing the same thing. Pull the distributor cap and look for oil inside it. There's a bearing inside the distributor housing that also acts as an oil seal. When the bearing goes bad, it allows oil to run up the distributor shaft. The oil blocks the light slits on the the crank position disk so it doesn't know to fire.

When the engine is cold, the oil is too thick to flow past the bearing, but as it gets hotter, it thins out and starts blocking the light signals.
Unfortunately, I've never been able to find a replacement bearing, and wound up buying a remanufactured distributor ($200 - OUCH!).

See if that solves your problem.
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