I talked with Heavy Throttle today because I am having trouble getting my engine to start. Anyway, I thought they might be able to give me some help because I've got spark but no fuel is getting by the injectors. Doug told me to look for a series of verticle lines cast into the front of the block. When I told him they were there, he said I had a S13 blacktop type X and I would need a different ECU. After putting me on hold to talk to his boss, he got back on the line and said that I did not have a type X after all.
I have never heard of a type X before. Can anyone tell me about them?
s13 type x is also known as the kouki s13 sr20det's.
when s14 silvias came out in japan in 1995, s13 silvias production was discontinued. s14 came w/ a s14 sr20det which is slightly different from the s13 sr20det (i'm sure you know all this..just going over it again..) 180sx, which is a s13, was so popular that it's production continued after 95..until 98 i believe..don't quote me on that tho. 95+ 180sx came with s13 kouki sr20det's which are the same as s13 type x. the kouki engines are slightly different than a s13 redtop.
s13 type x is also known as the kouki s13 sr20det's.
when s14 silvias came out in japan in 1995, s13 silvias production was discontinued. s14 came w/ a s14 sr20det which is slightly different from the s13 sr20det (i'm sure you know all this..just going over it again..) 180sx, which is a s13, was so popular that it's production continued after 95..until 98 i believe..don't quote me on that tho. 95+ 180sx came with s13 kouki sr20det's which are the same as s13 type x. the kouki engines are slightly different than a s13 redtop.
ooooh....look at me....i'm soooooooo smart........go me.........but i still cant drive
I talked with Heavy Throttle today because I am having trouble getting my engine to start. Anyway, I thought they might be able to give me some help because I've got spark but no fuel is getting by the injectors. Doug told me to look for a series of verticle lines cast into the front of the block. When I told him they were there, he said I had a S13 blacktop type X and I would need a different ECU. After putting me on hold to talk to his boss, he got back on the line and said that I did not have a type X after all.
I have never heard of a type X before. Can anyone tell me about them?
All lies. Nissan produced 2 types of SR head from 1990. The finned one and the smooth one. Ive seen finned ones on 91 SR's and smooth ones on 94 SR's and vice versa. ANother one of those Nissan 'quirks'
The 'type x' motor was the later year 'blacktop' s13 SR20det in 180sx's produced from 1994 onwards. Everyone gets this motor confused with the black top s14 motor. The main difference was an update in the ECU programming and slightly different plug and wiring.
All lies. Nissan produced 2 types of SR head from 1990. The finned one and the smooth one. Ive seen finned ones on 91 SR's and smooth ones on 94 SR's and vice versa. ANother one of those Nissan 'quirks'
The 'type x' motor was the later year 'blacktop' s13 SR20det in 180sx's produced from 1994 onwards. Everyone gets this motor confused with the black top s14 motor. The main difference was an update in the ECU programming and slightly different plug and wiring.
I take it you have checked your CAS?
So, what you are saying is this is just your garden variety blacktop and I don't need a certain ECU to make it run.
Checked the CAS? Well, I turned it by hand with the power on and heard the injectors clicking one by one. I put a gauge on the fuel rail and got 50 PSI. I thought it might be 180 degress out. I tried starting it with the CAS around 180 degrees and got one big backfire. It was not 180 out. I need to make sure that I am putting this CAS in properly.
What I am doing:
Turning the engine by hand untill the two lobes for #1 cylinder are facing away from each other.
Line up the pointer to second from the left notch in pully as veiwed while standing in front of engine.
Insert CAS so that little orange dot faces up when CAS is seated against block.
Yes?
You are correct in your process, just make sure you unplug the throttle position sensor.
That is not a VVT blacktop... Do you have a straight intake manifold or curved? This should clarify what motor it is... Also send Jeff some pictures. And tell him to send you a couple ECU's to try out. They have a couple laying around.
Your next step would be to get a ECU pinout diagram and a meter that measures impedance. Put one end of the meter on the ECU harness (unplugged) and the other on the (+) of the injector. There should be a minute amount of resistance.
