Hi, im new to here,
came here mainly becouse of this problem, hoping to stay for more..
the vehicle is a 96 S14 SR20DET 240SX, car has done around 60K miles, half of them with this engine and turbo.
quite a few mods, most relevent are Greddy E-01 boost conroller, low boost is set to 0.7Bar, that is how i drive it daily, apexi induction kit, cold NGK iridium plugs, XS power EQUAL TUBULAR MANIFOLD, hks exhaust+catback, apexi torbo downpipe.
a few nights ago i stared the car up and knew something was wrong, simptomes:
-car sounds strange more like a boxer engine
-revs arn't steady while idlle, between 800~1000 (usually steady on 900)
-car lost allot of power on low revs so its tuff to get it off the line!
-when the turbo kicks in (stock BTW) it boosts up but cant keep a steady boost, it sounds and goes awefull
-car dosnt overheat, no warning lights...
1. Who did the mods? You or a shop?
2. How long ago were the mods done?
3. Was your car running well since that time?
First things first- I would check the basics
4. Does your ECU have any error codes? (if you don't know how to check this.. search. There are lots of threads on this)
5. Are you getting spark on all 4 cylinders? Sounds as though you have a miss.
check you intercooler piping it might be loose. if thats all ok you might have a bad bov. but make sure you pinpoint test starting at the intercooler piping
__________________ Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
You may be dealing with more than one problem, so the first thing is to check ECU codes.
You can check out a procedure here http://forums.********.com/zerothread/60332 that will work for your car. Basically you find the consult port kind of looks like ======= plug and it should be behind the drivers side kick panel opening (where your fuses are). It will be at the bottom somewhere. Turn your key on (but engine OFF) and bridge the two pins on the far left of the bottom row ie. _ _ ===== for two seconds. I use a paperclip in a U shape to do this. When you remove the paperclip etc and look at your dash, the engine light should be flashing a code as per the link above. You can read your codes to see what may be the problem. After you have read your codes, just turn the key off for about seconds and when you turn it back to the on position, you will be in normal operating mode.
If your boost is moving around, you may be dealing with an electrical problem on your electronic boost controller. Are you using the stock wastegate actuator? Try just connecting your boost line directly to the wastegate actuator (ie bypass your boost controller altogether) to see what boost it lets you run, and to see if that solves your boost fluctuation problem. If so I'd check all the vacuum lines to and from your controller and then adjust your controller. How does your boost level fluctuate?
For how long after you had the mods done by the shop was your car running well?
If your car sounds like its missing at idle, do a power balance test by idling your engine, and unplugging the coil harness to each spark plug one at a time to see which one doesn't make a difference to idle speed when you disconnect it.
not really sure which pins to bridge,
added some photos:
fuse box :
fuse panel itself (which fuses to bridge) :
maybe you can explane it better on the photo itself...
already turned the boost controller off, same problem...
car was runing strong for 6 months or so...
trmn8r - engine bay looks ok...
thanks allot
Last edited by Alonzo : Nov 22nd, 2006 at 09:16 AM.
Ok alonzo you have taken photos of the area involved.. excellent.
Unfortunately I am not near my car or my digital camera. Anyway the connector you want is the gray one in your first photo.. its the one on the far left of the pic which is above all your fuses.
Here is a pic from the FSM showing the CHK and IGN pins.
Here are the pins on your car (I have highlighted in yellow) you can see the pins are in 3 clusters of 4 (2 x 2) and then 2 pins by themselves on the end.
How are you measuring boost? If you are just getting a reading from the E-01 I would double check with a mechanical gauge. When you turn off the boost controller, does it fully close the solenoid valve? If you are not 100% on that I would run a direct line from boost to the wastegate actuator (ie no tee off at all). I would also check the operation of the wastegate itself by removing the hose from the actuator to the boost controller and hooking it up to a hand held bicycle pump (preferably with a gauge). You want to see that it can hold the same position when you stop pumping it. The maximum pressure you should give it is 44kpa (6psi), and by this stage it should be close to fully open. It should move smoothly throughout its full range too. To check for binding/sticking, when the engine is cold try moving the wastegate flapper by hand.
Is the engine missing at idle? if so do a power balance check as I posted above.
But before you do anything, check your ECU codes...
cheers
slows14a
There could be other error codes on your ecu (only able to be read by a workshop with vehicle diagnostics computers) which are not on the list of error codes I linked to in a previous post but before going to a workshop I would:
1. Check the wastegate flapper moves ok.
2. Do a power balance test.
If you do take it to the garage let us know what they find.
Finally got my car hooke up to a computer after eliminating any ignition faults,
computer says my air flow meter has gone bad, i was recomended to change to a z32 300zx AFM with SAFC II, which will last up to 500 BHP...
Do any of you have any other recomendations?
is there anything special about the swap or are the sensors basicly the same?
any help would be greatlly appricated...
10x in advance, alon...
__________________
The only computer i have in my car is a boost conroller...1996SilviaS14
Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
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