hey Iwas just wondering how much hp would the GT2871r get at 9psi and how much PSI would it take to get to 400hp??? and if it cant what would you suggest upgrading the turbo to???
Currently I am trying to get all the information I can get. So anything would help. Also the gt2871r comes in two common sizes the A/R .64 and .86, does the .86 really make more noticeable spool-up lag and how much more hp will the .86 get compared to the .64?
Also what is the difference between the Garrett GT25/40R and the GT2871r hp and spool up wise?
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What is the stock new pistons good for or should I upgrade to aftermarket forged pistons.
What is necessary to get 400???
Look this car will be a daily driver but it will be on a lot of track and drift events, and a few drag events.
hey Iwas just wondering how much hp would the GT2871r get at 9psi and how much PSI would it take to get to 400hp??? and if it cant what would you suggest upgrading the turbo to???
Currently I am trying to get all the information I can get. So anything would help. Also the gt2871r comes in two common sizes the A/R .64 and .86, does the .86 really make more noticeable spool-up lag and how much more hp will the .86 get compared to the .64?
Also what is the difference between the Garrett GT25/40R and the GT2871r hp and spool up wise?
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
What is the stock new pistons good for or should I upgrade to aftermarket forged pistons.
What is necessary to get 400???
Look this car will be a daily driver but it will be on a lot of track and drift events, and a few drag events.
TUNING!!!, gets the horse power, bolt ons shmolt ons. a motor with a good air fuel balance and air flow balance will produce power. think of it as getting the most efficiency out of the part you buy. for example thers no point in buying a big turbo if your running a small as intercooler or intercooler pipe. if you have a good setup youll get to 400 easy.
__________________ Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
TUNING!!!, gets the horse power, bolt ons shmolt ons. a motor with a good air fuel balance and air flow balance will produce power. think of it as getting the most efficiency out of the part you buy. for example thers no point in buying a big turbo if your running a small as intercooler or intercooler pipe. if you have a good setup youll get to 400 easy.
Hey I know you need to tune your engine and get bigger injector and bigger FMIC, ect.... But I need help on internals of the engine, what do i need to do internal wise do be able to constantly run 400hp safely with out engine detonation. For example a 3-angle valve job or 5, new cams.... This would be more helpful since if you try tunning a stock motor it is kind of point less becuase you will get only a few horses and stock ECU is already programmed the best because Nissan and other car companies have put long tests to fine tune it in Daily Driving Conditions in the stock form. Also I had some question considering the turbo. It would be very helpful if you answer as much as you know.
pistons, rods and engine balance. if you bore more than 86.5 ill recommend sleeves. as for a valve job. 3 ange 5 angle thats getting to the costly part. i would stick with original valves and just re seat the valve with some valve grinding compount. and get stronger valve springs and retainers, put some rocker arm stoppers and 400hp shouldnt be a broblem. but whats key here is to prevent any airflow bottle knecking on the intake side. for example if you have a 3 inch intercooler pipe and the throttle body is about 2 inches, you cause a bottle neck for the air. a restriction. u want to minimize that as much as possible.
__________________ Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
i will speak from my build becuase its basicly what you are looking for, altho i do have over 14k in my motor, so my build might be a little more extensive than yours but:
im running the GT2871R with .86 AR 264\264 i could go on forever but basicly im running what you are looking to run and im also running it on stock level 8.5psi for break in.
ANYHOW my motor made 238whp 235wtq at 8.5psi (about 270 crank)
i get positive boost around 1200-1500rpm and full boost around 3k-3.5k
the differences the .86ar is definitly worth it, like i said i made 238whp and 235wtq and was only taken to 6200 rpm on the dyno could have gone to stock rpm level around 7500 however didnt...but the power was still climbing so i wanna say at around stock rpm level the motor probably would have made more like 258whp and 254wtq at stock boost level.
i will tell you even at the stock level the powerband is a complete BEAST, the powerband is extremely smoothe the boost transition is SEEMLESS not that ON\OFF boost, its seemless transition
stock power levels are around 184whp i made 238whp which is a difference of 54whp from JUST being built! which is completely sick, and like i said it was still; climbing so i could have probably gotten another 20whp easy if reved higher so it actually makes more like 74whp gain.
and my motor is also build to go out of the stock rpm range, altho i wouldnt probably take it farther than 8k which could be the difference from 258whp to 270whp, but those are the kinda numbers you are looking at with a built motor.... and tuning tuning is what will make you great power, but it all comes at a cost building motor and building them corretly isnt cheap at all and takes a great deal of knowledge.
i will speak from my build becuase its basicly what you are looking for, altho i do have over 14k in my motor, so my build might be a little more extensive than yours but:
im running the GT2871R with .86 AR 264\264 i could go on forever but basicly im running what you are looking to run and im also running it on stock level 8.5psi for break in.
ANYHOW my motor made 238whp 235wtq at 8.5psi (about 270 crank)
i get positive boost around 1200-1500rpm and full boost around 3k-3.5k
the differences the .86ar is definitly worth it, like i said i made 238whp and 235wtq and was only taken to 6200 rpm on the dyno could have gone to stock rpm level around 7500 however didnt...but the power was still climbing so i wanna say at around stock rpm level the motor probably would have made more like 258whp and 254wtq at stock boost level.
i will tell you even at the stock level the powerband is a complete BEAST, the powerband is extremely smoothe the boost transition is SEEMLESS not that ON\OFF boost, its seemless transition
stock power levels are around 184whp i made 238whp which is a difference of 54whp from JUST being built! which is completely sick, and like i said it was still; climbing so i could have probably gotten another 20whp easy if reved higher so it actually makes more like 74whp gain.
and my motor is also build to go out of the stock rpm range, altho i wouldnt probably take it farther than 8k which could be the difference from 258whp to 270whp, but those are the kinda numbers you are looking at with a built motor.... and tuning tuning is what will make you great power, but it all comes at a cost building motor and building them corretly isnt cheap at all and takes a great deal of knowledge.
what kind of internals are u running?
