i am having my sr20det(red top) rebuilt with wiseco pistons and eagle rods witch should make the bottom end a bit stronger but i have also herd about having sleeves installed in the block.
how much does that usually cost to have done?
is it only worth doing if you are planning on using extreem amounts of boost?
with my current setup i dynoed at 329rwhp at 18psi so i dont think i need them but when i upgrade from stock cams and stock intake manifold i may want to up the high boost setting a little.
my buddy is running 28psi on a stock block bored to 88mm (which in theory makes the block walls weaker)....and 1500miles since the last rebuild, and no problems yet
im getting wiseco 9:1's and crower rods (stronger than eagles)...and i plan on running 26psi for the track...on the eagle rods, ehh, i dont know. id say maybe 22-24 tops....if you've balanced the whole bottom end, and have rebuilt the whole head (new valvetrain, heavier valve springs, better valves, titanium retainers **so you dont float a valve**)...if the whole motor's BUILT, i'd say maybe 28psi? you'd need a BIG goddam turbo for that much boost though.
Thats a lot of boost for above average compression - youd want your tuning to be spot on. SR's arent usually built to run that much boost due to the lag
i am running a t3t04e and i dont plan on changing it any time soon. i was thinking of running 22 psi for the track so i take it that should be safe? that should keep me happy untill i upgrade to hks stage one cams and a better intake manifold.
sleeving is reccomended once you start running 500+ all the time.
Not wanting to argue, but I'm just reading about a "Baby JUN stroker" (JUN is a japanese workshop in case someone doesn't know) which has been stroked out to 92x87mm (upping capacity to 2188cc) and has also had "JUN Super liners" put in "to prevent cylinder distortion, blow-by and piston scuffing at high boost and higher than normal rpm (upto 8500). The liners are also used to help overcome the SR's factory weakness which prevents reliable HP figures over 420hp from being obtained without the block cracking."
so that's under your suggested 500 by 80hp. I don't know if the extra factor is the 8500 rpm - I guess you're suggesting 500 being obtained upto the normal 7200-7500 redline?
This particular engine has been dynod at 430hp at the wheel, which means .... (does bad maths in the head) 600 odd hp at the block?
__________________ I'd rather beSideways
1975 Datsun 180B - thrashed 'n' thrown around
1992 N14 Pulsar SSS - worn into the ground wasting HSV's through the corners - Enjoy your retirement my friend 2002 Aus. S15 200SX GT (a.k.a. Silvia) - standard (until funds allow)
This particular engine has been dynod at 430hp at the wheel, which means .... (does bad maths in the head) 600 odd hp at the block?[/quote]
That's a pretty high drive train loss, i doubt it's that much. More like 515 or so at a 20% loss. Just my guess. I havn't read much more then 20% drivetrain loss on an SR20DET.
At 430 whp you're closing in on 500 at the flywheel (figuring 15% loss).
There are a couple good reasons to sleeve your block.
1. You get uniform cylinders.
2. You can run higher power levels.
3. If you break stuff it's cheaper and easier to resleeve than machine a new block.
Linear Mode
