"check engine" codes-help

Duane in Bakersfield · May 19th, 2004, 09:35 AM

Hello to all from the new guy. I have a '88 GXE w/auto trans, CA car, 103,000 miles. Yesterday while driving to work, the check engine light came on. The car ran no different, just the light. I checked the obvious, like the gas cap, looked for unplugged O2, etc., couldn't see anything right off the bat. I pulled the computer from under the seat to be able to see the fault lights, both the red and green blink at the same time, once slowly, twice slowly, three times fast, four times fast, five times fast, then repeats. Any ideas? TIA

KA24Tech · May 19th, 2004, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duane in Bakersfield

Hello to all from the new guy. I have a '88 GXE w/auto trans, CA car, 103,000 miles. Yesterday while driving to work, the check engine light came on. The car ran no different, just the light. I checked the obvious, like the gas cap, looked for unplugged O2, etc., couldn't see anything right off the bat. I pulled the computer from under the seat to be able to see the fault lights, both the red and green blink at the same time, once slowly, twice slowly, three times fast, four times fast, five times fast, then repeats. Any ideas? TIA

Welcome to the forum.
The red light and the green light should blink seperately. The red is the ten digit and the green is the one digit for the code with a pause between each flash of the red and green light.
But disecting the codes you gave; the two and the three = 23 idle switch or throttle valve switch open or shorted signal circuit or bad idle speed valve, the four and the five = 45 injector leak.

Double check the codes and if necessary reset the ECU for the "hard codes"

If you can confirm the flashes and they are different post them and I'll let you know what they are.

Troy

Duane in Bakersfield · May 20th, 2004, 01:06 AM

That's why I'm so puzzled. I knew that the lights were supposed to blink individually, one for the tens, the other for the singles. Both lights blink together on mine. I am at a loss to explain it, so I gave up and came looking for help from someone in the know. How do I go about resetting the ECU hard codes? Maybe if I do so and if the light comes on again, then I can try and figure out the codes because there won't be any history stored. I thought I had the problem figured out because the rubber boot between the air filter box and the throttle body had a crack in it. I purchased a new one and installed it, but the light is still on. If I have to, I'll take the car to a shop and have them run it on the computer, but I'm rapidly approaching the point of cost effectiveness. It's just a little car to drive to work, and I got a pretty good deal on the purchase, but 4 new tires, a window regulator, the intake boot, etc. and now I have the engine light on. Thanks so much for you help.

KA24Tech · May 20th, 2004, 01:35 PM

To erase the codes, enter the diagnostic mode then turn the selector screw fully clockwise. After the LEDs flash four times turn the selector screw fully counterclockwise. The memory should be cleared of the stored codes. Then start the car and let it warm up to normal operating temperature and check for any codes or see if the check engine light has come back on. If one is present, this is what is called a "hard code".

Troy