__________________ Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
ported and polished head
5 angle valve job
Wiseco Pistons 8:8:1 compression ratio
Eagle Rods
1.5mm Cometic Metal Head Gasket
All ARP studs
HKS stage 2 turbo cams
CompCam Valve Springs and retainers
Greddy Rocker Stoppers
Greddy Oil Catch Can
Unorthodox Racing 4 piece lightweight pulley set
JGY Flywheel
Nismo Automatic Fuel Pressure Regulator
JGY Fuel Rail
MSD style 72lb. injectors with harness clips
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Stage 4 clutchmasters 6 puck sprung clutch
Prothane and Place Racing Motor Mounts
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
Flexalite Dual Radiator fans
Spearco HUGE Front Mount Intercooler
Garrett GT2871r .86 A\R
Custom Manifold made by AutoLab
Custom Downpipe and 3" side exit exhaust made by AutoLab
Tial 38mm external wastegate with
Greddy Type S BOV
Intercooler Piping kit with 3 ply silicone couplers and HighBoost T-Clamps
AEM Plug and Play EMS with EUGO Wideband/AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor/AEM intake air temp. sensor.
^ thats my mod list. i really feel the motor is extrmeely strong. it could take any kinda boost level i wanna throw at it given the correct turbo..however i like the way the gt2871r spools and ts not so huge that it creates a on off boost.. like i said boost transition is SEEMLESS, and i think alot of times its hard to get that with a specific build unless you get everything to work in correllation with eachother....plus havinig it tuned with a stand alone engine managament system is also what makes the whole transition seemsless also..
personally, with only 9 psi of boost you wont come close to 400 hp. but any more and your daily driver will be a pain in the ass. just get a small turbo and do some basic mods like the threads above and you wont hit 400 but youll fly at the track. hp doesnt equal speed. if you were running that then your wheels wont be able to grip.
maybe, but i would think it would take atleast 4000 rpm's to reach that. id like to know if you could reach 19 psi without blowing up your engine. keep us posted.
i think you are asking 2 much for a daily driver much less for a multitasking car (drag,drift, and track) those take drasticly different suspention set-ups especially at 400hp out of that car. to drag you you need power to the ground tub it out narrow steers etc. for drift you want very hard suspention and low grip tires on the rear. track you want high traction in the corners and a very responsive suspention (presuming euro track not oval) not to mention how much of a challenge and expense it will be to get that kind of power from that small an engine with-out dumping it full of NOS which a lot of people do. pick what you want the car to do then go from there. Sounds like Blubird is on the right track very good performance but still manageable.
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Towing broke down cars since 1999. Including primary for local Nissan, chevy, kia, Honda, dealerships.
hey man thanks for all the information and i really am impressed with all the responds. Thank you GT2871RBLUBIRD nice build so tell us when you push the boost up to 15psi or higher and the whp and wtq. Oh yea I think the smaller GT2871r is better for the faster spool. Oh yea I dont have as much as money as you blubird on engine mods. Hey I was wondering what SR you think i should get the S14 or the S13. I just thought of getting the S14 now because it is newer and the S13 is getting old where as the S14 would likely be in a better condition but do you have information that can change my decision. This is the mods I plan to do and I had some questions on some of the mods.
This would be the first set of mods I plan on doing with the engine swap.
Walbro Pump
Nismo Engine and Tranny Mounts
ACT street and strip (372 ft/lbs)
fidanza aluminum Flywheel
Koyo Racing Radiator
Greddy Oil Pan
Greddy Profec B Spec II
Greddy Auto Turbo Timer
Greddy Cold Air Intake
Nismo FPR
Drivesaft shop Aluminum Drivshaft
B&M Short Shifter
Crcuit Sports Coolant tank
Z32 MAFS
SR20 Extreme Combo - Manifold + Outlet + Down Pipe + Test Pipe FROM MySR20.com - The ultimate store for Your SR20, 240SX, Silvia
???? What do you recommend for a better exhaust?
Greddy Ti-C Exhaust
or
Tanabe Concept G Blue
????What should the boost be set to on stock turbo and injectors?
After awhile I plan to do another set of mods with the following parts
Flex-a-light auto electric fan w/controller
Greddy R-Spec Intercooler
Greddy Type RS BOV
Greddy Pully Kit
Greddy Intake Manifold
Tomei 70mm throttle body
Power Enterprise Belts
ARP rod bolts
ARP head bolts
NISMO Pivolt Bolt
New Nissan Oil Pump
New Nissan Water Pump
Apexi Power FC (Does this give wideband info?)
Tomei 740cc
Greddy Rocker Arm Stopper
Greddy 1.2mm head gasket
Tomei Valve Springs Type-A and retainers
Tomei 264 in. /264 ex.
GT2871r
Last edited by 2high2aim : Dec 21st, 2007 at 06:31 AM.
400hp SR20DET Mod List and Turbo
Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
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