Hi Friends
Ive been dealing with an issue for a few months; my van
is hesitating on acceleration. When I pull off the gas then
it stops(hesitating). When it does hesitate its quite abrubt,not sluggish. Two mechanics including the Nissan dealership could not find the problem. I did the obvious, changed plugs,wires rotar, distributor. All systems go,scopes fine
even while moving on the road. I was hoping someone
might have an idea or know a fix for this.
Its a standard, 2 wheel drive,2.0 litre/Fuel Inj. basic model Multi(Canadian), Stanza wagon in the US.
Hi Friends
Ive been dealing with an issue for a few months; my van
is hesitating on acceleration. When I pull off the gas then
it stops. When it does hesitate its quite abrubt,not sluggish. Two mechanics including the Nissan dealership could not find the problem. I did the obvious, changed plugs,wires rotar, distributor. All systems go,scopes fine
even while moving on the road. I was hoping someone
might have an idea or know a fix for this.
Its a standard, 2 wheel drive,2.0 litre basic model Multi(Canadian), Stanza wagon in the US.
I think that came with the CA20S with the carb correct? I am thinking that the the carb needs to be rebuilt. The accelerator pump is probably leaking and the reason for the hesitation. The air bleeds are most likely clogged and this is the reason it stalls when you let off the gas. Make sure that the fuel filter is good and you might put a tank of premium fuel in with a can/bottle of concentrated fuel system cleaner like BG 44K. After running the tank full thru that may cure much of it but most likely the carb rebuild will be order.
Troy
__________________
SHIFT_Happiness
1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
Hi Troy
Thanks for reply, just to clarify the van has fuel injection and its
actually a 1986. I wonder if that would alter your advice? I do run
preimum gas and have inspected the fuel filter,but have not put
through a bottle of fuel-cleaner.
Hi Troy
Thanks for reply, just to clarify the van has fuel injection and its
actually a 1986. I wonder if that would alter your advice? I do run
preimum gas and have inspected the fuel filter,but have not put
through a bottle of fuel-cleaner.
Ok, I was wrong it is a CA20E, so I am thinking it is a similar problem in control of the air flow, where as the carb is a metering the fuel. I would pull the throttle body and get a spray can of carb and choke cleaner as well as a new throttle body to intake manifold gasket. Clean the throttle body by spraying the bejimminy out of it and brushing the heavy deposits out with an old tooth brush. You can do alot of the same cleaning with the throttle body still on the car but it is more thorough to me if you take it off. Ideally the best way to clean it is if you disassemble it then soak only the large metal parts in a parts cleaner like Chem Dip but you need to have the ability to reset the throttle position sensor correctly (it is a voltage measurement taken with the throttle plate closed). Also I would recommend that the throttle position sensor be checked and readjusted as well.
Troy
__________________
SHIFT_Happiness
1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
Troy I tried that, it fixed my idle problem,seems to run
smoother,however no change in the hestitation.Im thinking
here its still electrical.
Maybe I should try swapping the computer box under the drivers seat with a friends Stanza.
Fellow readers, and Troy, I solved my problem and
it was something as simple as checking the wiring harness
plugged into the computer box under the drivers seat.It
seems it was just a tad lose,and i pushed it in firmly
and presto!
Thanks for reading my post.
Scot
i need to frequent the Stanza forum more often...its actually got some activity here. And i would have said the wires cause i've knocked them loose before without knowing it and it caused problems cause the signals wouldnt' quite reach the connectors.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
btw...if you ever feel like selling your Stanza tell me...my dad and I have been looking for another one in good condition. I love em...they just look ugly is all
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
Fellow readers, and Troy, I solved my problem and
it was something as simple as checking the wiring harness
plugged into the computer box under the drivers seat.It
seems it was just a tad lose,and i pushed it in firmly
and presto!
Thanks for reading my post.
Scot
Scot--
I've got an '86 Stanza wagon/van/whateveryoucallit with the CA20E, and I've been trying for a long time to track down the frequent bucking and rough idling. I had cleaned every sensor, solenoid, and injector plug with Caig DeOxIt, replaced all of the vacuum lines (most looked original!) and it still had the problem. I apparantly had the same problem you had until I read your post and tried it out on mine. I hit the connectors on the ECU with some DeOxIt and plugged and unplugged them several times to clean the contacts up, and it runs super smooth now. Thanks!