Also check all your grounds. I had a car at my shop that had a couple loose and corroded grounds. Ran like sh*t when it came in, cleaned both surfaces on ALL the chassis grounds and used star washers on both sides of the ring terminals, fixed all the idle/low throttle problems.
Does the motor run? Have you tried reseting the ECU?
__________________
It's pretty clear now that what looked like it might have been some kind of counterculture is, in reality, just the plain old chaos of undifferentiated weirdness.
--Jerry Garcia
You are correct in your process, just make sure you unplug the throttle position sensor.
Unplug the throttle position sensor? When? Why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forced240
That is not a VVT blacktop... Do you have a straight intake manifold or curved? This should clarify what motor it is... Also send Jeff some pictures. And tell him to send you a couple ECU's to try out. They have a couple laying around.
Straight intake manifold or curved? I am not sure exactly what part of the manifold I should be looking at to know this. I will post a picture.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forced240
Your next step would be to get a ECU pinout diagram and a meter that measures impedance. Put one end of the meter on the ECU harness (unplugged) and the other on the (+) of the injector. There should be a minute amount of resistance.
Also check all your grounds. I had a car at my shop that had a couple loose and corroded grounds. Ran like sh*t when it came in, cleaned both surfaces on ALL the chassis grounds and used star washers on both sides of the ring terminals, fixed all the idle/low throttle problems.
Does the motor run? Have you tried reseting the ECU?
No, the motor does not run. It seems like it wants to. I am getting just a little smoke out the exhaust but it seems like the fuel just isn't getting into the cylinders. I will recheck all my grounds.
Thanks for your help. Did you know this engine is not in the car? Yeah, it is in my garage. The car it is going in (1969 MGB) has no wiring for this engine so I figure I need to get this thing running first before I install it.
Disconnect the TPS harness connector. It's located on the passenger's side of the engine just above the throttle assembly.
Attach timing light.
Start engine and set timing to ** degrees BTDC.
Check the idle speed. It should read 650 RPM; If not, adjust the idle screw until you get 650 RPM.
The idle screw is located on the passenger's side of the engine near the firewall below the intake manifold.
Stop the engine.
Reconnect the TPS harness connector.
Start engine.
The idle speed should now be 700 RPM.
I hope this helps...
About identifying your engine, send Jeff some detailed pictures including the #'s on the current ECU.
It may be difficult to get the engine running with it out of the car. It may sound strange, but where are you grounding all the sensors/ecu grounds?
-hopefully not to the negative battery terminal.
SR's don't want to run when they have electrical issues. Even a weak alternator or one open ground can cause it.
Good luck!!
__________________
It's pretty clear now that what looked like it might have been some kind of counterculture is, in reality, just the plain old chaos of undifferentiated weirdness.
--Jerry Garcia
"Fully warm up engine" I wish I could but it hasn't run yet.
"weak alternator" I don't even have the belt on the alternator! I figured the thing would run off a fully charged battery. I'm from the old school where you could run a car around the block with no alternator if the battery was good or with no battery when the alternator was working properly.
I have been working on cars since I was 14 (1969) but this is my first experience with fuel injection so basically I don't know what the hell I am doing. But that is half the fun. I have seen dozens and dozens of V8 conversions on these cars and lot of V6 engines dropped in too but I don't want to do what everyone else has all ready done. So when I saw a picture of a guy in Japan who did this I knew it was possible. As far as I know he is the only person who has put this engine into an MGB.
I will get my alternator hooked up and check my grounds. I don't have any sensors grounded directly to the negitive battery post.
Your problems may be the lack of current. Fuel injection gets a mind of it's own in low current/high amperage conditions.
Try hooking up a decent battery charger, I wouldn't worry about the alternator until you at least get it started.
__________________
It's pretty clear now that what looked like it might have been some kind of counterculture is, in reality, just the plain old chaos of undifferentiated weirdness.
--Jerry Garcia
now i know that you have probably checked but when i did my swap i could tell that it was getting gas however it would not turn over went through everything and it was something simple the guy that sent my motor forgot to send my ignitor chip well it gets gas and tries to fire but it wont actually start without the ignitor hope this helps
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