87 Stanza in Canada

I'm stumped..... the car bogs down completely when i try to floor it... please help

JohnnyStanza

My 91 stanza does the same thing. Just replaced the plugs and fuel filter and oil change. drove it and still had problem but seems to not be as bad after it has warmed up. It will rev just fine, but when i'm starting out is when it bogs the most. Then it will kick in and seem to accelerate just fine.

87_300zxT

sounds like your mass air flow sensor(if you hav one)
Is the bogging really kicking it around 3000 rpm?
If so it is prolly the mafs. If you have one( I assume your not carbeaurated) it will be located at the end of your air intake hose, usualy plugged into the airbox. A lot of the times they will come loose and your car will seriously bog out( I had a 240sx that this occasionaly happened to). Also if they get dirty(especialy the airways) they will not work correctly. So check your mafs out and see if it is loose, you might find your prob there.

I hope I helped some!

murata

I just purchased a 92 Nissan Stanza about a month ago and noticed that it had a rough idle speed that fluxes between 800RPM & 1,000RPM. The car also boggs out at 2,000RPM for a second and then clears up as the RPM rises.

I talked to a long time friend at Autozone he told me that if the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is going bad that it can cause an electrical drop out at a certain RPM, In my case 2,000RPM. This also results in a rough idle speed. You can purchase a new one for around $40 brand new or get one from a junk yard for like 10 bucks.

Now if you are handy you can test it with an Analog Ohm Meter before blowing $40, here's how...

Standing in front of your car, with the hood up, look at the big black air filter box on the right side of the engine compartment. On the left side of the filter box is an air hose running to the engine. The TPSensor is located where the box ends and the hose begins. It's a little black box with a three wire lead running into it.

The wires should be set up like this...
-------------
l l
l TPS l
l l
--l----l----l--
Red Black Red

One of the red wires is the upscale range (open air flow) and the other is the downscale range (close air flow). So when you rev the car up one lead is hot and when the car revs down the other is hot. It's basically opening and closing the throttle's air flow control as the last guy mentioned, good call!

Place the negative ohm lead to the black wire. Place the red ohm lead on one of the red wires. While connected watch the meter and rev the engine up slowly. If the ohm meter does nothing while reving up then you are hooked up to the downscale lead. When the engine revs down the meter should move. Remember one red wire is up rev and the other is down rev to make it simple.

Once you have the lead placed on the up rev lead then your meter should move as you rev the motor and the air flow door opens.

Now, with the meter working, watch it as you rev the engine. Watch as the needle moves up the range, if it sticks or jumps in an irractic mannor as you rev the motor then your TPS is on the way out, go buy a new one!

Hope this helps you out, it did the job for me.

Now, can anyone tell me if the Stanza has self-adjusting vales? Mine are clicking at random times and someone told me that they thought it was self adjusting, any thoughts?

JJStanza

It could be any of the things already suggested and here is another one. Look at the large rubber air tube that connects the MAF to the intake. This tube may have a split in it. When you try to take off from a start or floor it the engine torques in the motor mounts and may cause the split to open up introducing un metered air. At rest or higher speeds when the engine doesn't torque as much the split will remain closed and the engine functions properly. Just a thought. It might help if you post more information about the problem.

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