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Go Back   NissanForums.com :: Nissan Forum > Nissan Models > 240SX/Silvia/S12 200SX > SR20DE/DET Engines
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SR20DE/DET Engines 1991-2002 Silvia

       
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Old Aug 5th, 2004, 05:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
Hoeboe2k
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sr20det reliability?

From what I have read, the sr20det seems like it takes boost well and is a very strong engine. However I heard the aluminum alloy block seems to warp much like any other aluminum blocks. Is this a common problem due to spirited driving? If I were to swap, I would maybe drive the car hard for about a minute and maybe drag occasionally? Would this make the block warp?
I would like to run about 400 hp on the stock internals. Using 660cc injectors, I don't know if a Supra TT pump will work but I don't see why not or else I would use something flowing approximately 250 lph, an S-afc to tune and prevent knock and detonation, electric fan, fmic, ported exhaust and either a ported internal or maybe just an external wastegate and an upgraded radiator.
I'm really just a DSM guy but at the moment I have a choice between a 240 or another AWD DSM and I would like to try something different. However, if I'm going to have to buy a new block occasionally, I rather put up with my stupid problems in the DSM 4g63 or sr20det.
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Old Aug 5th, 2004, 06:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
azRPS13
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Just wondering... Have you looked into other motors than the SR? Don't get me wrong... the SR is a great motor. But if you are worried about the aluminum block warping, why not look towards other enignes like the CA18DET or the RB20/25DET. The CA in a Inline 4 motor with a Iron block. The RB is a Inline 6 with a Iron block also... The CA drops in just as well as the SR while the RB will require some mods. The best thing is that they are all in about the same price range. Since you headed torwards the draggin I would suggest the RB. But thats my Opinion.
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Old Aug 5th, 2004, 11:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
Joel
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You will need more than a safc to get an engine to give you a relaible 400hp. Go a full aftermarket ecu.
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Old Aug 6th, 2004, 08:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
Hoeboe2k
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The more I read, the more it seems the sr20det definitely doesn't live up to it's mystique. Seems like rods and pistons is completely necessary to get 400 hp. Put that with block warping and I am very underimpressed. Not that I'm ripping on you sr guys. I'm just disappointed cause everyone makes it seem like the sr is like the king of all inline 4's.
Nah i'm not going to be dragging this thing mainly. I want it to be a handler. That is the only thing I would buy this car over another dsm. Truthfully, is 400 too much? but of course, on the occasion I would want it to show it's strength in a straight line.
IS the ca18det a stronger engine? It seems like the block would be more reliable. Does the power steering and crap swap in easy?
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Old Aug 8th, 2004, 03:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
spdracerUT
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people road race SRs for 30+ min. sessions with no probs. As long as your cooling system is up to snuff. Any motor will blow if it sees coolant temps over 260. stock rods and pistons are good for 400whp no prob. Dunno where you're reading otherwise. As you know, it's all in the tuning. Once over around 20psi, you'll be looking at a new head gasket and you'll probably want stronger head bolts and whatnot. The DET has been taken well over 500whp on stock internals. I'd say 400whp is around the point where you'd start thinking about upgrading the rods if you plan on doing track days, but I don't think it's necessary. 500whp.... well, then I'd say its probably necessary. This is my opinion based one what others have done.

Personally, I think the old turbo MR2 motor might be the most bulletproof 2.0L motor around.

Oh yeah... one more thing... it's a very good idea, I think mandatory, to replace the rod bearings when getting a DET. A good number of DETs spin rod bearings and shoot rods through the block otherwise. I think it might be from the oil changing habits (or the lack thereof) of the japanese and just from sitting around for a long time.

Last edited by spdracerUT : Aug 8th, 2004 at 03:38 AM.
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Old Aug 8th, 2004, 11:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
Hoeboe2k
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Thank you for your replies. Keep em coming, haha. I'm doing searches on this site constantly to find more about em.
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Old Aug 9th, 2004, 01:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoeboe2k
I'm just disappointed cause everyone makes it seem like the sr is like the king of all inline 4's.
I cant remember anyone on here ever saying that. Its strength is that it can be modified with boltons to support more than double its factory horsepower without many problems. Also the fundamental design of the motor means with stronger internals it can run in excess of 400hp reliably. Its also very easy to work on and has a good layout (apart from the oil filter). Because of its long production run there are lots of parts available too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoeboe2k
IS the ca18det a stronger engine? It seems like the block would be more reliable. Does the power steering and crap swap in easy?
For the life of me I cant work out why so many people base their engine choice on the block. 99% of people dont get the engine power high enough for the block material to be of any concern. Both th SR and CA are able to support 400hp.
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Old Aug 9th, 2004, 02:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
Hoeboe2k
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Oh no, i didn't mean over here. No you guys are pretty knowledgeable which is why I actually signed up for an account here as opposed to other places, haha. If you've read any car magazines, you MUST know the huge hype surrounding the sr20det and that was what I meant. You guys, most of you guys are great.
But what's wrong with the oil filter placement?

