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SR20DE/DET Engines 1991-2002 Silvia


       
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Old Mar 11th, 2008, 08:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
ckykm
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Idle problems(cams)

ok so i got in a wreck a couple of months ago, so my car sat for about a month without being started

first time starting it, right when i started it, the rpms shot up to 2000, then dropped to about 1200rpms, then slowly ascended up to 1800rpms and idled there

2 months later I had 264/264 cams put in, new head bolts, headgasket, springs and retainers and a new TPS was installed

After i picked it up from the shop it still idles high

took it home and turned the screw(intake manifold between 2nd and 3rd runner) all the way down and pulled the throttle cable pulley screw out as far as it would go, i actually took it out to see what happened....

i got the idle down to 950 while at running temp. and it would stay there, i then took it out for a drive and after about 5mins the idle returned to its high 1600ishrpm

i also realized running no screw at the TB would cause throttle stickage, so that is back in now

so what is going on? boost leak? o2 sensor? maf?

at idle at a stop i am running 0bar, while cruising i am pulling about -1.3bar

am i adjusting the correct screws?

also is this the correct procedure, start car up, unplug the sensor between 3rd and 4th intake runner, then adjust the TB screw, then plug it back in?

or is that for the other bolt on the intake manifold?

pictures and more info would be greatly appreciated

also how rough should i expect my idle to be with these cams?

please help, this is my DD and its driving me nuts
thanks
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Old Mar 12th, 2008, 10:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckykm View Post
ok so i got in a wreck a couple of months ago, so my car sat for about a month without being started

first time starting it, right when i started it, the rpms shot up to 2000, then dropped to about 1200rpms, then slowly ascended up to 1800rpms and idled there

2 months later I had 264/264 cams put in, new head bolts, headgasket, springs and retainers and a new TPS was installed

After i picked it up from the shop it still idles high

took it home and turned the screw(intake manifold between 2nd and 3rd runner) all the way down and pulled the throttle cable pulley screw out as far as it would go, i actually took it out to see what happened....

i got the idle down to 950 while at running temp. and it would stay there, i then took it out for a drive and after about 5mins the idle returned to its high 1600ishrpm

i also realized running no screw at the TB would cause throttle stickage, so that is back in now

so what is going on? boost leak? o2 sensor? maf?

at idle at a stop i am running 0bar, while cruising i am pulling about -1.3bar

am i adjusting the correct screws?

also is this the correct procedure, start car up, unplug the sensor between 3rd and 4th intake runner, then adjust the TB screw, then plug it back in?

or is that for the other bolt on the intake manifold?

pictures and more info would be greatly appreciated

also how rough should i expect my idle to be with these cams?

please help, this is my DD and its driving me nuts
thanks
I had this problem. you know that screw between 3 and 4 runner?. unplug that iac. i realized with mine the idle wiil go to normal when i did that. your likely cause is that the iac is stuck open. does you boost guage read vacuum? cause you should be at vacuum when at idle. but of course you might not read vacuum since your car is reved up.
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Last edited by trmn8r : Mar 12th, 2008 at 10:58 AM. Reason: im retarded
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Old Mar 12th, 2008, 08:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
rogoman
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Several things to check:
- Possible major vacuum leak
- Bad AAC valve
- Possible sticking fast idle cam
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Old Mar 14th, 2008, 07:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
ckykm
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yeah id rather not unplug the iac valve, im going to try and take it off and clean it, or just buy a new one, the mechanic at tire discounters(where i work) said unplugging that could cause the ECU to run default mode, which could cause my motor to run very lean or very rich, so i want to stear clear of that, but yeah ill check for leaks, and clean the iac valve

is the aac valve you speak of the one between the 3rd and 4th runner or is that different? these acronyms are too complicated to memorize right now

photos or diagrams would be appreciated please, i just printed off the full FSM, but its for the s14 and cant read japanese for the s13 FSM, so i dont know if what im looking for will be the same from the s14 to s13 sr20det

also what is this sticking fast idle cam you speak of? the actual camshaft?

sorry for ignorance, but electric problems are a new frontier for me

thanks for the help
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Old Mar 14th, 2008, 09:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckykm View Post
yeah id rather not unplug the iac valve, im going to try and take it off and clean it, or just buy a new one, the mechanic at tire discounters(where i work) said unplugging that could cause the ECU to run default mode, which could cause my motor to run very lean or very rich, so i want to stear clear of that, but yeah ill check for leaks, and clean the iac valve

is the aac valve you speak of the one between the 3rd and 4th runner or is that different? these acronyms are too complicated to memorize right now

photos or diagrams would be appreciated please, i just printed off the full FSM, but its for the s14 and cant read japanese for the s13 FSM, so i dont know if what im looking for will be the same from the s14 to s13 sr20det

also what is this sticking fast idle cam you speak of? the actual camshaft?

sorry for ignorance, but electric problems are a new frontier for me

thanks for the help
aac and iac are the same. as for unpluging it. i ran my car for almost 2 years with it un pluged safe mode i dont think in this car. that would most likely occur in a newer model car. you probably dont even have the boost solenoids connected for your car to even try to get into safe mode
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Old Mar 16th, 2008, 03:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
ckykm
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ok so iunplugged the aav or whatever valve, and drove it around for a couple minutes, it still idled high at around 1500rpms, but every now and then it drops to 900rpms for an idle, but once im on the gast again and then stop again it will go back up to the 1550ish idle.

i did replace vacuum lines and fixed a leak on the cold side of my intercooler, so now im pulling vacuum while idling, so thats one problem gone

so now that i have the aav unplugged and it still idles bad, does that mean my problem is not with the aav valve?

i bought some b12 chemtool to clean the fuel system, havnt done it yet, is it safe and worth it? (safe for turbocharged engines that is) also i got carb cleaner, it says dont use on fuel injected engines, but can i still use it to clean the TB and TB plate while the engine is OFF

or could it be a dirty MAF, my intake filter is pretty dirty, will replace that next
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