91silbug

i've got a gt2871r .86 a/r and i've done a good bit of research before i started my engine build. yeah i'm far from a master on the subject, but i consulted a lot of people that have dealt with high hp sr's and pushing stock ones to their limits. when i got back from Iraq, i picked up a redtop sr and started digging into it just learning about the motor itself and what all i had to do to get it where i wanted to be.

Mods:
full bottom end bearing replacement
new oem main seals and oil pan gasket
crower rods
cp pistons (87mm, 8.5 compression)
arp head studs
Greddy (Grex) head gasket 1.1mm
hks 264 step 2 cams
crower valvetrain (SS valves, titanium springs, and titanium retainers)
tomei rocker arm stoppers
all new oem seals and gaskets for the head
light port job done (redeck and slight port cleanup, port matched)

plus countless other little things to reassure myself of having the motor in running order for a long time.

i ran into some issues with funding and wasn't able to finish the car the way i wanted to. but at least i got everything done to the motor that needed to be done at the time. i'm also on the t25 for now, until i get my injectors and an ecu reflash.

you really just have to tear the motor down yourself or with some help. it helps out to know what's inside your motor and to be there while your motor's being built. a well-built motor takes time, research and money. this build can handle well over 500+whp and it's just mild....

p.s. i've seen builds bigger than mine pull over 400whp. then again it's all in your tuning, that also determines if your motor is gonna detonate or not.....

 

2high2aim

Glad that you made it back from Iraq and yea I did some research but i need to get some hands on information, thats the best way to know things. But I dont want to fall short in budget, so i am researching on what parts i need to get to 400. I have found quite a bit of information and I will show u a site that has a lot of information.

Engine Performance Tuning Tips.

One of the most helpful informative sites. Well anyways like I said that i have a budget of about 6,000 and I don't plan on spending anything more then that. So your thinking damn that a lot but i still got to do brakes and suspension. So anyways I made some changes in my list of parts. I plan on doing just the essentials in for my swap and seeing what is needed and wat is better. You know how you bought forged pistons you should have bought new OEM Pistons, Rings, and Rods because they have oil squirter holes which makes the life of the pistons and rings longer then forged because the oil cools down and lowers the friction.

Hope my research helps see you would save money and have a longer life. Most times if you build a race engine it needs more maintenances and a lot of down time. I dont wanna have down time so i will be doing a group of mods at once. Engine work first then suspension then interior and then exterior.

With the swap i plan to do this:
S14 SR20DET
Walbro Pump
ACT street and strip (372/lbs)
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Koyo Racing Radiator
Greddy Oil Pan
Greddy Cold Air Intake w/ Z32 MAFS
Greddy Ti-C Exhaust
SR20 Extreme Combo- Manifold, Outlet, Down Pipe, Test Pipe.

After that I will being doing some other stuff like 1.5 LSD, Coilovers, then interior this way it will be a sleeper tell everything is done.

91silbug

the cp pistons have pretty good oil circulation, so i'm not too worried about them. another thing i forgot to put was a spec stage 3+ clutch. i still have no tuning source and so wish i would've spent the extra $ to get at least an s-afc II.....

also, why did you choose an s14 SR? is it going into a 14 chassis?

rogoman

The SR block contains oil squirters as OEM equipment which provides the needed oil lubrication whether OEM or custom pistons/rings are used. For turbo charging where very high combustion pressures are encountered and the high possibility of detonation occurring, forged pistons offer much more strength then the OEM cast pistons.

As far as life of the rings, yes they will be less with forged pistons as compared to OEM cast pistons. This is because larger piston-to-wall clearances are needed with forged pistons because of material expansion rates.

2high2aim

How much shorter is the lifespan of it, like can the new stock handle 400hp, or am i better off going with Forged and pay more.