ANd about the block. Like technically, I guess it doesn't matter much. But I heard BMW's having bad waterpumps and warping the block from my friend who works at a dealership cause the waterpumps are awful. But you would always want a block that's proven to be strong even if you don't meet the maximum's of the block you know? And from what I read, ca's are great, rb's are great although hard to put in, as well as sr's.

But a big question i have is, will i get away with 400 hp without humongous rear tires in the back? Like I want this car to be a very capable handler, if possible, better than my friend's 95 m3 but I know that might be hard.

Piggyback computers won't be sufficient enough for 400? sorry i just assumed that it would be alright cause i'm used to a 4g63. Do you guys not have dataloggers to plug in to tune by knock in the sr20? I heard stand alone's are real hard to tune and get right.

Last edited by Hoeboe2k : Aug 9th, 2004 at 02:46 AM.
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Old Aug 9th, 2004, 09:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdracerUT
people road race SRs for 30+ min. sessions with no probs. As long as your cooling system is up to snuff. Any motor will blow if it sees coolant temps over 260. stock rods and pistons are good for 400whp no prob. Dunno where you're reading otherwise. As you know, it's all in the tuning. Once over around 20psi, you'll be looking at a new head gasket and you'll probably want stronger head bolts and whatnot. The DET has been taken well over 500whp on stock internals. I'd say 400whp is around the point where you'd start thinking about upgrading the rods if you plan on doing track days, but I don't think it's necessary. 500whp.... well, then I'd say its probably necessary. This is my opinion based one what others have done.

Personally, I think the old turbo MR2 motor might be the most bulletproof 2.0L motor around.

Oh yeah... one more thing... it's a very good idea, I think mandatory, to replace the rod bearings when getting a DET. A good number of DETs spin rod bearings and shoot rods through the block otherwise. I think it might be from the oil changing habits (or the lack thereof) of the japanese and just from sitting around for a long time.
hey man the sr's you know of that makes 400 hp.... are they on pump gas?
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Old Aug 9th, 2004, 09:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blur510
hey man the sr's you know of that makes 400 hp.... are they on pump gas?
I know of a guy Jay with this sick S13 that made 380whp on 93 octane on a DET. GT25R turbo at 18psi. Don't even think he had the Greddy intake manifold. 400whp should be doable on 93 octane but that's probably close to the limit.

I figure 20psi is about the absolute max boost on pump considering the EVO and Sti are right around there with similar compression ratios.
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Old Aug 10th, 2004, 11:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
Joel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoeboe2k
But what's wrong with the oil filter placement?
Its a bitch to get to. Easy fix: grex remote oil filter kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoeboe2k
ANd about the block. Like technically, I guess it doesn't matter much. But I heard BMW's having bad waterpumps and warping the block from my friend who works at a dealership cause the waterpumps are awful. But you would always want a block that's proven to be strong even if you don't meet the maximum's of the block you know? And from what I read, ca's are great, rb's are great although hard to put in, as well as sr's.
Sometimes blocks warp when they run out of coolant, oil not changed or something failed. It happens to all cars and all you can do is try to take the best care of your engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoeboe2k
But a big question i have is, will i get away with 400 hp without humongous rear tires in the back? Like I want this car to be a very capable handler, if possible, better than my friend's 95 m3 but I know that might be hard.
255's is all you can fit on an s13 anyway without widebody

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoeboe2k
Piggyback computers won't be sufficient enough for 400? sorry i just assumed that it would be alright cause i'm used to a 4g63. Do you guys not have dataloggers to plug in to tune by knock in the sr20? I heard stand alone's are real hard to tune and get right.
You can probably get it running but it will run like a pig. There are just too many tuning variables at 400 hp that a piggy back cant handle. Go for a powerfc, autronic, microtech or wolf3d or something or maybe look down the road of ecu remapping.
Tuning is usually done with a wideband o2 sensor and air/fuel ratios on a dyno
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Old Aug 11th, 2004, 01:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoeboe2k
But what's wrong with the oil filter placement?
Its a bitch to get to. Easy fix: grex remote oil filter kit.
Getting it off is the worst part. But you don't want to keep it, right? Just spear the phucker with a large screwdriver and wrench it off.

Putting the new one back in the cramped location is easier 'cos all your force is towards jamming it, not unjamming the bastard thing.
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Old Aug 14th, 2004, 05:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
mudder
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Like all of Nissan other engine designs, the SR20 is overengineered in the bottom end. Even though it's aluminum you'd have to run it out of coolant for warping to occur. If you're going to spend the money on a motor swap you may as well consider upgrading your radiator and fan to something like a Fluidyne with twin electrics. You won't break anything unless you're doing stupid stuff.
As an aside, the price of the SR's are getting progressively more expensive. Plan on $2500 for one while you can find CA18 and RB20 in the $1800 range. Supply and demand.
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Old Aug 15th, 2004, 02:21 AM   #14 (permalink)
Hoeboe2k
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where would u find sr's for like 2500? Is this a whole clip? I went to heavy throttle and it was a lot more i believe.
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Old Mar 25th, 2007, 01:09 AM   #15 (permalink)
jj_morgan
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hay can any one tell me if a completly stock sanderd det will handle 15psi?? what is the maxamin psi a stock det would take??
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